I had bought a package off of ebay that included the msd6a, tack converter and a dizzy for a 240z. I was wondering if the dizzy I got was the elec. dizzy commonly used in the conversion. Could it be from a '79-81 zx? It doesn't have the vaccume advance attached to it, and the number on it is: D6F4-01 5505 22100N4201

-thanks

The NA ZX distributors are stamped D4K8 and D6K8. Not sure what you've got there, maybe a turbo distributor. I'm pretty sure they don't have any advance mechanism at all, the ECU does it all on that one.

In looking at the pictures you posted several days ago, it looked like you had an early 280Z or maybe even a 260Z dizzy. Someone with a parts list should be able to tell based on the number you provided. I haven't received mine yet. Just ordered the CD a few days ago.

Oh hell, just do what I did. Go get a Mallory Unilite Distributor with the Optical unit. NO MORE ADJUSTING POINTS, GAPS, DWELL, PLATES. JUST TIMING. Twist it till it runs right!

Just make sure you got the ballast resistor in or you'll fry the optical unit.

I also put in the Mallory Promaster Coil. It rocks. It also shoots 4 inch bolts of lightning!!! so be carefull. My Damn arm still hurts.

I guess the MSD 6A and tach adaptor that I put in come in handy as well.

Pictures real soon, I'm redoing my whole engine compartment.

Dave.

Here's some of the pics I spoke of earlier.

Details later

Nice job there Dave. I thought about mounting my MSD unit there as well but I wanted it closer to the battery, as well as being up a bit higher to avoid road splash and moisture from the front air inlet. The nice thing about the location you chose is that you don't need to fab a mounting bracket.

Wait till ya see what I did with the whole battery area. The picture above is just a hint.

I use a fused ditrobution block and hugged all the wires to the firewall. I unwrapped the whole engine bay wire harness and cut out all headlight wires and ran all NEW wires and intergraded my Headlight and fog light upgrade harness into it. Then completely rewrapped the whole thing.

I also ran the MSD's power wire and new alternator wires into the hengine harness. It's so much cleaner now, with out all those wires all over the place.

I completely tore everything out of the engine compartment except the block and head, repainted the block firewall and a bunch of other things. I redid all the brake and fuel lines (scotchbrite and steel wool) relocated a bunch of other misc. things and I'm 2/3's paid on my new Ceramic coated 6-into-1 header.

As you can tell, I also Red Anadized some chome and polished aluminum. Looks good so far.

Thanks for the compliment. It's kiling me, trying to get it done before the next car show. (Cruisin-to-Colby) on the 28th and 29th of this month. I already prepaid for the registration so I gotta show up.

Dave

How do you anodize chrome? Did you paint is with candy apple or something?

How do you anodize chrome? Did you paint is with candy apple or something?

Dupli-Color makes about 4 different colors. Red, Blue, Gold and I think there's a Yellow.

It comes in a spray can. Clean your crome with acetone and wipe off the residue. Spray a light coat as a primer coat. then spray another layer in a few minutes. The more you spray, the darker the coating. Finish it with an automotive Clear coat to help bring out the luster and also protect the surface a little.

On the water outlet neck, I cleaned it, then used my wire wheel on my bench to give it a hi-sheen and add depth. I sprayed brake cleaner on it to clean out the crevises then wiped it clean. The red anadizing spray made it look really deep, almost like a deep candy apple red.

I then mixed up some 2-part urethane clear coat and sprayed a few layers on to make it look deep. and the pics don't do it justice.

The spray can is about $6 bucks and goes a long way.

Ok, hijack over. Sorry Richard. Did you find a 280ZX dizzy yet?

Well if I can figure out what kind the one I bought is, then I might be able to get serious about buying one. If the one I have will not work, I will try to find one of the ZX dizzys. In order for the ZX dizzy to work at all, does the ballast resistor have to be jumped?? Also, with the ZX dizzy and the MSD 6A, I have heard that I don't even need the E12-80 module, is that true??

You don't need a ballast resistor with the electronic dist. Not sure about the use of the module (or lack of) with the MSD.