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240z 280z differences in actual shells


EliZZa

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Hi everyone,

I own a 71 240z that is completely rusted out and a 72 shell in what I thought to be good shape, but unforntunetly I just figured out that its crooked...

I've spent the last year or so picking and rebuilding all the 240z suspension and drivetrain parts... bought the toxico springs and struts, bushings even the rear disc conversion, not to mention the motor mods... ( id like to throw a shout to all you members, although I've never posted before, I've gathered alot of information from this site aswell as many others...thanks so much)

However, I dont have a decent frame...ones rusted to $^!# and the other crooked and I dont beleive I could ever really straighten it... so Im looking for a new shell..

I have found a perfect 78 280Z shell, other then the normal stuff like bumbers and extra rails in the doors is there any differences between the actual unibodies... I've heard that the actual sheetmetal used is little thicker, but this cant amount too much more then a 100pounds...

I also know about the excess in wiring, dash and engine weight..this dosn't concern me, as I would use all the parts I have already rebuildt and painted. Is there a difference in the placement off suspension assembly..

I bought the 240z toxico lowering package, I assume the only difference beteween the 240 and the 280 kit is the weight rating....

thanks in advance for any help....

Emile

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100 lbs difference??? LOL

Better check the data tags in the driver side door openings (B piller) for weight listed.

Lots of detail differences between the two chassis also. imo, not worth the effort to create a bastard car in this manner.

keep looking for a 240Z chassis.

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I'm aware that the total weight difference is in the 600 pound range, but wondering about just the shells....

I've figured out that the frame rails on the 280 extend farther then the ones in a 240Z... and maybe some of the sheet metal was thicker...

I guess the real question is wether or not my 240z susupension parts will fit on the 280z unibody? are the strut mouting points the same....?

Thanks

Emile

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In OZ the very early 260's had the same body as a 240. Look at the radiator support. There is the subtle difference. If you find one of these bodies then this would be the ideal body to change over. It still won't be a 240 however!

260's in the US may be extremely rare and desirable? So it may be counter-productive.

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A stone??? I guess you mean it wont be original.... I'm not really interested in keeping the car original at this point...I already have all kinds of mods... I am interested in a car that will perform well, you might say funciton is my number one priority... or a good combination of cornering, styling and driving pleasure:knockedou

But thanks for the help...

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By ''STONE '' IT IS SLANG FOR S L O W . At best it will be like having three passengers of over 200 lbs in the car + your self. This is one of the reasons they bored and stroked the 240 engine to make the 280 . Because of additional weight and emissions requirements . Not meaning it wouldn't be a fun Z but not what you are striving for. Judging from the up grades you have done to the damaged car. Another 240 is a better choice. My 2 cts.

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Early 240z's don't have the openings behind the quarter windows for the "Z" emblem, it's simply flat with 2 holes, for the early "240z" emblem.

Larger frame rails and larger radiator supports were on 280z's as were mounts for a rear swaybar.

The rear valence below the light panel has two oval openings for the bumpershocks on 280z's, which aren't there for 240z's.

240z's have a wedge-shaped indent on each side of the rear quarter, right behind the rear bumper. On 280z's this area is smooth.

Sheet metal was thicker, but in terms of the shell, I'd say no more than 100lbs were added. Some of that weight was functional, stiffening the unibody of the car, like with the framerails.

There's probably more too, just haven't noticed it yet...

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EliZZa is talking about 2 stripped bare chassis, the weigth difference between them, not the weight difference between a 240z and a 280Z

Mostly what makes the 280Z heaver is all the heavier bits bolted to the shell. (air con, etc).

As for differences, you'd want to check that the rear struts are not different. I think there was a change in the rear suspension after the 240z to give the struts more travel, the part of the chassis the struts mount to may have been changed in the later car.

But before you do all that, I'd have the 240z chassis looked at by a professional with a car alignment jig/machine, to see if the chassis can be repaired. If its only slightly tweaked it could probably be made straight again.

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Hey I am curious about a simlar issue. A guy in the woods across from me has what looks to be a black 78 Z just sitting in the yard. I was wondering what parts I could scavenge for the 71 or even the 79. I was thinking the front fenders could be useful for the 71.And maybe some of the F.I. parts for the 79.

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there is quite a few parts that would come in handy...

the fenders, the engine, the rear sway bar and assembly would be a nice addon to a 240z, alot of the rear suspension parts can be used if you want to do a lsd conversion out of a 87-89 zx... the hood and glass,I believe the brakes are the same.. but the hubs are different... the front sway bar is thicker then the 240z one I believe, but not certain. theres AC...

I dont think the e-92 distributer was in the 280z...so that no good. The 5-speed could be used...but Id rather a 280zx one personnaly, all depends on your diff I guess...

And then there's a $^!# load of overweight ugly crap....(Dear 280z owner, thats just my opinion...I'm sure the 280z drives great...)

still, lots of useful parts..

Emile

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