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Lesson’s Learned – Installing New Weatherstrip, Adjusting Valve Lash...


Sean240Z

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My wife and kids were gone for the last two weeks, so I spent that time working on my 1973 240Z. Over the two weeks, I removed the old and installed all new weatherstrip (Precision Weather Strip Kit from Motorsport Auto), had my first experience with POR-15, adjusted my valve lash, changed my oil, lubed the chassis and installed one of Dave’s (aka “Zs-ondabrain”) headlight harnesses.

I thought I’d summarize a few of my lessons learned as they may be useful to some of you out there.

1. Weatherstrip - The biggest pain with installing new w/s is removing the old w/s and adhesive. My wife has a heat gun which was a big help for softening the old rubber and adhesive. I also sharpened the end of an old acrylic toothbrush to act as a scraper to remove adhesive without scratching the paint.

After removing the w/s, there were a few spots (under the rear hatch inner w/s and under the door kick plate) which had some rust. I scraped the rusty area and used some POR-15 (Metal Ready then POR-15) on those spots. The POR-15 works really well. I was very pleased with the results.

The door w/s that comes in the w/s kit from Motosports Auto did not include the strip that goes between the rain gutter and the main w/r. I had to cut this section from the old w/s, clean it up and re-install it. Also the right and left door w/s is identical, so the join on the passenger side is in the stock location (i.e. under the scuff plate), while on the driver’s side the join is up beside the dash.

After installing the new w/s, it was definitely more difficult to close the doors. As suggested in this forum, I used spray silicone on the door and w/s (on the door side and under the w/s flap). After a few re-applications of the silicone and a couple of days, the doors close nicely with just a little more force than required with the old worn out w/s. Again, this was installed in my ’73 240Z. Overall, I was very pleased with the Motorsports Auto (i.e. Precision) w/s kit.

2. Adjusting Valve Lash – I have a Schneider Stage II Camshaft and kit installed in my L28. I’d adjusted the valve lash previously but decided to research the procedure through this website. The following link was very useful regarding the “fit no-fit” method and the suggestion to use a 17mm crow’s foot socket on my torque wrench (http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1803105&uid=786489&members=1). I did the adjustments cold as I was out of practice. The valve lash adjustment went very well though I did learn two important lessons:

Lesson #1: I removed the spark plugs and used a socket and wrench on the crank pulley bolt to turn the engine over. After I had finished adjusting the valves, I was eager to sample my handy work and … forgot to remove the socket and wrench from the crank bolt before I cranked the engine! Doh!!! That was pretty stupid! Fortunately, there was no damage as the wrench fell off when the crank pulley nut backed all the way off.

Lesson #2: After I finished adjusting the valve lash, I took my Z for a maintenance test drive. It was awesome, the valve train was significantly quieter; however, about a mile from my home, a valve started ticking and it got worse and worse. I limped home @ 1,000 rpm dreading what I would find. I pulled into the garage and pulled the valve cover. I found that for the third exhaust valve (I think that was the one) from the rear of the engine, the 17mm lock nut had backed off and the valve lash was huge. I had used my torque wrench to tighten the 17mm lock nut to 40 ft lbs and couldn’t understand how the nut could have backed off. Upon closer inspection, I noted that just to the left of that exhaust valve is a head bolt. With two wrenches in the tight space around that valve, I did not notice that the 17mm crow’s foot socket had contacted the head bolt and stopped me from tightening the 17mm nut to 40 ft lbs. Though my torque wrench clicked indicating 40 ft lbs, the nut was loose. I readjusted the valve lash, buttoned everything up and fortunately, there was no damage.

3. Dave’s (aka “Zs-ondabrain”) Headlight Harness - What can I say? Awesome craftsmanship, easy installation and improved headlight brightness. Previously, I had replaced my old melted fuse box with the replacement from Motorsports Auto with modern blade fuses (pricey but worth it IMO) and noted an improvement in the brightness of the headlights. Given the improvements I’d already seen in the performance of my headlights I wasn’t sure I’d notice an improvement in my headlight brightness with Dave’s Harness. With Dave’s harness installed, the headlights were even brighter and on par with any new car’s system. I recommend this upgrade to everyone.

Anyway, it was a busy but rewarding two weeks. I’m just waiting for my new dash cover and door window channel (to stop the windows from rattling) to arrive so that I can install them.

Cheers,

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Also the right and left door w/s is identical, so the join on the passenger side is in the stock location (i.e. under the scuff plate), while on the driver’s side the join is up beside the dash.

Strange. I specifically recall that the Precision kit I got from MSA came with two left door seals even though one of them was labeled for the right door. I ended up returning the wrong one and getting the proper replacement. I didn't think it was even possible to install on the wrong side.

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MikeW,

I guess I probably got two right door seals then (probably the one that was missing from your kit!). As in your case, one bag was labeled for the right door and the other (incorrectly) for the left. I just flipped it around and it installed fine, except for the aforementioned join at the dash instead of under the skuff plate.

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Good to hear that everything worked out. I just spent this past weekend doing a little work on the Z my self. One of these tasks included installing another weatherstrip on my drivers door (my 3rd one). I installed the Precision weatherstrip, the one with the attached welting. Is this the one you used?

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