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79-81 dizzy and E12-80


rclayton12

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Does anyone have the 79-81 dizzy with the E12-80 they would be willing to sell me, or do you know where I can buy one at a decent price?? I just purchased a MSD 6a with blaster 2 coil and tach adapter and want to get the most out of it.

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I suggest adding you location to your profile. Someone in your area may be able to help you find what you're looking for or even help you get this stuff installed if you ask nice and buy the beer. :)

Check yer PMs. I sent you a list of JYs that show stock.

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Come down to Texas Stadium On the 31st(ZCCA). I'm sure there'll be someone out in the parking look with stuff to sell. I've got them on all of my Z's, and they're bulletproof! Have an extra one, but it's on my Turbo Tom engine.

'72 White Stock 4-speed restored

'72 Orange Turbo Tom auto Project

'73 Silver auto daily driver

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Come down to Texas Stadium On the 31st(ZCCA). I'm sure there'll be someone out in the parking lot with stuff to sell. I've got them on all of my Z's, and they're bulletproof!

'72 White Stock 4-speed restored

'72 Orange Turbo Tom auto Project

'73 Silver auto daily driver

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going on vacation on the 29th... Which would you prefer, zx dizzy or original 240 with pertronix ignitor??
Six of one, half dozen of the other. Either choice will be reliable and eliminate points and their maintenance. The big issue for a 240Z distributor would be how good are the shaft bushings? Because if the shaft is sloppy, the timing won't be stable, no matter how advanced an ignition you use. This may be the biggest advantage to the ZX/E12-80 combo, since those dizzies are 10 years newer, they are more likely to have acceptable shaft bushings. But if you've got a really good 240Z dizzy, the Pertronix should be just as good.

A couple of things to add - you should replace the coil no matter which setup you go with. You can get a fancy performance coil, or just use an OEM type. But you should get a new one that was designed for electronic ignition, and not to be used with a ballast resistor. (Because you'll want to eliminate the ballast resistor either way.) And if you go with the ZX dizzy, you need the ZX dizzy support bracket as well, the 240Z support won't work.

I have the ZX package on my 240Z, with a generic aftermarket coil designed for the '79-80 ZX as well. Works fine.

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going on vacation on the 29th... Which would you prefer, zx dizzy or original 240 with pertronix ignitor??

The ZX has a better triggering system than the pertronix as I understand it. I haven't seen the pertronix, but I understand it is basically like the 280Z setup where there is a gap that has to be set between the trigger wheel and the sensor. The ZX has a 6 pronged sensor, so it doesn't have to be gapped. I've only seen the gap cause a problem on a Datsun distributor once, but I have seen it happen.

The ZX has a crappy vacuum advance mechanism. You're almost guaranteed to have to fix it if you go that way.

The Z has a worse timing curve for performance. It has over 20 degrees of mechanical advance total. Especially on a performance oriented engine, getting rid of the vacuum advance is a good idea, and if you do that with the 240 distributor you really should recurve it for best power down low, where the ZX doesn't need it.

You can do it either way, and both ways work fine, but if you're the type to install a cam and triples and rev to 7000 rpm I'd go ZX because it has the better curve, you won't use the vacuum advance, and it has the preferable trigger mechanism. Also in theory the larger cap should be less prone to carbon tracking and crossfires inside the cap.

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I bought my '79 ZX ignition at a bone yard . Complete with coil and its bracket, needed because the coil is larger, cap and rotor and plug wires. $75.00 I ran the ignition for about 3 years on my L-24 . You must also get the extension the dist bolts to , this part is what is connected to the block . The 240 part will not work with the ZX dist. After about 20 years of use the vacuum advance plate will likely fail due to heat from the engine. This plate is actually two separated by ball bearings ,that allow the plate to turn advancing the timing with the vacuum . There are plastic keepers that fail and the balls fall out . This makes the vacuum advance inoperative. You just replace the plate and you are good for another 20+ years . I have been running this ignition for almost 6 yrs and this is the only problem I have had. I am running a ZX engine now with the same good results . I wouldn't run a street engine without a vacuum advance period . For a track engine it makes no difference because you are always at upper RPM.

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