Painting a 240Z like the factory did

[zcarnut]

Although the painting phase of my restoration project is some time away, I am considering painting my 1970 240Z just like the factory did. As part of the restoration I plan to completely remove the existing paint from all the body panels and the uni-body shell.

Based on observations of several 240Z’s with original paint, it appears that Nissan painted the cars with the doors, rear hatch, fenders, headlight extensions, hood, inspection panels, valance and the outer valance panels attached to the uni-body. The cowl panel must have been laid in place without its screws during painting so it could be removed later for installation of the wiper components.

Of course, when I do this the panels and uni-body will have already been primed with epoxy primer and the back sides of the panels and the bottom of the uni-body will already have a coat of the top color. I am not too concerned with getting overspray on these areas.

One thing I haven’t figured out is if the hood springs (or rods) were in place or not when the cars were painted. All the hood springs I have seen are painted black. My guess is the factory painted the hood springs in place with the rest of the car and then painted them black after the body paint had dried and when they were painting the front of the radiator support black.

Painting the car in this manner has some advantages, like you can align the doors, fenders and hood correctly before painting. Installing and aligning these parts after they have been painted invites the risk of scratching the new paint.

Of course, one down side is the problem of how to install the engine without removing the hood, and the answer is to install from the bottom (again, just like the factory did). I have access to a shop with a floor lift and I think this can be used to lower the 240Z onto the front suspension crossmember which will have the engine bolted to it.

I sure I have left out some details, so comments and discussion are welcome!

[jmortensen]

Not my forte, but I always thought the fenders were painted off the car. The few that I've seen with the fenders painted on the car had paint welled up in the joint at the base of the A pillar where the fender meets the unibody. I took all the lead out of that area on my car, but I seem to remember it was red underneath the fender, indicating that the fender was off, at least during the period of time that the A pillar was painted.

[26th-Z]

Why is it so important to paint the car "the way the factory did it"? Yes, the engines and transmissions were installed as a sub frame unit including the suspension from underneath the car.

[EScanlon]

Are you referring to the Brush Marks in the Black paint on the forward part of the radiator support? Also on the floor area around the seat supports?

If your intent is to paint the car, but at the same time try to maintain an air of "it's the "original" paint", then this might be an area you might investigate. I'm not sure if they used a nylon brush or a natural fiber, then again, I'm not sure of the brush width or thickness.

I can't figure out any other reason for wanting to duplicate the factory's methods in this respect. The ONLY people that would be able to notice that would be, you and an unsuspecting future owner.

This is the first I've ever heard of someone painting "just like the factory did".

Tongue firmly in cheek....

E

[zcarnut]

I think you guys are missing the point....

My reason for painting the car in this manner is, in my opinion, the easiest way to achieve the best results. It has nothing to do with trying to be a purist by tying to duplicate the exact factory process.

If you paint the panels off the car you eventually have to re-attach them to the uni-body. If the bolts that attach the panel were painted the top color, then you will chip paint off these bolts during the re-assembly process. Adjusting a panel for correct “gaps” generally involves loosening and re-tightening [at least some of] the panel attachment bolts more than once. Touching-up the paint on these bolts is very difficult to do without being noticeable.

Car restoration is my hobby and I have painted (or I should say “re-painted”) several cars in the last twenty years, including two Z cars. But in all these instances the body panels were already attached and the engine and drivetrain were already in the vehicle.

This will not be the case for my 240Z project. Here I have the opportunity to do a more correct restoration and yes, I am tying to duplicate the factory results which I assume was to be a nice paint job.

[EScanlon]

I'll admit I missed the point.

Then again, the manner in which you presented it implied the need to duplicate a process that, for the most part, leaves a lot to be desired as opposed to how to prevent chipping paint.

The lack of paint under the cowl panel, the thin layer of primer between panels that doesn't prevent rust, the brush painted black-out paint in front of the radiator support, may have been inexpensive and quick for the factory during production. But for you as an individual taking the time to do it right, you may be taking a short-cut that won't really pay off.

While I can understand and even laud the intent of using the pre-assembly technique to avoid chips on panels and having to touch up bolts and other surfaces, I'm wondering if you aren't making a bigger problem out of it.

You'll have to mask many areas that might otherwise benefit from a good shot of paint. A partial assembly of some items may be possible, but there are others that simply won't be without really exacerbating your masking headache.

Pre-mounting doors, hatch, and hood are all a good idea, expecially if you take the time to mark (scribe) bolt locations. However, leaving the hatch, hood and doors on the car while it gets painted will now require that you mask the seam opening to prevent a dry-line on the inner surfaces. Additionally, when you paint the jambs and other inner surfaces, you'll have to determine what to do with your overspray out or mask the outer surfaces....and invert that mask when you spray the outside.

Then again, a good shot of paint on the underside of the fenders, the front support member, and the contact surfaces between panels will do a lot to keep the metal from rusting.

That doesn't even include the fact that you'll have to maintain SOME degree of separation between the panels in order to not let the paint bridge the gap and then crack if the body ever does need adjusting or you remove and replace a panel, such as the front valances.

But all of these are different TECHNIQUES, and the job at hand will dictate a lot of the conditions for the job. If you're addressing a re-paint in the same color, but not a disassemble/recondition/reassemble process, then you needn't address re-aligning panels.....unless that's a problem before hand. Then again, throw in a complete color change and you need to address the jambs and how to paint them and whether or not you'll be removing doors or other items to complete the color change. Are you just going to mask off the windshield and it's rubber gasket? What about the metal window frames? Door Handles and locks? Emblems?

Can you see that the conditions by which you're working aren't the same as those at the factory?

So, I'll apologize if you misunderstood MY point, but YOUR technique in painting and your technique in re-assembly are but two different parts of the refreshing process.

The technique you mention to avoid having chipped paint is a good technique....but it also has other drawbacks which you should examine.

Enrique

[Maddos]

Couldn't you possibly do a top coat partially disassembled and then do a completely assembled finishing coat?