1973 240Z need advice

[msmiller]

I just purchased this 1973 240Z. Looking for advice on restoring. If you have time take a look at the pictures located here http://www.canyondoggie.com/240Z.htm. Need to know things like. Should I media blast it? Do I replace rust spots with metal? Do you replace metal before media blasting? Any advice would be helpfull. Thanks

Thanks for all the input. I am located in right next to Orlando. My Z is only really bad around the battery and floors. The rear and lid has no rust at all. When I get home tonight I will post the Vin #’s for my car. Any body have a idea how much “Dunking “a car can cost? Do you have to remove all the paint first? Thanks again

[DatsunZGuy]

I took a look at the pictures. To be frank, you have a little more than a few “rust spots” to repair. :surprised Based on how much structural damage is visually evident just at the front of the vehicle, replacing with metal is a must, and the only way to do it right.

Take a look at these videos to give you some idea how much rust can be hidden in Z, and what's involved in repairing it correctly. Good soundtrack too.

http://www.voodoo-people.com/~daz/mull/wmv/

As for media blasting, use the search feature on this website. You will find a wealth of information on the subject. Part of the media blasting process is to remove all rust, which should be the first thing you do before starting a repair.

[Benderz280z]

Wow, I thought my 1977 280z was a challenge. I am not really a mechanic and I wouldn't know where to startbut I bought a book called: How to Restore your Datsun Z Car, which has many of places to get stock parts. I also got a Haynes manual, and I am getting ready to join the Georgia Z club so I could get around some "Z Heads" who probably could really help me.

[=Enigma=]

Welcome to the board.

Wow! that's actually kind of scary. Nice color How close is your VIN to mine?

Lot's of metal replacement needed on this one. You can get complete floor and quarter panels for these things, but you're probably going to have to canabalize another Z for the battery box area, or make your own. Also, the replacement floor panels don't include the firewall portions you will need so more canabalism or fabrication will be necessary here as well. I would imaging you will probably find that you will also need to replace the entire rocker assy after you dig a bit deeper.

There's a thread on here titled "Rust Support Group" or something like that which might provide some aditonal info.

And here's my Gallery pages if you need any visual references while working. http://www.jaderunner.com/Gallery/240Z

[ncz]

Mark, I'm not sure of your proximity to the Tampa area, but there is a member here (26th Z) or Chris, who had his car dunked in a rust eating solution that gets everything off the body. I have gone the normal way, strip the car, grind/cut/blast/chemical peel the rust off, weld in new metal. I have thought(while doing the above) that if started anew I would find one of the dunking guys and go that route. That way all of the areas in hard to find places that have surface rust would be taken care of. Of course it eats seam sealers and welting, etc, but those shouldn't be hard to replace. I guess I worry too much about the hat channels that support the rear deck, area over the rear fenders, etc and rust coming back there. And SE'tern cars are more prone to have rust in those areas. I also think that once this car is done(yeah right!!) I don't ever want to have to open up those areas again. Oh well, my two cents. Welcome, you're at the right place

[msmiller]

1/73 Hls30-145668

[Arne]

I don't know what the supply is like back East. Here in the West, very few people would consider trying to save a car that is that far gone unless it was a very low-VIN Series 1 car, had sentimental value, or both. Way too many better cars available for not a lot of cash out here.

[a7dz]

In the process of doing a 70 that was in just a little better shape then yours. if I had not owed this car over thirty years and it having a low vin I would of found a nicer one to start. Some days I still wish I had. There are some better cars to start out there.

[Zak's Z]

Hey,

My Z was in better shape than that one, and I still had to pay $2300 for the metal work, and $1300 for the floors/rockers/rails. You will need MORE metal than that, and more metal work it looks like. If I wasnt so far into it, I would have started with a better frame. Even with all the work I paid for, the floors are a bit off, and the door lines will need cosmetic work because things just dont line up exactly like they did before.

Zak

[msmiller]

Thanks for all the input. If had been looking for a Z. I would have researched it better. I just happened into to this one (it was my firends x-wifes), it was being stored in a barn. When I went to take a look at it... Thats all it took. It is the same color as my first one. I drove it around for three weekends before tearing it down. The car is complete except for the rust.

Well I am in to it now so lets see where it tskes me. I bought the replacement floors and front rails from Charlie Osborne. They will be here this week. I know someone with a metal shop that will cut eveything out and weild/fab everything back. I will be putting it back together. So I may have many more questions. MM:)

[george71z]

Try the Master Blaster in Orlando, @ 407-295-7796. He media-blasted my 71 some years back. He may laugh at you, given the extent of the rust, but he's an OK car guy. Try to find a copy of the Cruise News magazine. They cover all the shows in Fla., but they carry a LOT of advertising for services, esp. in Central Florida.

[beandip]

Well I am in to it now so lets see where it tskes me. I bought the replacement floors and front rails from Charlie Osborne. They will be here this week. I know someone with a metal shop that will cut eveything out and weild/fab everything back. I will be putting it back together. So I may have many more questions. MM:)

If you have the connections and the cash to donate , go for it. It will be costly for all that it needs. Listen to a7dz , he knows what he is talking about. I would forget on the restoration , it would be a waist of your time and money. Do the rust repair and all the rest but realize when you are finished the Z will be a driver . The quality of the driver is up to you . Just build it for your self. The labor costs on metal fab is costly . Real costly . All the best to you on the project , and we are here to help . Gary