Pulling engine

[littleren]

Thanks for all of the feedback guys. Sounds like I'll pull both the engine and tranny at the same time. Sounds like whether I remove manifolds etc before or after pulling isn't as important as insuring I pull tranny and engine simultaneously. I was checking my car yesterday and I'm missing the back engine lift bracket (god only knows how that happened). Anyone have one I can buy? I can't find any universal ones where the bolt is metric.

[wfl_colorado]

Resurrecting an old thread....

Anyone know what the L24 weighs w/ and w/o the tranny? I am in the market for an engine stand and wanted to know what I need.

Tx,

Bill

[xray]

GUesstimate:

Transmission: 60 lbs or so

Head: 40 lbs or so

Block and internals: 250-300? Too heavy for me to lift, for sure!

Eastwood's economy engine stand holds it with no problem. If you get the kind that attaches to the bellhousing bosses, make sure it's NOT the tripod one. Four wheels on the ground are much better....

[Walter Moore]

Do a search on the site, but if I remember it is similar to a small block V8 in total weight. According to this thread:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18438&highlight=Engine+weight

It is 350 with the head in place.

Whatever it is, it is a heavy piece of iron for such a small displacement.

Be sure to use metric grade 10.8 or 12.8 grade bolts to hold it, and the ones that attach it to the transmission are too short by the way...

(The car parts stores will call those "grade 8" bolts, because that is the SAE equivalent)

[Steve Parmley]

A couple of things to add to xrays excellent write up is of course you need to remove the shifter and its cover. Also be careful the shifter clevis doesn't hook on the firewall brakelines as you finish lifting the engine/tranny combo out. I have bent mine before. I use matching labels to mark any wires that I disconnect and label them too.

An old wide tire (without the wheel) makes a great temporary engine stand on the floor. Lower the oilpan into the center of the tire and then you can seperate the tranny from the engine so you can put it on an engine stand.

[xray]

A couple of things to add to xrays excellent write up is of course you need to remove the shifter and its cover. Also be careful the shifter clevis doesn't hook on the firewall brakelines as you finish lifting the engine/tranny combo out. I have bent mine before. I use matching labels to mark any wires that I disconnect and label them too.

An old wide tire (without the wheel) makes a great temporary engine stand on the floor. Lower the oilpan into the center of the tire and then you can seperate the tranny from the engine so you can put it on an engine stand.

Thanks for that important addition, Steve....

I also realized while browsing in harbor Freight that the $15 furniture dollies will hold a Z engine PERFECTLY with the oil pan nestled right in the hole. It also holds two transmissions, as well. Makes for easy shuffling when space is at a premium! Of course, they aren't great for working on them--just storage

[ktm]

xray, that is ingenious! I've gotta share that with others.

[kenz240z]

xray, good tip about the Harbor Freight furniture dollies! When the engine is on the dolly is there any chance it could tip over? Perhaps strapping it to the dolly might help. Having a Z engine tip over and hit your Z or your body would be a real bummer...

[chris b]

Four old head studs work well for bolting the motor on to the engine stand. They are long enough strong enough and the thread matches.

I used an old wheel barrow to move the engine around although those furniture dolies look good.

I left the gearbox in and tied it ot the bonnet catch as suggested earlier. If you use an old gear shaft to make sure that the clutch is lined up ok the engine will just slip back in - very little swearing involved. It is much quicker not having to drop the tailshaft, drain the gearbox and remove console shifter etc.