How to tell if a 240Z is really in Pristine Condition

[Royal Flush]

First off, I'd like to say I'm new to these forums, but I'm an avid member at http://forums.amd.com/index.php?act=idx <- Forums for AMD Computers and whatnot but anyway,

I could have a choice of two 240z's

One is my father's friend's son's so hes basically a friend of mine too but he lives in Austin Texas Whereas I live in Houston (about a 2-3 hour drive) so I can't go see the car right away. But what I do know is that its the 4 speed manual red 240z that apparently needs ALOT of work. I'm only 16 so I'm still in school and I dont know if I should spend alot of my time fixing a car (If it can drive me back and forth to and from school I'd be happy and fix it later). I build Computers and know alot about electronics, but I'm not very polished in Cars which I'm sure are 10X more complex than a computer or a dvd player. But yeah as I was saying even if I could get the parts, I wouldn't exactly know how to install them. The only installations in a car I've really done is putting water in the windsheild wiper thing, Checking Oil levels, Placing oil, Placing coolant (By placing I mean putting in) and Changing a wiper. So I'm not sure if I should go for this one but he said he'll sell it to me for cheap.

The Second is from some guy in the newpaper that advertised it to be in Pristine Condition meaning Rust Free and whatnot, for $7,000. I wanted to know how I can really check if it is pristine, or if he just painted over it rather recently.

I've also had common questions of 240Zs so here they are:

1) Do they have A/C (And if so, does it work pretty well) It gets hot in Texas

2) How many speakers are in them (I'd upgrade the stereo but I want to know if I'd have to install some enclosures or something)

3) Do they have Power or manual windws (If its manual, is it easy to rotate My sister's old 2000 civic was a pain in the A** to roll up and down)

4) How is the ride quality? (Is it like a Jeep Wrangler or more like an Altima?)

5) What is the thing on the rear window of some of the cars? Its like a vent of some sort is what it looks like

6) Would a stock 240 shift well (I'ma learn Manual on the Car so...)

7) Are these easy to fix (We still have a 91 infiniti Q45 thats pretty complex)

8) I heard stories of people's Zs lifting up after going too fast, are there body kits that dont look like a stupid ricer or spoilers for it? Or would I just have to make one with some sort of moldings)

9) Since I HATE Red cars I'ma get it baked into another color (Or whatever the term is) I was thinking of an Orange with like a white by the bottom of the door saying 240Z or like a really shiny black with two thing stripes running across the top of the car. What do y'all think of that?

10) How is reliability?

11) If I upped the stereo would I need a better battery?

12) Its a 2 seater Right?

13) How does T-Tops work (I dont know if the ones I look at have them) Do they remove by pushing them through or what?

14) What would happen if I crashed into something? Like Safety ratingwise

I might come up with more later but help would be appreciated, thanks.

[Virto]

1) 240Zs were available with dealer installed A/C. The later the car, the more likely you are to have it.

2) Two speakers, not what you'd call "good." The alternator also doesn't put out much power, so I wouldn't plan on using a big amp or subs, although you COULD.

3) All 1st gen Zs have manual windows. If they're in good shape, they're butter smooth.

4) Depends on the condition of the suspension. Obviously it's not luxury car based, and with newer components expect a bit of stiffness, although not like a Civic with cut springs.

5) I assume you mean the hatch glass. Some people have aftermarket louvers. Keeps people from seeing what's in your cargo area and looks cool.

6) If the transmission and clutch are in good condition, certainly, if they aren't and you're not a fast learner, you may end up having to shell out for a new clutch.

7) 240s and 260s are fairly basic, 280Zs involve fuel injections and thus computer controls. Parts for all models can be pricey and some can be hard to find.

8) If you get a 1st gen Z fast enough to where you get some front end lift, you've got some mental problems.

9) Try picking another factory color from that time period. There is a list available if you do a search. Just don't try to sell the car as "original" down the road.

10) How reliable are most 30+ year cars? Take care of it, and have a good understanding of the technology involved and you should be fine.

11) As I mentioned earlier, the alternator puts out enough to cover the car's electrical usage stock. New battery or not, there's a good chance that a too-big radio will drain it.

12) It's a 2-seater unless you get a 2+2 model. Those have child size rear seats.

13) 1st gen Zs do not have T-tops. The 280ZX in 79 introduced them.

14) Expect a total and if at high speed, have good life insurance. They conformed to federal standards of 30+ years ago, so walking away from a big one isn't so likely.

Also, check for ANY AND ALL RUST, primarily on the underside of the car and in the battery area and hatch area. This is a unibody car and all rust will need to be repaired quickly and by a skilled craftsman, or you risk the structural integrity of the car.

Seven grand might be a good price if it's rust free and in good overal shape...but don't buy this car thinking it's going to be as reliable or dependable as something you'd go buy today.

[Royal Flush]

Alright thanks alot for the reply

[Virto]

No worries man. There's a lot of good people here that are more than willing to give you all the advice and guidance you need.

We'll help you get the Z car you want, and if you have problems, we'll try and help sort through them.

And if you don't end up buying a Z, your interest alone makes you welcome here.

-Kelly

[Royal Flush]

How much might it cost if it has a moderate amount of rust on the underside to fix?

[Virto]

Depends on the level of damage.

Common trouble spots are the frame rails and floorpan. The pan is less expensive usually, as there are floorpan kits you can buy and weld in.

Rails are usually fabricated by your welder, but there are rail covers you can buy which add strength that get tacked on over your repairs.

Some level of damage is acceptable, but once it's rusty, it won't stop rusting until it eats all the metal around it. Best to get it fixed. A good guy will probably charge you about a grand if there's nothing too severe. Large scale damage would probably best be fixed by stripping the car to a shell and having it rotisseried at a good shop. This is also an excellent step in having a quality paintjob done.

Of course, you can expect to spend much more for that, but if you want the car to last a long long time, it might be best to give the shell to a qualified person and have them go over it completely, fixing anything and everything.

Since Texas isn't in the salt belt (although it gets its share from the gulf) it's not as likely to be catastrophic like those of us with midwestern cars.

EDIT: If you really want a Z, you could buy more of a clunker (like mine turned out to be) and just drive it til it breaks. There are numerous people on here that have spent 10s of thousands to get thier Zs to a factory or better level. I just don't want you to go spend 7k on a car without knowing that there are potential problems waiting for you. Another good idea, with a carbourted Z would be to have the carbs rebuilt by a place like ZTherepy if they haven't been well maintained. Not cheap, but adds a lot to the life of the car.

[moonpup]

Howdy Royal.... Where are you located in Houston. I live in S.W. Hou. and if you or the 7k car are somewhat nearby, I'd be happy to go check it out with you. PM me if you're interested.

[Royal Flush]

Yea I live in South West Alief area (ahem the ghetto)

[240ZGL]

If I can make a suggestion, the questions sound more like you should be looking at a nice 280ZX or newer. The 240 was a basic sports car. It's ment to handle good and go fast. It's a drivers car. They were not concered with sound systems, and power everything, thats not what a real sports car was all about in the 70's. Later on they did equip them with more luxury items and like most car builder lost the meaning of a true sports car. Look at the Jags, Vettes, Porsche, MG's and such of that day. If you look at a original 240Z, you see things like floor mats instead of a fully carpeted and insulated interior, AM/FM was a step up. They started life as a 4 speed, thin metal, race car type suspention, no power anything 2 seater. Thats a sports car. Sure you can have A/C and a great sound package and an automatic, but at what cost. You end up with a car that looks like a 240Z but the drive isn't the same. Back then it was all about driving the car instead of just riding in it.

[Royal Flush]

Yeah but 280ZXes are pretty rare as opposed to a 300ZX, but I already know 2 people placing 240's on the market.

I Think the main reason I'm sttracted to this car is the rough old look, (I originally was gonna get a 88 Jeep CJ but it didn't suit me that much)

I know I'd prolly prefer the 280ZX but even on Ebay they are pretty rare, The reason why I was asking about ride quality and whatnot was because I dont like these days how cars and trucks are mostly plasticy looking (The Toyota FJ looks like a barbie toy) And I like the classic steel look. I think I'd be happy with both 240Z and 280ZX since they look pretty much the same, but I want a car that I can drive all the way to Austin or for a long time (When I go to college) Which is also why I was asking about reliability.

This might be tedious but what are the real differences between the 240Z and the 280ZX, and does the X have a meaning? I know a family friend has a manual 350Z which is really fun to drive in and goes fast, does either car stack up to the 350's power?

[280z1975]

Virto has some good answers, but I will add a few things ... My Z is a 280z and is a native of Texas till just last month.

2) The stock stereo sucks, you can upgrade them with a decent stereo (bulid a box for the rear tail light area for rear speakers). I put in a 100amp alternator in mine to handle a 5 way 800 watt amplifier.

4) The ride can be stiff. You might need to replace the old 35+ year old rubber bushings with polyurethane and then replace the shocks and struts. This will improve the ride quite a bit. On the other hand they handle quite well. It's always a sliding scale, the more you have a smooth ride, the less handleing, the more handleing (race corner cutting style) the less smooth of a ride.

7) The cars are 'fairly' easy to fix. If you have the ability to build a computer you can learn to work and repair a car.

8) I know the front end can get light at top speed, but you can replace the stock front valance with an airdam that will allow you to gain more downforce. This is what I did.

9) You can do whatever you want with color. My car was a light blue before (I didn't want it that color) so I painted it the 1978 Metallic Black Pearl Color. It was a BIG project to do this the right way (remove so many things and MANY body parts). Keeping the car the same color is MUCH easier and will help the car retain it's value (something the 240z's are good for)

10) They can be anything from a money pit to a nice daily driver. Mine is a money pit at the moment (but mine set for about 4 years). So I am sorting out all the problems that caused. If the car you are looking at has been non-running for a while, be prepared for some work to get things, but this can vary from car to car.

11) You need to upgrade the alternator and run the amplifier wires direct to the battery with a fuse in line.

13) This was not an option on the 240z, but some had them put on, along with sunroofs. This can decrease the value of the car.

14) In a minor wreck you will have some serious damage to the car because the bumpers are just decor on the 240z (be it nice looking decore, much nicer looking than my 280z bumpers)

I hope these help. Be sure to check the car well. It may be a Texas car, but they still get rust, but not like the z's from the North. Mine had one body rail rusted out and some light surface rust.

[280z1975]

Yeah but 280ZXes are pretty rare as opposed to a 300ZX, but I already know 2 people placing 240's on the market.

I Think the main reason I'm sttracted to this car is the rough old look, (I originally was gonna get a 88 Jeep CJ but it didn't suit me that much)

I know I'd prolly prefer the 280ZX but even on Ebay they are pretty rare, The reason why I was asking about ride quality and whatnot was because I dont like these days how cars and trucks are mostly plasticy looking (The Toyota FJ looks like a barbie toy) And I like the classic steel look. I think I'd be happy with both 240Z and 280ZX since they look pretty much the same, but I want a car that I can drive all the way to Austin or for a long time (When I go to college) Which is also why I was asking about reliability.

This might be tedious but what are the real differences between the 240Z and the 280ZX, and does the X have a meaning? I know a family friend has a manual 350Z which is really fun to drive in and goes fast, does either car stack up to the 350's power?

Go to Clay Road and Hwy 6, about 350 feet on the left hand side if you are traveling north there is a white 280zx for sale (well about a month ago there was), it was 3000 bucks. Looked ok, but should be only 1750 to 2250 for a car like that in good shape. They are more available than you think. You can find them all the time.

If you want a good mechanic to check it out, go just south from the used car dealer on HWY 6 about half a mile and on the right and turn into the shopping center with a Rim and Tire shop. There you will find P and B Auto Repair, talk to either Bryan or Phil and they will give you a good mechanical vaulation of the car (both of them worked for a Nissan dealer for years). They have been my mechanics for the past 6 years and are as nice as they come. Tell them Gregg with the black 280z sent you.