:stupid: :stupid: i have a 76 280 fuel injected thats starts up and idols just fine...however after getting to running temperature, it will hesitate REALLY BAD (almost like a stall) then pick back up again and continue down the road till the next time. it never does it on idol or decelaration...only when accelorating. and it wont do it all the time...its very spiratic. its got new plugs, wires, dist cap, and rotor, and fuel pump. i just bought the car so i cant tell u much more than that..the fuel pump did have a small leak coming out the bottom, but i tightend up everything and it seemed to be ok for about a week...now its doing the same thing again...but with no leak. the only thing i can think of is the fuel pump is faulty or perhaps a short in the wiring somewhere. any more ideas would be greatly appreciated...thanks

oh, and it smells of gas really bad after it hesitates...

I have the same thing going on with my '77 280Z. Any ideas, thoughts are greatly appreciated.

I had the same thing and didnt figure it out so I swaped to Carbs.

First thing I'd do is perform a fuel pressure test. This requires an expensive fuel pressure test kit however and I'm sure you probably don't own one. Are you absolutely positive you eliminated every possible leak? I'd double check things again because it sure sounds like a leak to me. If you had no fuel leak, you wouldn't be able to smell fuel. Check under the hood and inspect all the rubber fuel hoses that connect the fuel pipes, the rubber hoses on all the injectors, hoses on the fuel filter ect. They can have the smallest hair line crack that you may not be able to see and could be leaking or tired out hose clamps that are no longer working like they should. (ALWAYS use new clamps whenever replacing hoses) I'd double check what I mentioned above to start. How is that fuel filter? The fuel filter tends to be ignored by many and more often than not turns out to be the culprit as well. Also you say you did plugs, wires,cap, and rotor. Make certain all of your wires are in place. I've seen many times where the rubber boot is on the cap so it looks like it's plugged in but the actual wire end connecter is not "clicked" in secure. Also using a dist. cap thats a different brand from the rotor will create problems as well.

Best of luck