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I know this might be the way most guys like their women, but my car just doesn't appear to be sitting right. The front end seems to sit pretty high while the back end sits pretty low. What should I look for? Also, I will try and post a picture or 2 it that helps.

Bill


measure the distance from the jack points on the rockers . My 240 sets dead level at 7 1/4 '' front and rear. Now that is measured from the rockers not the spot welded flange. I did lower the front of mine about 1 1/4'' to achieve this. Handles at speed better . Doesnt feel light in the Loafers like it did before at around 85 ,90 MPH. I like the look . I have had the car in 3 shows and have had complements each time . I just cut the flat circle of the coil spring + 1/4 of the helical . The small amount taken off didnt effect the ride as far as stiffness or bottoming out . All of that is like before , alignment wasn't effected either. You may be running different wheels and tires and this will effect the height measurement. I have at present 195/70 14s Also she is a 240. LOL Gary

According to the various Road & Track articles I have, this was normal (to a certain extent) for US 240Zs. The 260Z had changes to level the car more. The Euro Stage 1 springs from the factory were supposed to lower the front about 10 mm (3/8") and the raise the rear about the same amount. So if you have a 240Z this might be normal. It could be exaggerated greatly if the shocks didn't match front and rear. If the fronts have more gas pressure than the rear you could see this as well.

Yea, I need to take a closer look, but it is really obvious. A friend of mine took one look without me saying anything and the first thing he said was "man that sits high in the front". It is a 73 240. My other 73 sits pretty level like Gary said.

Bill

Poly on the strut insulator isn't a very good idea IMO. The idea of the insulator is for the rubber to flex and allow the strut to change angles as the suspension goes through its travel. Nissan used a lot of rubber, and the rubber is relatively soft so that the angle can change without putting too much bending load on the top of the strut shaft.

Going to even the same size poly insulator would dramatically increase the stress on the strut shaft, but IIRC the ones that I've seen are also shorter to lower the car. So then you have a shorter piece of a much less pliable material doing the job. Sounds like a recipe for blown struts to me.

It's similar to the poly TC rod bushings. Putting poly in this spot is not the best idea because in order for the suspension to move the TC rod must flex the bushing material. The TC rod has to be allowed to move, otherwise the stress will eventually cause it to break. And, whaddya know, seen quite a few broken TC rods with poly bushings. OT--but one answer to that problem is to put a rubber bushing in the back and poly in the front bushing cup to lessen the stress on the TC rod and not stress it as much.

Poly is better for the control arms, where its resistance to deflection means the suspension remains more consistent especially for rear control arms where bushing deflection means unwanted toe change. It's just not that good for areas where the bushing's deflection is required for the suspension to move.

Just my $.02.

Hi Bill

Did you get a chance to look for Topend Performance? If Not here's a link for them.

Mr.jmortensen brings up a good point, I personaly feel the Poly spring pocket bushing would have no effect on the strut other than being harder to compress.

I would take my thoughts with a grain of salt I'm new to Z cars for past few years I have been building 4x4 F-40's AND K5's and Mr.jmortensen has many more years at these fun cars than I do.

http://www.racetep.com/INDEXX.html

http://www.racetep.com/datsun7.html

Hopefuly that works LOL

Eric

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