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Car won't start


Darkstar

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Hey guys,

I was working on my Zed's interior the other day - I found out that it'll need a new floorpan. Anyway, After I cleaned up everything I decided to give it a ride, despite the fact it isn't in the healthiest state. As usual, I turned the key, gave it some choke, and tried to start. The car fired up, but it was running on 4 cylinders or something. After a while it ran normally, it was just as usual when I drove it. I didn't drive it fast, I thought it didn't start as usual because it was raining earlier in the morning, and it was quite colder than the day before.

The next day was sunday, and I decided to further work on it. Before that, I wanted to check how was the motor doing. Except for the fart-like noises coming from the exhaust manifold (could be a blown manifold gasket, I'll replace it with a header anyway) it looked fine, at least I thought so. I turned the key, but it simply didn't want to start. I tried to do everything, inspected the plugs and wires, checked if it leaked or made any strange noise when I cranked it. After several tries I left it as is.

Today it was exactly the same - only that it started for like half a second, then dropped the revs and stalled. I inspected the plugs again, took the air filter out to see if it doesn't have any leaves or anything inside, and tried again. After two or three tries it started, and when I gave it just a little gas it stalled. I tried again (both times I made it WITHOUT choke), and then it ran on like 3 cylinders. I checked which cylinders weren't operating, and it seemed that all three ones from the front of the engine weren't firing. After a while and several tries, I gave it some choke. It began to run quite smoothly, and I thought it ran on every cylinder. Checked everything againg, gave it some gas - everything worked correctly. I then decided to go for a ride to check if it goes ok. It did! Again, I didn't turn it over 3000RPM, even though it ran just as usual, with no strange sounds or lots of smoke coming from the exhaust.

I don't know what should I check, I am by no means a mechanic, just a Zed enthusiast. I've had my car for three weeks already, and I will eventually rebuild it. Even so, I'm worried about it, and the last thing I want to see is my car being towed away to a mechanic. What could be the problem? I think it may be the distributor, but since it ran nicely on all six cylinders after a while, I don't know if it's the spark that causes the problem. It's a '73 original euro car, and it has about 150k kms on the clock (94k miles). Any suggestions?

Best regards,

Tony.

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Check the dizzy cap, rotor and wires. Look for cracks or carbon tracks in the cap as well as corrosion at the primary and secondary terminals. Clean them or replace as necessary. You can also check the plug wires for excessive resistance with a multimeter. I don't know the procedure but I'm sure it's on the board here somewhere. Another way to see if you have leakage or bad plug wires is to run the car at night and see if you can spot any arcs emanating from the wires.

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I agree with Arne also, change the fuel filters you are going to any way , so do it now. There are screens in the ''banjo'' fittings on the carburetors . Unless a previous owner has removed them . The fitting is the connection where the fuel line attaches to the float bowl. I just mention this because you may not be aware of them. It is not uncommon to need the choke to start the engine when it has not been run for a few hours. My Z would have a difficult time in the morning in the summer with no choke being used . The lack of engine speed is a indicator that the engine may be starving for fuel . Being the engine runs OK then will not , makes me think it is fuel and not electrical. However ?? Sounds like a good tune up is in order . Gary

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I'd vote for a fuel problem too. What type of carbs does your 73 have? What about the fuel pumps?

Good question Ed , I bet Allen T would know . I do wonder what was on the European issue early Zs had. I have seen down draft Weber's that were stock from some where . At least I was told that was so. Gary

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Thanks for the replies. My car is a hundred per cent standard euro version, which runs the Hitachi carbs. I don't know if they are flat top or round top, can't tell them apart :stupid: Anyway, it has a P30 block, E88 head, and has E41 stamped somewhere on the intake manifold. Dunno what kind of fuel pump does it have, but I suppose it's the original one. I got some original Dat parts with the car, so I don't think the last owner played in adapting parts from various other cars. Here's a picture for reference:

Carbs.jpg

The air filter cover isn't as bright as it looks in the picture, I accidentally used the camera flash... Anyway, I tried again today, and the same problem occured. After a while it ran well, just as yesterday. It seems that I'll have to take it to a mechanic earlier than I thought...

Thanks again for the replies!

Best regards,

Tony.

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You definately have the round top carbs. As shown in your picture, the front of the car to the left, look at your carbs. To the left of the left carb is the float bowl. It will have two hoses on top, one to the fuel rail and one to the air cleaner. Underneath, it will have a small hose going to the underside of the carb to the needle/seat assembly.

On a cold engine remove the three hoses, remove the 10mm nut holding the bowl to the carb. Take your bowl to a clean work area and begin to disassemble. Clean everything and reset your float level. If you have a shop manual it will become very handy. Use plenty of carb cleaner. Once you clean both bowls and have the floats set let us know how she runs.

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