polyurathane Spindle pin bushings are binding

[VaGuS510]

I am replaced my first set of spindle pin bushings today and discovered a slight problem. If I tighten the nuts up too much the control arm is really difficult to move. If I torque them the the recommended 65 ft. lbs. then the arm probably wouldn't move at all. I was thinking. . .

Is it really important for these to be that tight?

My answer would be no. They are locking nuts so it isn't like they will fall off. Even if they did, what would it matter. The spindle pin will stay in because of the locking pin. And it isn't like the control arm could just fall off. Tell me what you think.

[Darrel]

Did you use the supplied grease?

Are you torqueing them down after the car is on it's own weight and rolled back and forth a few times?

[jmortensen]

This is the main problem with poly bushings IMHO. Even if you lube the crap out of them, they still have a lot of stiction. My plan was to use poly on the rear control arms when I was plannin the rebuild of my rear suspension. After feeling how much stiction is there, I started down another path: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106457 I'm now thinking of welding in threaded tube ends for the outside end and using rod ends, still working on the bushing holder for the inside. The monoballs will need constant attention so this is probably not the best idea for a street car.

One trick that tube80z shared with me is to drill a hole in the control arm and install Zerks to lube the poly bushings. Works for the outers really nicely, but doesn't work on the inners because they aren't sealed all the way around so the grease just squirts out the side. Probably better to be able to put more grease in there later on anyway, even if it doesn't force itself into the bushing. Costs about $10 to buy an assortment of Zerk fittings from Harbor Freight BTW. If yours is a street car you probably won't notice the stiction if you install the Zerks, and on the plus side the poly will last damn near forever. For my autoxer I just felt that it was too much resistance.

[VaGuS510]

I did use plenty of grease between the provided metal bushing and the urathane bushing. I didn't use any between the spindle pin and the metal bushing because it is covered with anti-sieze. I was thinking about a future solution. The best would probably be to have some teflon bushings made. I have heard that many racers use teflon. It is self lubricating and has little deflection. Another option might be to machine some out of a soft metal (brass or copper). This would be easier then rod ends.

I think I will just wing it and torque them by gut. maybe I can find a solution later. Thank for the input.

[joefarnarkler]

I did use plenty of grease between the provided metal bushing and the urathane bushing. I didn't use any between the spindle pin and the metal bushing because it is covered with anti-sieze. I was thinking about a future solution. The best would probably be to have some teflon bushings made. I have heard that many racers use teflon. It is self lubricating and has little deflection. Another option might be to machine some out of a soft metal (brass or copper). This would be easier then rod ends.

Brass or teflon bushings in this application will get the $^!# pounded out of them in street driving. Unless you plan to dodge EVERY pothole, speed bump, and every other surface irregularity. These materials are not a viable option in my opinion.

[jmortensen]

You can get 1" OD round 5/8" threaded tube ends from Coleman Racing for about $4 a piece. Cut the end of the control arm off, weld in the tube end, and that's it. I haven't done it in this particular application, but my front control arms are very similarly modified. It shouldn't be too hard (famous last words). Not nearly as hard as getting some Teflon or Brass and turning it to the size of the bushings. Then again, I have a welder and I don't have a lathe. Maybe if you have it the other way around...

Also on the inner end the G Machine bushings are a lot better than poly, so that's another way to keep the machining to a minimum.