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Few questions


KenshinX

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Hey guys, I just have a few simple questions before i shop for needed tools.

Is it true the 240s and 260s use metric tools?

What type tools do i use on 280z metric or SAE?

Where can i get a new gas tank for 280 or 240z stock? or do i have to clean out the one given?

Is it good to replace the manafold when getting a new exhaust?

What are some places in the engine that has the most sludge?

Where can i get stock fuel lines?

Can i do without sideskirts when installing a body kit? ex. 280z with bumper-less front spoiler and rear bumber.

Thanks in adavance any response is fine with me. :)

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Hey guys, I just have a few simple questions before i shop for needed tools.

Is it true the 240s and 260s use metric tools?

What type tools do i use on 280z metric or SAE?

Where can i get a new gas tank for 280 or 240z stock? or do i have to clean out the one given?

Is it good to replace the manafold when getting a new exhaust?

What are some places in the engine that has the most sludge?

Where can i get stock fuel lines?

Can i do without sideskirts when installing a body kit? ex. 280z with bumper-less front spoiler and rear bumber.

Thanks in adavance any response is fine with me. :)

The Z car series have metric fasteners unless someone replaced them with SAE fasteners, such as on battery cables. (Edit) Oh, they do use SAE spark plugs.

I don't think anybody has NEW gas tanks for these 30 year old cars, though Motorsport Auto may be working on some reproductions. You can get used tanks from any of a number of parts vendors. Be prepared to treat/recondition the tank, though.

What do you want to replace the manifold with? Stock? Headers? Details, man. We need details.

Why are you worried about sludge in your engine?

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I just want to have an idea of what to check when im ready ahead of time I want to clean out as much crap out of the car that I can while im working on it as I can get the best gas mileage and best ride. Im a noob so please dont mind my questions if they sound really slow.

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yep i have 27 different threads in which i will be performing on my own most likley like further patch wielding besides that of which is already done and and swapping out the tranny for manual as explained by Arne. I also have a hanes guide on shippent just won the auction today AND I have the how to restore your datsun 240z etc book on order and rebuilding your Nissan OHC engine on order too. Along with an auction for an original service manual on watch so im am not just asking questions i am just asking honest questions.

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Do you have a car? You're asking 240, 260 and 280 . . . . Basically, they're the same, but there are differences. What are your plans? Total restoration, reliable daily driver or just enough so that it runs? Like SteveJ said, details, we need details. Case in point, you ask about stock fuel lines. Are you referring to the metal ones or the rubber ones? Not ragging on you, but it's just hard to help when vague questions are asked.

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1) Get a high quality metric socket set and a wrench set, SK, Mac, or equivalent, and a 3/4 deep socket for the spark plugs. Add a second 12,14,16mm and a 19 and 26mm sockets(6 sided socket for 17mm and above)

2) Have your tank boiled, and use the Gastank kit from POR15.com.

3) Replace the manifold only if it is cracked or otherwise damaged.

4) Have the block cleaned at a machine shop-even if you don't use one for anything else-they will dip it and there will be no sludge.

5) The hard lines should not need replacing, the high pressure fuel injection hose is availabe at most auto parts stores, but make sure it has "high pressure fuel injection hose" actually printed on the hose-otherwise they sold you fuel hose for a carbureator-do not use that-it WILL burst.

6) You can pick and choose anything you want for your-it is your car!

Will

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1) Get a high quality metric socket set and a wrench set, SK, Mac, or equivalent, and a 3/4 deep socket for the spark plugs. Add a second 12,14,16mm and a 19 and 26mm sockets(6 sided socket for 17mm and above)

My 155 pc Craftsman "Mechanic's" set has yet to lack a wrench/socket I've needed for my 280.

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1) Get a high quality metric socket set and a wrench set, SK, Mac, or equivalent, and a 3/4 deep socket for the spark plugs. Add a second 12,14,16mm and a 19 and 26mm sockets(6 sided socket for 17mm and above)

2) Have your tank boiled, and use the Gastank kit from POR15.com.

3) Replace the manifold only if it is cracked or otherwise damaged.

4) Have the block cleaned at a machine shop-even if you don't use one for anything else-they will dip it and there will be no sludge.

5) The hard lines should not need replacing, the high pressure fuel injection hose is availabe at most auto parts stores, but make sure it has "high pressure fuel injection hose" actually printed on the hose-otherwise they sold you fuel hose for a carbureator-do not use that-it WILL burst.

6) You can pick and choose anything you want for your-it is your car!

Will

Don't forget about a 17 mm crow's foot and feeler gauge for adjusting valves. Also two torque wrenches. One should measure in foot-pounds. The other should measure in inch-pounds. Proper torque on bolts can prevent warpage and leaks. - By the way, Kenshin, search Zcar.com for valve adjustment. You'll find a link to an excellent guide written by a user named Kammy. I used it for my first valve adjustment, and it was a piece of cake. While you're at it, find the tech tip page of a user there named Blue and bookmark it.

Other important tools to me are...

Good jack stands

Good ramps

Spring compressors for your struts - Harbor Freight has them cheap

Brass hammer

Rubber mallet

Floor jack - even the small ones for $20 at most parts places will work.

Multimeter - get one that can measure 10 Amps.

Timing light with an adjustable dial

A good solderless crimping tool - there are probably a lot of corroded wires

Boy, this list could go on for a while, especially if I looked out in my garage.

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