can someone give me a quick walkthru on how to use this! after swap am having a "desieling" "/"After Run" issue and want to eliminate carbs as prob and also verifiy they are set correctly, appears to be running a bit Rich.

Should have stated trip weber setup!

Assuming that the linkage is set correctly...

Start car, place flow meter over a stack on the rear carb, adjust the center inlet so that the ball is at one of the marks in the tube, move to the other carbs and see where the ball is using the first setting as a referance. Depending upon the linkage setup you have make minor adjustments so that all carbs flow at the same mark. That's the basics.

Run on is usually because of rich settings or an idle speed that is too high.

Here are some good links on webbers, jetting and adjustments.

http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/rasorcom.htm

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93343

Thanks LanceM, will do the reading first, do have the weber instructions for setup that I downloaded!

Hi TBK1,

this is a Syncrotester. It's purpose is to make the air flow equal at all your carbs.You have to take off the air filter and let the engine run until you have astable idle.Pressthe syncrotester at No. 1 horn and turn the inner circle until the small ball is in the middle of that upright positioned glasstube. Now press the tester on the next horn and slow down or speed up the idle for that horn/carb until the ball is in the middle, too. This means both carbs now breathe the same amount of air. This does not mean that the amount of fuerl is the same! ONe carb can still be richer than the other. To make the fuel equal you there are other skrews, for instance the "wheel" underneath the SU carbs. Here you can work with a Colourtune or you look at the sparks.A black spark means that this carb is too rich , so make it leaner. Drive some miles and look again, adjust the mixture, drive again, adjust the mixture until all sparks look the same. Maybe you have to synchronize the air flow in between, too, because there is an inter-influence.

Good luck. (Great help you can have from the ZTherapy Video)

Rolf

With SUs you want to test the airflow while the car is warmed up. I am not sure if it's the same for Webbs.

havent tried to adjust them yet, running Techron thru the system right noe to clean things up, engine been sitting for 2 years. seems to be running quite spirited tho, might have to add a return spring to the linage doesnt always return to correct idle!

I was always under the impression that "dieseling" (engine sputtering after engine shutdown) was more a factor of the timing being off (too retarded) than rich carbs. Have your checked your timing? As a kid (teen) back in the 70's, this was a very common problem as we had to de-tune plenty of 60's - early 70's high compression V-8's when high octane gas started to dissappear and detonation ping was rampant. Retarding the timing would cure the "pinging" but mileage and performance would suffer, and dieseling would occur if you retarded the timing too much.

My thoughts also, just adjusted carbs and the prob is not as bad but still happens, timing set to 20BTDC witha unilite gonna play with diff settings eventually!.

was reading a post by napabill at hybryd (ex - webber engineer) and stated that after you set the idle speed screw so that the throttle plate is in the correct position , you only adjust the mixture screw to acheive proper idle! I've done this and runns good but if thats the case what do you adjust to sync the carbs air flow, no effect with the mixture screw!mine are off abit (alot)