Well here's what I found when I did the test. I had about four and half volt reading at the coil when key was in the run position, which jumped to nearly double that when cranking. Most of the time when I returned the key to the run postion it fell back to 4.8 volts, but a couple of times it read 11 volts.

Then I ran a wire( actually my test light lead) from the terminal posts on the ballast resistor. I got exactly the same readings, and i also noticed that occaisonally when I returned the key to the on position, that the test light would go off, instead of on, as it was most of the time. Any ideas what this could indicate?

Bad ballast resistor? problem with ignition switch/key?

Nothing wrong?

OK, well for those of you still following my progress, my mechanic now says I should run a lead from the positive battery cable to the wire that goes from the ballast resistor to the coil. Then try to start. He says I should have seen closer to twelve volts on the test I did, but feels we will be able to start with the jump. He thinks the problem is either the ballast resistor or the ignition switch.

OK Feel free to comment.

BTW, Ive really only known this mechanic fellow about a year. Again he owned a few 240-Z's in the past before he began collecting Studebakers. He actually drove out of town to my place twice now from his shop to help diagnose, and tried towing the car for a compression start once (didnt work, spark too weak), But he hasnt charged me anything. real cool guy.

Based on everything you describe, it sounds like your mechanic is providing you with good info. Since the ballast resistor is probably going to be cheaper to replace than the ihnition switch, I would start there. I recommend doing a seach here on the board to look for alternative to stock, depending on availablilty and pricing.

OK well i had no luck with starting or getting increased voltage by that following proceeedure. But because our club is so cool and has posted the schematic for the 71 ignition circuit I realize i must have made a major FU.

I was told to look at the wire going to the positive side of the coil from the ballast resisitor. I saw a black with white wire on the positive, and saw a black with white wire on the resistor, so i put a line from the positive battery to that. Nothing, and still low voltage readout. But now that i see the schematic, it looks like the black/white wire on the resisitor goes back to the ignition switch. The green/white from the resistor goes to the tach, then to the black and white on the coil. I guess that is the one I should have tried?? Hopefully i didnt fry anything!

Thats what I get taking directions from someone over the phone.