Overcharging! ... Oh snap...

[KDMatt]

Slap me on the hands, I've been bad.

I popped out my old, malfunctioning VR and popped in a brand new Niehoff one, thinking I was gettin' a steal (at a cold 35.99 where could I have gone wrong)... Except I forgot the first rule of parts buying: You get what you pay for.

Now my electrical stuff all seems to be...well... "hot" I guess.

I first noticed it when I pulled the key out of the ignition after a ... I dunno... 15/20 minute jaunt? The key itself was rather warm. I felt the ignition cylinder, and sure enough, that was very warm too. I felt the guages, and yes, those were warm as well, even my aftermarket stereo was warm!

I drove around some more, and before I knew it, the steering wheel itself was getting hot... I mean almost hot enough where I couldn't really touch it.

Concerned, I immediately whipped out my multimeter. I know that the guage in the car redlines at 16 volts. My multimeter tells me that at a good rev (over 3500 rpm) the electrical system is reading just under 15 volts. This leads me to think that perhaps too many amps are getting through?

My multimeter can only test 250 mA ... so I'm not sure if I can really test the system current.

This brings me to a statement, and then two questions:

The Nie-crap regulator's gotta go. What should I replace it with, and where can I get one?

MSA sells "Laser Light" ... claiming that's as close to OEM spec as they can get, any luck with these?

[240ZX]

Well, you can eliminate the old external VR by changing to a later model internally regulated alternator. Do a search for the details. A little rewiring at the connection point and adding a diode is about all that is required. I've done the conversion and is really pretty simple plus it provides less clutter in the engine bay. Just an idea!

[DeesZ]

Eliminating the external VR is a VERY good idea in my opinion. I replaced my external after the first one malfunctioned and burnt out every light bulb in my car (except headlights and one dash light), a fusible link, and melted a post on my fuse block. The replacement worked, but not to my satisfaction. I recently replaced the alternator with a 60 amp one I had in my pile of parts that is internally regulated. I used the adapter plug with the diode that's being sold on this site (sweet set-up!) The system now works much, much better overall, providing me with a much more constant and even power supply.... even with things running. If you are not insisting on "originality", make that upgrade soon. You will be pleased with the results. There are reasons that external regulators are no longer being used. Just my $0.02 for what it's worth to you.

John

[KDMatt]

Hrm...

... yes there have been some pretty strong arguments for the internal regulator upgrade. I suppose now is as good a time as any.

Who was it that was selling the adapter kit again? ... Also the internally regulated alt. from a '79 ZX should suffice, right?

EDIT

That adapter looks like it's only available to 240-owners... that doesn't help me ATM... I'll have to keep searching I suppose.

[a7dz]

The adapter is made for the 240 I do not know if it is what you are looking for but here is the link to the posts. Ask z ondbrain

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20571&page=5

[SteveJ]

You can get directions on how to do the jumpers for the 260Z & 280Z at this site: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html.