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04/72 240z A/C


richard1

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First, I have gone through all the archives of this site. about the dealer installed A/C units and it seems that I have the Sankyo/Sanden compressor installed on the driver's side.

As you will understand the compressor unit is installed below the air pump and not easy to service. The receiver/dryer is the "coke bottle" unit mounted on the the passenger side fender well.

My questions are as follow:

1- Is this unit has been sold under the brand name of "fridgiking"?

2- The unit has been serviced two years ago and I am in need of a refill. Here in Vegas, ther A/C shops that still have R-12 are robbers charging in excess of $200.00. I can find some R-12 cans (real R-12) at decent price to fill up. Also, I found the proper filling hose to do the work myself. Where is the valve in the system to fill up?

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After a mere 2 years you should not be needing a refill. You probably have a leaking O-ring somewhere in the system. R-12 has gotten rediculously expensive in recent years, if it is attainable at all. I would suggest having your system evac'ed and inspected for leaks. Yes, this will probably be expensive, but after finding your leak, your system should be good for 10 years+.

My 2/72 has been disconnected for so long I don't dare do anything with it. Good luck to you.

Devin

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72240Z is right. Find the leaks or you'll just be wasting that expensive R12 or whatever refrigerant you put in. I have found when working with the older systems, the hoses are usally the problem. The old Sankyo/Sanden 508 is pretty bullet proof and are still being manufactured and used to this day. 'Real R12' is no longer that desirable or necessary. There are some good alternatives available including R414B, Red Tek 12, Enviro-Safe 12 etc. All of them run a lower head pressures than R12 which is easier on the AC system. I personally have used R414B and Red Tek 12. Both work well and actually run a few degrees cooler than R12. Whatever you do, don't convert an old R12 system the R134a.

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The requirement to go to a licenced tech for R12 is to avoid the owner just adding R12 to a system to have it leak out again.

A good tech will evacuate the system saving the R12. Run a vacuum test for 20 to 30 minutes to see if it will hold said vacuum.

If not they can run a test gas and test for the leak.

As said above, replacement of o ring, hose, etc. is relatively inexpensive compared to buying the gas.

Also, don't put the 134 in the system. The molocules are much smaller and will leak out of the R12 system hoses, connections, etc.

You could of course convert to a 134 system of completely new components acquired from someone like Vintage Air of Texas. A $$$ proposition, but one that would last for years and be very maintainable.

its your $$.

PS I converted to 134 complete system due to York compressor droping its oil on the garage floor.

Good luck.

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anyone ever heard of a product called "freez12" It is suposedly a replacement for R-12. I had my Jeep A/C recharged with that stuff and it was about $15 a pound. I think you need to still have some R12 left in your system but unless you have a huge leak there should be some still in there. My Jeep A/C was so low that the compressor shut off and my local A/C guy filled it up with what he called "freez12" and buuuuuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrr, nice and cold. Just a some Info I thought I would pass on.

Rock on Z people!

I found it on Ebay Freeze12 check it out

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FREEZE-12-FREON-R12-SUBSTITUTE-FREEZE12-3-CANS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33543QQihZ017QQitemZ270002839621QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

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Freeze-12 is also a workable alternative. It mimics the characteristics of R12 as far and high and low side pressures, runs colder than R12, and takes less volume to fill the system than R12. I've used it but I have made Red Tek 12 my refrigerant of choice due to the success I've had with it and the price i can get it for. As far as the cylinder of R12 on Craig's List, I wouldn't buy a partial cylinder of any refrigerant. Just my personal preference.

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