Pulling engine

[littleren]

Hi Guys,

Pulling the engine out of my 73 Z and had a couple of questions. I guess first, would you recommend I remove the intake mainfold, carburetors, valve cover, and heads before I lift the engine out? I've seen pictures where people take off pretty much everything they can from the engine before pulling it but then the Haynes manual shows them pulling it with all of these things attached. Does it really matter?

Second question. I want to pull the engine while leaving the tranny in place under the car. I was going to support the tranny and unbolt it from the engine prior to pulling it. The tranny is in good shape so I'd prefer not to have to pull it out. Does leaving it pose any difficulties and would you recommend that I pull the tranny too or am I ok leaving it in?

Kind of a restoration newbie so I appreciate your advice. Thanks in advance!

[theianmonster]

I haven't pulled a motor before, but the only thing you should have to remove is all of the hoses, motor mounts (obviously) and exhaust. I was going to pull the motor out of my '73 before I got rid of it and didn't plan on pulling anything off of the top of the motor.

[sakijo]

From experience, I feel it's best to drop the tranny. The problem is not getting the engine out, but getting it back in. It's really hard to align the engine into the trans while it's bolted into the car. It may be more work, but it's easier in the long run. I take off the intake and exhaust and pull the motor.

[240ZGL]

I pulled my 73 mill 6 months ago, I pulled both manifolds which made the job easier. Pulled the radiator too. As for the trans, I left mine in for now, I have a tie down strap hooked from the bottom of the hood lock support to the bottom of the trans. Works for me. The motor came out real easy leaving the trans behind. Oh, have a friend help you put the hood back on. Otherwise you will wind up with the 2 paint chips on the nose emblem

[Walter Moore]

I just put my engine and transmission back in yesterday.

I took them out as a unit and put them back in that way. I will confess that it was a pain to re-attach the transmission with the engine on a hoist and the transmission on my workbench, but with two people we got the job done.

I really doubt that it would have been any easier to do that in the car.

I had the intake and exaust header on when I put the engine back. I took it out with everything attached, but I haven't bought rebuilt carbs yet, so I put it back without them. When I took it out everything that was attached to the engine was pretty much worn out, so what I couldn't cut off with loping shears I used a sawsall on...

It all looks so much better now. When I find my digital camera I will post pictures.

The downside of taking out the transmission with the engine is that once you remove the drive shaft the nasty 90 weight gear oil inside will drip out everywhere as you manuver the thing out and then back in. The Hanes manual says to drain the trany first, but who reads directions?:nervous:

[speedyblue]

MAke sure you get all the wires and lines disconnected. The clutch hydraulic line will only take so much tensile force

There is always something you forget.

[grnskyline]

hey lttleren,

I have pulled the engine a couple of times, much easier as a whole unit (eng and trans). You'd also want to remove the radiator, and hood, to prevent any damage.

It is also much easier to work on the motor when it is out of the car, on a stand. No need to remove valve cover for removal either. I tended to remove the basics,lines, wires, hoses) leaving the manifolds on and just disconnect the exhaust altogether to prevent any snagging.

Also dont forget your grounding straps~!

There are some pics in my gallery of my last one.

Have fun with it.

cam

[speedyblue]

I found it was hard tilting the engine/gearbox combo to get it in and out, but at at least you know it will go back in. Trying to allign the engine up to the gearbox is a real big pain, especially if you have taken the clutch off.

[xray]

Engine removal....

FIRST RULE OF DISASSEMBLY: Take Pictures. Lotsa lotsa pictures. Your memory is not that great....

Get an engine hoist. Make SURE you get a load leveler!!!!

Drain all fluids. You're going to change them out anyway, it adds extra weight, and who needs gear oil everywhere?!?

Remove the radiator (after it's been drained.) Take off the hood.

Remove all items from the inner fenders...Battery, voltage reg, engine light, coil...you can most leave firewall components attached, but remove anything that could get snagged. Remove the fuel line before it enters the fuel rail, before or after fuel filter is up to you... Don't forget the heater hoses--they contain coolant, so place some towels under the engine bay. Disconnect the vacuum hose to the brake servo...

Disconnect throttle linkage. I pulled off the ball/socket near the firewall using a small flat-head screwdriver. Disconnect the choke cables and secure them to the firewall.

Make notes on how the wiring is attached, then disconnect engine harness from the motor itself (Alt, starter, oil press sender, Distributor, thermostat etc..) Don't forget to remove the neutral/reverse switch wires along the passenger side of the trans!

Despite your misgivings, it's easier to remove/install with the trans attached. It's a bear to muscle the inupt shaft into the rear of the motor while on your back! The load leveler makes it even easier. Loosen the trans mount bolts. Reach around the passenger side near the mount and unscrew the speedo cable. Secure it away from the center of the car. Disconnect the flex clutch hose from the hard line. Drain the hydraulic fluid....

Remove the exhaust--you can leave the ex manifold in place. Those three nuts holding the manifold to the primary exhaust have likely rusted, so lotsa lotsa Kroil/PB Blaster, maybe some heat. Loosen slowly to avoid shearing the stud. If it snaps, it probably needed replacing anyway.

Remove driveshaft by removing bolts to the diff. Shaft then pulls off the output shaft of the trans.

Loosen the motormount bolts. Your choice whether to loosen the one bolt which holds the mount to the front crossmember or the two which hold the mount to the engine mount flange.

Attach the load leveler mounting brackets to flanges on the front right (just behind the fuel pump) and rear left (just below and behind the air tube) of the cylinder head....Bring some tension on the hoist.

Remove the trans mount bolts, but keep something under it so it doesn't smack the concrete when it swings free.

Remove the motor mount bolts.

Next is a very slow and careful process. Couple inches at a time. I hoisted up until the bell housing grazed the trans tunnel, then moved forward. The up and out some more. Once the bellhousing was mostly cleared I adjusted the load leveler until it was at a nearly maximum angle. Some more up and out maneuvers.... By this point the hoist was about at maximum height, and I carefully worked the trans over the radiator support and driver's inner fender and voila--done!

I think that's about it...anyone else can feel free to chime in with stuff I forgot...Here some pics:

Good luck,

Steve

[beandip]

Hi Guys,

Pulling the engine out of my 73 Z and had a couple of questions. I guess first, would you recommend I remove the intake manifold, carburetors, valve cover, and heads before I lift the engine out? I've seen pictures where people take off pretty much everything they can from the engine before pulling it but then the Haynes manual shows them pulling it with all of these things attached. Does it really matter?

Kind of a restoration newbie so I appreciate your advice. Thanks in advance!

I pulled the engine and trans as a unit . I did remove the carbs but that was all. I did the removal and installation by my self with no help. I used a Cherry picker type of hoist . I lowered the engine down to just off the floor and removed the trans and flywheel then raised it and attached the block to the engine stand. Just take your time and watch what you are doing so you don't strike the inside of the engine bay coming out. Give your self plenty of room to maneuver . Of course the radiator and hood must be removed , remember the car will rise as the engines weight is removed . So be sure you are not hampered by a low overhead . Going back in I padded the inner fenders with a couple of blankets when I reinstalled the engine because I had just painted the whole car . Going back in I left the manifolds off , because I used headers and the fit is close . I find it much more difficult to reattach the trans to the engine when it is in the car. Especially if you have a automatic. I rented the cherry picker , I recommend a engine leveler , rent one of those also. I just use a chain but I have done this many times . It can get a little spooky having to tilt the engine and the chain must slip to do this . Use a leveler ! Gary

[a7dz]

I pulled mine out in one piece. I only took off the hoses and linkage and wiring. Everything else came out in one piece. I did use the leveler and was able to pull the engine out by myself. I will change the clutch parts and reassemble the engine trans and put it all back the same way.

[VaGuS510]

As was mentioned many times, do the engine and tranny together. I did on my Z, but I needed to. It really isn't any harder to get it in and out of a Z. I have a Datsun 510, that thing has a tinny engine bay, but believe it or not I also pull both the tranny and engine on that. I had the tranny rebuilt and put it in from the bottom. After about 45 minutes of holding the transimission 12" off the ground I managed to align the input shaft. If I had to replace a tranny again I would honestly pull the whole engine, It would probably be easier and take just as long.