New Engine Start Up

[Marty Rogan]

I am just about finished installing my new, Jasper remanufactured L28. I was wondering if just filling the radiator with coolant gets enough coolant into the block for a start up. If not, how do you get coolant into the block?

When it is complete, my plans for start up and break in are as follows:

1) Make sure all fluids are there and not leaking. Plan on using 10w-30 Castrol

2) disconnect the coil and gas lines, leave the plugs out and crank the engine a few times to get oil circulating through the engine.

3) connect everything back up and start it.

4) check for leaks.

5) check timing.

6) let it warm up thoroughly.

7) Take it out for a drive in the country. Run through the gears under steady acceleration to 4000 - 4500 RPM to put a load on the new rings. Use the engine to brake a few times.

8) after 20-30 miles, change the filter.

9) after about 75 miles drain the oil and change the filter.

10) Continue driving as in 7) for about 500 miles and change oil and filter again.

Have I missed anything? Any other suggestions?

I hope to have the car back on the road Saturday!

TIA,

Marty

[hls30.com]

Filling the radiator will take care of the block, but leave the cap off, and as the water pump burps the system, back fill it.

On the start up, somewhere there was an adaptor for spinning the oilpump throught the distribitor drive that will prime the engine. if memory serves, it used a drill motor, and allowed for engine oil to be circulated before the major assembies started rotating-meaning all of them had oil before any being subjected to any rotational wear-but then, that assembly lube is for...

I have also heard tell of using synthetic oils, but maybe someone else has the knowledge to share if using them on initial startup(not as good for seating and break-in as conventional oil as I have heard) or replacing the startup oil with them after break-in(mixing/changing oils is not supposed to be a good thing either) would be the way to go. I have never used a synthetic oil,(or anything other than Castrol GTX) but it has been 10 years since I did a startup on a completly rebuilt engine.

Will

[ChrisA]

Hi Marty,

Your plan sounds all good to me.

Filling the radiator with coolant will put plenty into the block. I used to let the engine run till the thermostat opened with the radiator cap off. Then you can see the fluid level drop and then add more. Cranking the engine over with no spark is about the best way to get oil pressure unless you pre prime it with a pressure device. I use an old dizzy shaft with no gear on it. But you have to drop the oil pump which some would consider to much.

Have fun. I see Will beat me to it!

Chris A.

[Virto]

Rebuilding Your L-series Engine suggests that you not let the engine idle below 2000 rpm, to ensure that the cam is well oiled...this is assuming you have a new or reground cam.

Have fun turning her over, it's the day lots of us long for.

[Marty Rogan]

I have also heard tell of using synthetic oils, but maybe someone else has the knowledge to share if using them on initial startup(not as good for seating and break-in as conventional oil as I have heard) or replacing the startup oil with them after break-in(mixing/changing oils is not supposed to be a good thing either) would be the way to go. I have never used a synthetic oil,(or anything other than Castrol GTX) but it has been 10 years since I did a startup on a completly rebuilt engine.

Will

I have read from other posts here that you should not use synthetic oil til after 1500 miles are on the engine, so you do not prevent the rings from seating properly.

Marty

[Marty Rogan]

Rebuilding Your L-series Engine suggests that you not let the engine idle below 2000 rpm, to ensure that the cam is well oiled...this is assuming you have a new or reground cam.

Have fun turning her over, it's the day lots of us long for.

Thanks for the tips guys!

I have definitely been looking forward to turning her over!

Marty

[Ksteve]

Marty,

Make sure you confirm the cam is getting oil before firing it up.

I had my lovely assistant crank it over while I watched through the oil cap hole (plugs out of course) but got nothing after several long attempts. Primed the pump and checked at the presure sensor hole while cranking...still nothing.

Finaly found that my timing cover gasket was misaligned over the oil passages and the pump was just sucking air. After replacing the gasket and cranking it over for about 30sec I got a nice stream of oil comming out of the cam oiler bar.

I was sure glad I had not just fired it up and hoped for the best as my instincts told me to do.

Steve

[Marty Rogan]

Marty,

Make sure you confirm the cam is getting oil before firing it up.

I had my lovely assistant crank it over while I watched through the oil cap hole (plugs out of course) but got nothing after several long attempts. Primed the pump and checked at the presure sensor hole while cranking...still nothing.

Finaly found that my timing cover gasket was misaligned over the oil passages and the pump was just sucking air. After replacing the gasket and cranking it over for about 30sec I got a nice stream of oil comming out of the cam oiler bar.

I was sure glad I had not just fired it up and hoped for the best as my instincts told me to do.

Steve

Steve,

My engine has the P79 head with the internally oiled cam, no oil bar. I twould think you should still see oil spraying around in there though, wouldn't you? That's a great idea looking through the oil filler.

By the "timing cover gasket" do you mean the front cover? Or that small cover at the front of the cam? I would think it would be the front cover. I sure hope I don't have that problem. I really would not want to take the front cover off again!

This is all good info guys!

Thanks,

Marty

[Virto]

Steve,

My engine has the P79 head with the internally oiled cam, no oil bar. I twould think you should still see oil spraying around in there though, wouldn't you?

Yes, you'll still see oil flying about. The cam basically acts as the oil bar in engines with internal oiling. It's how I determined I had oil pressure when my gauge was acting goofy...not that they're very accurate when they work right.

Also, the 2000RPM instruction should last you about a half hour. Enough time to bring the engine up to temp and keep it there. You can go longer than that without hurting anything, but apparently not doing it long enough could cause problems...so better safe than sorry.

[Marty Rogan]

Yes, you'll still see oil flying about. The cam basically acts as the oil bar in engines with internal oiling. It's how I determined I had oil pressure when my gauge was acting goofy...not that they're very accurate when they work right.

Also, the 2000RPM instruction should last you about a half hour. Enough time to bring the engine up to temp and keep it there. You can go longer than that without hurting anything, but apparently not doing it long enough could cause problems...so better safe than sorry.

Hmm,

30 minutes at 2000 RPM? I am starting to hear some conflicting info here. A lot of people out there say to not run the engine at a constant speed. This could cause a groove in the cylinder walls at that RPM and could break the rings when you take it to a higher RPM later. Would idling at 2K put a load on the rings???

Is that a direct quote out of the How to Rebuild your L6 Engine Book?

A buddy of mine that is building a Mustang vintage racer got similar advice from a race engine builder. He was told to run the engine at 2000 RPM for 30 minutes. Then shut it down and let it cool completely over night and then change the oil.

Phred, you out there??? I would love to hear your onion on this.

Marty

[Virto]

I'm sorry if I caused confusion, it's 2000 and over for ~30 minutes. Specifically, he doesn't think letting the engine go under 2000rpm is a good idea until the cam is bedded in.

I'll check the book (like all Z stuff, it keeps me awake at the office) and get back tonight, but maybe somebody else has it available and can clarify.

[SteveK]

So I guess putting a completely rebuilt L28 (fresh everything) running it to the local drag strip (50 miles) and running several mid 13's isnt recomended then:stupid: