Ebrake release...love that rust

[Virto]

I had the car garaged over the winter, and have picked up a new battery so I'm about ready to pull her out. Work has been killer, so this didn't happen two months ago like I wanted.

During the storage time, I had the parking brake set, as my auto tranny's park gear doesn't work. I should have just used a cinder block, but hindsight as they say, is 20/20.

Anyway, when I put the brake handle down, there's little of that "feel" to it. I can't push the car in neutral so I imagine the brake rusted in place while the car sat.

What, in your opinions, would be the best way to release the brakes? I'd like to avoid taking the wheels off just because I'm lazy, but it's not out of the question...I am however scared of drum brakes, ever since I tried to do the ones on my Tercel about 10 years ago and the springs went flying everywhere. Never could get them to work right after that.

Bonus Question - What automatic transmission fluid would you recommend?

[aldersonr]

I just ran into that one myself, but since mine had been sitting for 12 years I replaced EVERYTHING. As for your situation you may trying spraying the e-brake cable and linkage by the back wheel with a lubricant and tapping on it with a hammer. This has worked on other cars I've dealt with in the past, no promises though. As for the brakes they're a pretty simple setup. Just leave one side together and use it as reference. Also if you connect the bottom spring to the pads before putting them on it saves a lot of hassle. Good luck!

-Robert

[zbane]

Just a guess on your tranny issue-

I would imagine Dexron 3, not type F (type F is generally used on Fords, Dexron on GM products and most imports). If no one here can give you a difinitive answer, I would suggest contacting one of those restoratation places or a dealer (not sure about the dealer, though).

E-Brake-I agree with the lube and tap method.

[Arne]

Could be either the shoes rusted to the drums, or the parking brake cable rusted inside the sheath. What you will need to do depends on which is the problem. Have some one pull and release the lever while you watch the cables at the rear of the wheels. If the cables move, the shoes are probably rusted to the drums. If the cables don't move, the cable is bad and will probably need to be replaced. But you could disconnect the cables at the wheels as a temporary measure to get rolling again.

Unless -- maybe it has both problems!

[zbane]

I just searched through my service manual- I've got a 280zx, I know it's different than your model, but the tranny fluid will definately be the same.

Check your linkages for your ebrake, the problem might be there.

[Virto]

Bah, sounds like this will be quite a chore. Good thing it's only 95 degrees out, and 110 in my garage.

I've done some more searching, and I'm trying to find a good spot for my floor jack to lift the rear. I know I can put the jack stands on the frame rails at the back, but I need to know where to put the jack to lift the car in the first place.

Some posts mentioned the front differential mount. Anyone have a picture of this location? I don't want to punch thru sheet metal or smush the differential while I'm at it.

[zbane]

I'm pretty sure that would be the best place to use a floor jack. Otherwise, do it like you would if you had to change the tire (no fun in the heat of your garage)

[zbane]

It seems that the fine folks at Nissan felt that your traditional jack points would work for the z's. Look for where panels meet between the wheels (running board area) as this should be the strongest body jacking location.

[Virto]

Good old scissors jacks.

If I can't find a suitable place for my floor jack, I guess I'll go with the old tried and true. Thanks bane.

[zbane]

I hope these will help-

[Virto]

I actually went out to the garage and had a siesta on the floor, which apparently is the sole supplier for the continential USs spider supply, and located the front differential mount.

While fighting off legions of multi-legged attackers, I determined that it will certainly require two people to position the jack properly...one sliding it in from the side, and one watching from the back. The fuel tank prevents the lift handle from raising high enough.

I didn't get much of a chance to look around, aside from hunting for the differential mount, but I did notice that the springs on each terminating end of the ebrake cable, where they meet the back of the drum, appear to be somewhat compressed, based on some pictures I've seen of other people's brakes.

Of course, things do differ between models and individual vehicles, but at this point it looks as if the brakes have rusted to the drum and are preventing the cable from retracting, and because I had the brake set pretty tightly, I have little doubt that those wheels won't be anxious to spin once they're off the ground.

As an aside, is that the 280ZX service manual, or owners' manual? I really do need to get ahold of a service manual.

[zbane]

It's the service manual-came with the car!