what does the "1-2" mean?

...got 1-2" of travel

sounds like the same issue I had when i went from 4 speed to 5 speed. the orginal 4 speed rod was too short and disengaging was right down by the floor. then I tried using an old 5 speed rod from my parts car, and it was too long to fit between the fork and slave. so I shaved the 5 speed rod down little by little till it was close to 1/2 the difference in length between the 4 and 5 speed. works like a charm.

and by the way, the engage problem 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 2nd, may not just be an adjust problem... it could also be you need your tranny worked..(2nd gear syncros)?

I have the centerforce II clutch and a lightened flywheel as well.

You have the make sure that the throut bearing collar and clutch fork are a set. There are certain clutch forks that you can't mix with other bearing collars. So if you are trying use an early 4 speed clutch fork with a later bearing collar, the clutch may not fully disengage.

When I first put my turbo car together I had a similar problem, but much worse than yours. I couldn't drive it at all because the clutch wouldn't disengage.

Pete

Ok there has been some good info spouted in this thread, but IMHO all of you have put the cart before the horse. Yes, the TO collar needs to match the pressure plate hieght. Yes, you should bleed it properly. Yes, you can use a early clutch fork in a late tranny. But what has to be done before all of that is to set the bloody pedal height, esp with a CFII. If the pedal height is too short, obviously the clutch will not disengage, hoever on a CFII if it is too tall, the clutch will disengage then re-engage as the TO bearing pushes thru the spring fingers. It is hard to describe how it does this, but trust me on this one, SET THE PEDAL HEIGHT FIRST. The service manuals describe rather well how to do this as well as give the actual number.

I'll second the pedal height thing. I just finished my auto to 4 speed swap. Installed the pedals the weekend before the actual swap, and adjusted the pedal height right then, before anything other than the pedals and master cylinder were in the car. For a series 1 car like mine, the FSM states the face of the pedal should be 8" (+ or - a touch) from the floor.