Hi Mperdue-

I don't know what the difference is between the two. Your probably correct in assuming differences in thickness based on wheel size as the geometry will differ between the two sizes. The only thing I can suggest is to call MSA and ask them what the differences are and if one of the spacers is more universal. My guess is you will need to know what size wheel you'll run before you order. Maybe you could post this information once you get it. I didn't bother asking because I knew I would go to a 15" wheel.

My understanding is that bump-steer is a problem in stock Z’s and lowering the

car, especially more than 1 inch, makes it worse. Installing spacers corrects

for the roll-center change, but does nothing for the inherent bump-steer problem.

The only thing that does correct bump-steer is to relocate the front lower control

arm to cross-member connecting point..

The following is from the “Jags That Run”V8 conversion manual:

Remove the front cross-member, remove the doublers that are spot welded to the

cross-member. Weld .060” thick steel doublers inside the cross-member, drill

14mm (9/16”) holes ¾” (center to center) above the original holes (and ¼” outward

if you want o add negative camber). Weld the original holes shut, grind flush and

re-paint. The upper inboard corners of the lower control arms will have to be grinded

to prevent them from contacting the cross-member.

Zed,

Is it possible to get a copy of the page which deals with the cross member mods?

Either email, fax or snail mail is super.

ecp48

Ed Palmer

330Providence Road

Athens, GA 30606

Is all this for really aggressive driving? I'm putting the unadjustable tokicos in too along with urethane bushings and wondering if I should start messing with suspension like this? I drive hard, but not racing hard. The car is just a daily driver.

You probably should if your using lowering springs. Your center of gravity will actually be below the driving surface without the spacers.

hi zed

Have you actually done the Jags that Run mod have read of it but never heard of anyone doing it would like to here from anyone who has and if it really works

Ragards Mick

Originally posted by ecp48

Zed,

Is it possible to get a copy of the page which deals with the cross member mods.......

Sorry, I don't have a scanner, but this link that mperdue posted covers it pretty good.

http://240z.jeromio.com/frontcross.html

[

Originally posted by zed240au

hi zed

Have you actually done the Jags that Run mod have read of it but never heard of anyone doing it would like to here from anyone who has and if it really works

Ragards Mick

Sorry, I haven't done it yet, I'm just passing on what I've read. I'm not to that point in my restoration / modification yet.

Below is a pic from the JTR manual that shows the lower control arm modification that is not shown at http://240z.jeromio.com/frontcross.html

I took it with a digi camera, so the quality isn't all that great.

Thanks,

Zed & Mike, I appreciate the info.

ecp48

Ed Palmer (':classic:')

On my lowered racecar, WITH the spacers between the strut and the balljoint, the 14x7 Slotted mag WILL rub on the tie rod end hard enough to prevent the car from rolling! The previous owner installed about 3/8th" spacer plates between the wheel and the hub on each side to space the wheels out far enough to prevent the contact. I don't like this set up so I will be moving to 15" wheels when I auto-x or race.

Eric aka ZMunkey

Sounds like the simple solution is to use 15" wheels with the bumpspacers for that wheel size and be done with it, at least for a daily driver or occasional driver.

Hey guys,

Just another question, if the crossmember is modified per the instructions in the link, previously discussed, do you still use the spacer or does that become overkill?

ecp48