Exhaust Manifold -- engine lift?

[mimregi]

Considering getting a new exhaust manifold. This would officially be the biggest automotive job I have undertaken (have been slowly working my way up to it -- redid the ignition system last week, carbs next week). I could just go to a shop, but I would rather do the work myself. In order to have all the relevant info before making a call, can anyone tell me if I need to pull the engine to get the manifold off? It looks like I can get to it if I get the car off the ground, but it seems worth asking here =)

Also, MSI is pretty much the only place i know to shop -- if anyone has any recommendations from either there or other shops, I'd be glad to hear them. I am looking at the targa exhaust system (it is in their print catalog, but cant find it online so I am not sure it is still available) and the MSA 3 into 2 headers. It's a '73 with the stock E88; I primarily just want to rip the butchered system out of there and get something nice that is relatively quiet and doesn't hang low (the current piping that is in there hangs a good 3-4" lower than anything else on the car, and the car is lowered a bit).

Thanks!

-m

[Arne]

Manifolds can definitely be removed and installed with the engine in place.

[mimregi]

Manifolds can definitely be removed and installed with the engine in place.

Hooray! I had hoped so, and that definitely has me leaning more towards just putting them in myself. It actually seems like a pretty easy job -- "bigger" than the carbs, but pretty straightforward -- am I under a drastic misapprehension there?

Anyone have any experience with the "off the shelf" solutions? My only concern is that it will fit waithout any modification or fabrication (if that's a chance, I may as well just bring it to a muffler shop right off the bat).

Thanks as always Arne =)

-m

[280~Master]

Your exhaust manifold is not all that hard to pull off. You can run into problems where it bolts into the exhaust at the flange. Make sure you have soaked those bolts in penetrating oil. After many years of hot to cold to hot they tend to get stuck. You may also want to remove the studs in the head and put in some new ones. Be careful here also these have a tendency to break off in the head and then you’re drilling and cussing at it. Take your time on this and make sure you have everything you need or might need waiting for you like new studs, new nuts, and intake and exhaust gasket, and so forth. As far as the headers I have heard different stories about them fitting and not fitting. Maybe someone here will have some insight on who makes the best fitting headers for the Z.

[kmack]

If you're interested, I have an exhaust header that I'm trying to sell. It's a 6-into-1 with a 2-1/2" collector. It has fittings for smog ports, but they have been plugged (could be drilled out and re-used if needed).

I'd like to get $65 + shipping for it.

[mimregi]

280~master:

If I do it, I am definitely ordering everything -- I am a big believer in replacing and cleaning everything I can when I have access to it, so I priced it out with studs, a gasket (obviously) and everything else I am ware of. I appreciate the advice though -- patience is not my strongest virtue, so a friendly warning that the bolts are prone to snapping will not go unheeded =) (part of why I need a hobby like working on my car -- to learn patience)

kmack:

My primary concern is still fit. My hesitation with a 6-into-1 is that the vertical is built in. Unless I am much mistaken (possible), the 3-into-2's come down at an angle, so I can alwyas shave off some of the vertical drop by cutting the 2-into-1 adapter. I appreciate the offer, but I don't think the 6-into-1 is for me =(

[zguitar71]

The Nissan Compitition header is very nice. I would get it befor anything that MSA sells. www.rebelloracing.com sells them and the 2 to 1 collector pipe after the header, it goes to 2.5" at that point. The 1 5/8" primaries are the way to go, the 1 3/4" primaries are for higher reving higher power motors. Do not expect big power gains (you will get some) from a header with out other head work, but if you do plan on making the head flow more in the future then a good flowing header and exaust is very important.

[kmack]

280~master:

My primary concern is still fit. My hesitation with a 6-into-1 is that the vertical is built in. Unless I am much mistaken (possible), the 3-into-2's come down at an angle, so I can alwyas shave off some of the vertical drop by cutting the 2-into-1 adapter. I appreciate the offer, but I don't think the 6-into-1 is for me =(

Yes, the vertical height (or drop) of this header is built in. But it does not hang lower than the bottom of the car. To be honest, it is a 6-into-2-into-1 header. The really is no such thing as a 3-into-2. You always start out with 6 ports. I used to have a header with the angle like you say. This one actually works better on the car. With the angled header, I actually had to angle back up slightly. The only thing that hung below the bottom line of the car was the U-bolt at the collector to pipe connection. This one allows you to run straight into the tranny tunnel. Much cleaner look in my opinion.

But hey. No hard feelings if you don't want it. Anybody else?

[beandip]

I am running a MSA header 3 to 2 to1 and the 2 1/2 '' exhaust that they sell . It went right in and I didn't have any fabrication to do. If you are running a stock L-24 you do not want the 2 1/2 set up . It will lessen your power at street speeds . 2'' or 2 1/4 max would be a better choice. Both for sound and torque . You mentioned sound he headers will increase the sound level . Plus put more heat under the hood . Just a couple of factors to consider. Which ever header or manifold you end up with . Buy the gasket from Motorsport and get the heavy duty one they sell for headers. Gary PS the headder from Kmack would be a good way to go and just take the car to the muffler shop and have them do the pipeing. If they cannot mandrel bend the pipe then go with 2 1/4'' I have a Dynomax super turbo muffler on and it has great low rumble sound at idle .

[mimregi]

I got a recommendation for a local guy from Seerex (I hate going to a shop without a recommendation), so I am going to check him out today and get an estimate. I have a sneaky suspicion I will be ordering parts though...

[Pop's Z]

Mathew, That system is NLA from MSA. I called about it in May after I had seen and heard it at the MSA show in April. The end pipes are still available in two sizes. FWIW you don't need a header if you're stock. You won't get much out of it and it's much more noisy, and HOT. As far as an exhaust system search under "exhaust system" to see what I did. I went the local muffler shop route and am very happy w/ the outcome. See pics in my gallery.

Cheers, Mike

[Ksteve]

I recently installed a MSA 3 into 2 header on my L24 and overall I am happy with it but it did take some work to make a good fit. The bolt/stud holes all lined up well and the alignment of the primaries to the exhaust ports seemed good. I did have to take a large file and flatten out the mating surface of the flange, especialy where the tubing penetrated. It had high spots and low spots of about 1/16". You should definitly trim the two end pipes before bolting on the 2 into 1 collector to get the right fit. I made the mistake of bolting it on tight before attaching it to the head and the collector ended up hanging down about 2" below the floor of the car and was not angled enough toward the transmission tunnel.

If you are at all concerned about appearance and longevity go for the extra cost of ceramic coating. I used a header paint on mine and did not heat-cure it, now it is shedding and blowing silver flakes all over my engine bay when I drive.