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l26 in 240k


Dat 240K

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when i fisrt joined i read something about puting L28's into the k's and how you have to drill new hole for the dip stick dose this apply with the L26 as well because i have a l26 that i am planing on dropping into my k by the look of the sump on the 26/24 they look a hell of alot differant. Then i was also thinkin that if the dip sticks are located in the same spot could i just swap the sumps and the oil pick ups over? also i have no idea what the l26 is out of as it just had a single down draght carby on it.

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Isn't it all about whether the sump or deeper pickup area part of the oil pan is forward or backward of the cross member?. If it's forward then the oil pickup would be to the front of the block, and if rearward the pickup would have to be to the rear of the block. I guess the dipstick would have to follow and be above the deeper part of the sump to accurately gauge the oil depth. The Nissan L series went in quite a variety of body shapes.....just a thought.

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There are front sump and rear sump L6 engines. The pickups are different in that they mount in different locations on the bottom of the block and would require machine work to change one to the other. The rear sump engines were mainly in the S30/S130 cars while the front sump engines were in the sedans 810/910 etc. This is due to the difference in the steering set ups. I'm speaking from my experience with US cars.

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Ive checked my other engine the other day and found that not only is the dipstick located behind the oil filter in sted of being in front and the sump is not front or rear but in the midle

Craig can you tell me if your sump is in front or behind the crossmember

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  • 3 months later...

sblake is spot on; having fitted an L28T block to my 240K, (now I can't recall whether it was forward/rear of xmember) the sump/oil pickup/dipstick all needed re-fitting.

I think I've posted about this before but it's not that easy; the oil gallery for the pickup on the L28T block is located further rear/forward than the 240K block, therefore mod's to the p/up arm were necessary and had to fit nicely, deep inside the new 240K sump housing. This required some measuring & fabrication.

Then the dipstick hole through the block needs to be drilled in the correct location; bear in mind the sleave for the dipstick cannot be knocked down too far into the block as this will stop oil flow! Run the car like that and it's bye bye.

There is a guy on ozdat & who frequents this forum from time - time, I think Lurch is his alias, well his friend has either kept or sold this block, not sure.

Now if you're sump off an L26/L28 is configured like a 240K, no probs at all, straight fit. But this was an issue for me anyway...cheers

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  • 7 years later...

I am about to encounter the same problem and am considering a few options. I don't really want to redrill dipstick holes and replumb oil pickups. Option 1 would be to simply put the twin su's off the L26 on to the L24 and that's it. Option 2 would be to use one of my L24 blocks and fit the L26 crank in it. Would only really be up for main bearings, gaskets and seals?? They do fit don't they? Anyone encountered problems or thinks to watch out for when swapping cranks. Thanks Cam.

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  • 1 month later...

I am mid rebuild at the moment. Found the L26 I bought has a Camshaft Engineering Cam (old Bris company) and Ported E88 head. Am using my 240k block, sump, pistons and rods. L26 crank, heads and dome top twin su carbs. 240 pistons shaved down 110 thou to compensate for longer rod length and will almost become flat top pistons. Also have the new extractors and 2.5 inch system.I know it will never be a big power engine but the cost is very minimal and I think it should go a bit better. Going to slide it in with the 5 spd hopefully over Christmas.

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