Best rust stopper P0R15 or Eastwoods?

[bobc]

Does anyone have an opinion on the best rust stopper out there? Seems POR15 has a good reputation, but I recently received a new Eastwood catalog and their stuff looks pretty good to. Thought I would see if anyones had success or experience with either.

Thanks.

Bob

[Zak's Z]

Hi:

I used POR-15 on my inner fenders, under floor pans, and I plan on using it on the engine bay, and rest of the underside. Its GREAT stuff. look at my gallery and you can see pics. I even painted over a screw hole, and when I went to poke it with a pick, I had to use a hammer to get thru it. Its hard.

I dont know about Eastwood, but I like POR. Read about it on the website, because you should prep the metal, and you have to topcoat it if it will be exposed to light, or if youre going to paint over it, etc.

Escanlon, among others has posted several threads here about it, and thats what got me turned onto it. Do a search and you'll find lots of opinions on it here.

Zak

[EScanlon]

Oh boy! Now I'm on the spot.....

Bob, trying to determine the best product amongst the literally hundreds of products out there, all claiming to be the best, is literally a fool's errand. That is, if you go by THEIR claims. You'll find that they're ALL unsurpassed, amazing, unbelievable and unbeatable.

The other problem is that you either wait ten or more years between application and determination of product's worthiness or you go by what other's have done. And then you have to decide.

I've not worked with Eastwood's product. That being said, I'll state that I've no doubt that their product IS good, if only because they don't just pick any product to put in their catalog. If memory serves, they used to carry POR YEARS ago, and dropped it when POR began distributing on their own, and not relying on the exclusivity that Eastwood may or may not have required.

Again, that's pure vague memory....and I'll gladly rescind it if proved incorrect.

However, I HAVE worked with POR, and compared to all the different products that I've tried over the years (25 or so), I would say that it is one of, if not the BEST of, all the PROVEABLY effective products out there.

Much of rust protection is simply how well the paint adhere's to metal. Metal does not willingly accept a paint coating, and in fact you have to use a special coating that etches onto the metal and then bonds onto that etching. That's why you use an etching primer as your base, and then your color paint or another coat of a fill primer. But they all start out with the etching primer.

POR applies over a surface that's been degreased (Marine Clean) and then etched (Metal Ready). Once you apply it, it literally becomes FUSED to the surface. This is where I can give you two examples of how strongly this stuff adheres.

I bought a pair of replacement fuel tank straps from a boneyard. Since the originals were still on the car, I cleaned and prepped the new ones, and when the tank was removed for it's coating of POR Fuel Tank (the original reason I'd even looked into the product line), simply put the old ones to the side.

Weeks later, when I was replacing the tank, I placed, bent and otherwise fitted the "new" tank straps to their task. They were the wrong length, so I figured I had installed them backwards, and removed and straightened and re-bent them but this time for the other position. Still no go, because they were for a later year Z. So out they came and for plain old sh*ts and giggles I bent them in a couple spots to 180° and straightened them out.

The POR did NOT crack nor flake off.

To me that's exactly what I want.

The other item are the "oops" spills on my driveway....close to 5 years ago. They've been subjected to unobstructed UV whenever the sun shines. Now, granted, I AM in the Pacific Northwest and it does rain a lot, but we DO get some sunshine here and there. Even after repeated pressure washes the POR refuses to budge. And remember this, the floor (concrete) wasn't prepped to receive it.

Although it may be that other's would deny my "testing" (if you want to call it that), I'll also state that in the areas where I've gone back to do further work that required GRINDING the POR off......it wasn't easy to do so. This stuff literally sticks to the metal as if it were....glued on. Then when you remember that this stuff is a derivative of Super Glue, you get an idea of how tenaciously it grips.

I can relate with having to use a nail pick to punch a hole in it. I did not know that when I did my interior. As a result, I painted everything everywhere. The end result? When I tried to reinstall items onto the car I could NOT just force the screw into the hole and force it to bite into the thread forcing the paint out. It simply would NOT happen. I stripped a couple of screws. Out came the Tap and Die set and even then it wasn't easy to cut through the POR. That POR stuff is some tough sh*t!!!

Now, in reply to your implied question of "Which one is better?", I'll say....check back in about another 5 years, and we can then decide if the next check should be in another......10 or more. So far I'm extremely pleased with the results.

FWIW

Enrique

[Zak's Z]

Didnt mean to put you on the spot , but you DID put up a few detailed posts on it...

I just used POR today, and I got quite a few drops on my garage floor, guess I wont bother trying to get it off.

I cleaned the inner fender with Varsol (i read later it says dont use solvents), then I wiped it down, then used Metal-Ready, then sprayed it off with the hose (not alot), then dried it with the air compressor/heat gun/propane torch, then applied.

Can you see any problem arising from using the Varsol to clean the area first?

My car is up on jack stands, and I lied on the floor and had to paint up. My wife told me tonite I have a black spot in my hair at the back. I have a dime sized black drop that cleared my hair and soaked right onto my scalp. I'll have to wear it off, cause it wont wash out!

I also bought the Manifold Grey high heat paint they have to paint my headers, and the POR-STRIP I already sprayed some of that on the paint and it seems to let you scrape it off after.

I also (i dont work for the company!) bought some of the tie-coat primer, and applied it by brush to the inner front fenders. Its very thin going on, so you'll get some runs. I havn't sanded it down yet, but its supposed to sand easy. You need that if youre going to topcoat it with color, they say.

zak

[280z1975]

Like the others before me, I have used POR and love it. It's super tough stuff and my car is pretty much COATED inside and out with this stuff and I don't have to worry about rust if it wasn't treated.

Some photos of the POR 15 being used ....

http://gregggermer.com/photos/280z/album/During/slides/during_repairs_12%20025.html

http://gregggermer.com/photos/280z/album/During/slides/during_repairs_02_26_2006%20008.html

[ecp48]

You might also look at Rust Zone. Seems to work the same as POR15, although their site implies that it has more resistance to UV, but it comes in SPRAY CANS!! There are a lot of times the brush on is not what I need in an area I will be putting a finish coat on, but the rust zone covers much smoother due to the spray. Not to mention ease/speed of application. I use both all the time based on where it will be applied.

I've used Enrique's blow gun application of POR15 inside rockers, frame rails and the heater inlet box on my ZX. The Rust Zone spray was applied to the open (rusted the bottom away) frame rails on my 280Z before installing the new Bad Dog Frame Rails over them. Used PickleX on the raw metal of the new rails and the weld surface on the old rails. You can weld right through it, per the manufacturer.

Looked good when finished.

[EScanlon]

Zak: Not sure if the Varsol will affect the POR. Since you did use the Metal Ready to prep the metal you ~should~ be ok, but then again.....???

I'm personally not familiar with Varsol, but from your comment I presume it is some form of Wax and Grease remover or simple degreaser. As such, if it is water based, then the wash with Metal Ready should have removed any residue. If it is oil or mineral spirit based, then maybe not.

POR's Marine Clean is a STRONG degreaser. So strong that I recommend using a pair of dishwashing gloves (the thicker the better) with it. If you don't you will definitely degrease your fingers.

As far as the Tie-Coat....excellent stuff. You can also use a regular spray gun to apply this.

One of the biggest disadvantages of POR is that you either have to top coat it during it's curing process....or .... face having to sand it. Believe me, it is no joke. Sanding POR is plainly put....a b!tch. Tie-Coat on the other hand, DOES bond with the POR after it's cured, and will then allow you to wet sand smooth and apply your favorite top-coat. Beandip and I used this method in the engine compartment of his car. Looks great.

You CAN skip the Tie-Coat, but then you MUST apply your top-coat directly to the POR while it is still curing. They mention a "finger-drag" to determine if it has set enough to accept the paint. That is, it is still sticky enough to accept the paint, but not hard enough to not mix with it.

Their Fuel Tank Liner material is also an excellent product. Although the quart can is more than you need for a single tank (I did two tanks, and still had left over), I'm not sure if the Motorcycle tank size would not be enough.

FWIW

Enrique

[Dtsnlvrs]

Hey guys check this stuff out, used it on my new floor pans last year.

www.rustbullet.com

[Bruce Palmer]

Bob,

My suggestion for you would be to call and talk to Vince at Senik Paint in Costa Mesa about his input on this subject.

[Roujin]

Have you tried fish oil? Wattle make a decent product the water beads straight off the paint when it dries, but it takes a couple of days to get rid of the smell

[sblake01]

Have you tried fish oil? Wattle make a decent product the water beads straight off the paint when it dries, but it takes a couple of days to get rid of the smell

Dude, are you just trying to pump up your post count? Waking up these old threads just clutters the front page. I understand that you're fairly new here but most of this stuff has already been answered or forgotten about.