Electrical Snafu? Advice please!!

[KDMatt]

I've had another incident.

Imagine, if you will...

I'm on my way to work and I'm getting off on my exit, as I approach my turn (I have the clutch in) I take a quick gaze across my dash and see that the red LED on my voltometer reads "charge" indicating that the engine isn't running. I look to my tach. and sure enough this is the case. I quickly turn over the starter and the engine fires back up.

I cruise down the street about 20 feet then take another turn, I press in the clutch and again, the engine dies. The only difference this time, is that all of the gauges on the dash are completely flatlined (no reading on the voltometer). So naturally when I tried to crank, nothing happened.

However, on the second attempt the power came back, the engine fired and I got to the parking lot.

The reverse trip home occured without incident.

... However, this has got me a little "freaked out" to say the least. The second occurance is leading me to think I might have an electrical issue here?

I'm also going to check my plugs in relation to the first "die out" incident. I just started trying out a lead-substitute additive, and I'm thinking if it's possible that it's gunking/sooting up my plugs faster than my minor oil leak/rich mixture usually does.

I want to go through my electrical contacts and clean them all up, however, I need a place to begin, so if someone has a diagram and/or walkthrough of connections I should clean up, I would really, really appreciate the help.

Thanks folks!

EDIT:

Please take into account the following:

The alternator was replaced 2000 miles ago.

The voltage regulator has needed replacement for a while now (replacement unit is chillin' in the passenger seat)

Battery terminals are very, VERY corroded (replacements for these were purchased directly following this incident).

[sblake01]

The first connector I would check would be the on that plugs into the distributor. I had that one come loose once and it stopped the car in it's tracks. Also check the one at the temperature sensor.

[zbane]

While this matter should be investiged and repaired, why are you turning the key to restart. If you are still rolling, let out the clutch, the engine should start back up again. I think it would be safer than reaching down and turning the key while turning, drinking coffee, etc.

Is your car idleing in the low range (>500), if so, perhaps you should open up the air intake a little, you may be starving the engine a bit. FWIW, it might help.

[Virto]

If you are still rolling, let out the clutch, the engine should start back up again.

This is too dangerous based on what speeds you're moving at. If you're moving at high speed, letting the clutch out could cause one hell of an engine brake, resulting in a loss of control.

Also, you risk damage to the engine, clutch and transmission at high speed.

Push starting is a viable option, but I'd say only if you can't crank it with the key. On very rare occassions, my Tercel would do the same thing and I always used the key.

Never did track that problem down though...:tapemouth

[zbane]

I was thinking of slow, in town speeds, like turning into a parking lot or around a corner.

[KDMatt]

Well, for the record, I'm not a big fan of popping the clutch unless absolutely neccessary.

I figure $40 spent on a new starter is a far better financial scenario than $80/90+ spent on a new clutch kit.

Anyway, I replaced the battery cables tonight, and the voltage regulator. So far, so good, with the exception that I broke the bolt that the ground leads from the battery terminal are supposed to connect to.

As a temporary measure I ground the paint down to the metal underneath the metal casing that houses the fusible links and VR and have simply bolted the ground cables to this, however, I'd like to effect a more "permanent" and safe solution.

How do I remove the cowl?

I want to get in there so I can drill a new hole and essentially create a new ground stud and be done with it. I don't want to have to worry about a botched job.

I tried to remove the screws already, but it wouldn't budge... naturally, the windshield wipers were in the way.

It can't be as easy as removing those bolty lookin' things on the outside of the wipers can it? I've tried that before and the wipers refused... refused to budge.

[SteveJ]

I've had another incident.

Imagine, if you will...

I'm on my way to work and I'm getting off on my exit, as I approach my turn (I have the clutch in) I take a quick gaze across my dash and see that the red LED on my voltometer reads "charge" indicating that the engine isn't running. I look to my tach. and sure enough this is the case. I quickly turn over the starter and the engine fires back up.

I cruise down the street about 20 feet then take another turn, I press in the clutch and again, the engine dies. The only difference this time, is that all of the gauges on the dash are completely flatlined (no reading on the voltometer). So naturally when I tried to crank, nothing happened.

However, on the second attempt the power came back, the engine fired and I got to the parking lot.

The reverse trip home occured without incident.

... However, this has got me a little "freaked out" to say the least. The second occurance is leading me to think I might have an electrical issue here?

I'm also going to check my plugs in relation to the first "die out" incident. I just started trying out a lead-substitute additive, and I'm thinking if it's possible that it's gunking/sooting up my plugs faster than my minor oil leak/rich mixture usually does.

I want to go through my electrical contacts and clean them all up, however, I need a place to begin, so if someone has a diagram and/or walkthrough of connections I should clean up, I would really, really appreciate the help.

Thanks folks!

EDIT:

Please take into account the following:

The alternator was replaced 2000 miles ago.

The voltage regulator has needed replacement for a while now (replacement unit is chillin' in the passenger seat)

Battery terminals are very, VERY corroded (replacements for these were purchased directly following this incident).

My first question is why do you think it's electrical? Similar stalling can be caused by a bad EGR. I experienced this on a manual transmission car, and replacing the EGR cleared it right up.

While corrosion in the electrical system isn't good, the easy restart makes me think the source of the problem could lie elsewhere.

[TBK1]

Think we are missing something here, he said "everything flatlined, no readings"

Might want to check your fusable links and recrimp them and put back on, had same issue happen with mine!

[Doehring]

I had a similar experiance with my 3o00 ZX. The solution was the connection of the minus-cable to the battery. Sometimes a little push already helped.

[KDMatt]

Hrm, I'll probably replace some fusible links. I have a couple of "iffy" lookin' ones.

... However I'm at a loss for "EGR?" ... ??? I'm afraid I don't know to what that refers.

Also, can somebody please tell me how to get the air-vent/cowl thing off? I need to remove it to finish this project, like I said.

[Mat M]

EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation.

cowl, at least on mine, 5 or 6 screws from the engine bay side, and a tab locking each end near the windshield. You SHOULD be able to remove the windshield wipers by taking the end nuts off the wiper arm and wiggling the wiper off. You may want to use PB Blaster (penetrating catalyst) to work on the corrosion.

[KDMatt]

Hrm, okeydoke. Anybody got a pic of an EGR and it's location I can look at?

I have some PB Blaster, so I'll squirt some of that in the wipers.

... Also, where are the locking "tabs" and what do they look like? It's difficult to distinguish stuff on my car, seeing as a PO did a bad paint job and basically painted everything that wasn't glass, chrome, or rubber a silver color.