gas gauge accuracy, electrical or not?

[wal280z]

I appreciate it. $35 is music to my ears... I had looked at MSA and seen them quoted for $150 (for a '77 sender).

The difference in price may be due to the "low fuel indicator unit" that is w/ the sending unit

Quick questions as well... do you know if it's possible to pull the sender through the access hatch without dropping the tank (on a '77)? This would make life easy for replacement when the time comes. I know it's easier on the older Z's as the sender is removed from the side of the tank.

Yes, it is. I just finished this last weekend. A word of advice, use a blow gun to blow away all the debris from the unit prior to loosening the retaining ring and removal of the unit. I have attempted to repair/recondition two of these units (the metal winding for the resistance the guage reads) and figure the best thing to do is to purchase a new one. Either that, or I'm using the wrong method on renewing, but that's beside the point, the low fuel light doesn't work either.

FWIW,

Wayne

[dogma420]

If i don't find the correct connectors, I am going to soldier the wires to the sending unit; I have been told these sending unit connectors are soft metal, so I am going to try with one of these new 'cold soldier guns' they sell at Costco....

Picture: http://i24.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/44/62/39_1_b.JPG

My dad just got one, its in the package still; it has a tip like a soldier gun, but heats up and cools down in a split second and its really small and battery operated...I think this might be the ticket for a better than stock connection; I will keep you all informed and take some pictures this weekend.

Once soldiered, I plan on applying some liquid electrical tape.

I don't like to modify original, but if I can make it better than original (see-->last much longer) than I don't have any problems with it.

[Bambikiller240]

I've seen those Cold/Heat soldering pencils. They seem like a good idea for soldering on printed circuit boards, however, I have my doubts about their ability to heat the larger volume of metal (in things other than printed circuit boards) to a high enough tempurature to make a good solder joint.

Let us know how it turns out.

My original connectors have lasted for 35 years. At this point in my life, I know I won't be around for another 35, so........... geez I'm getting old!

[dogma420]

yes, I'll let you know, and I'll take some pictures as well.

Quick new question---I do have some surface rust on the very bottom of my tank on the inside--I would say enough to want to do something about it--the rest of the inside is just fine...

Sorry I don't have any pictures.

Anything I can do for this? It's really not worth getting the whole thing sealed, but could be the start of something worse...

Any ideas/experiences would be appreciated.

The POR15 tank liner guy---can you chime in with your experience a little more in detail...I'm thinking I may do that kit (blowing air through gas tubes right after however--lightly).

Or I might just leave it...after 34 years, if its only that little bit, I'd say that's pretty good.

[dogma420]

Since my rust is minor and just surface, I'm thinking of just using the Metal Ready product from Por15--actually just letting it pool inside the tank for a few days. sounds a lot easier and less expensive than sealing it.

[Bambikiller240]

You do unsderstand that applying Metal Ready alone provides NONE of the protection that sealing (either via POR Kit or any other method), it just neutralizes existing rust, right?

You can either do 1/2 the job, or do it completely..........guess which one I'd choose.

[beandip]

Dont let the metal ready stand for longer than 30 to 40 min. Check with escanlon he coated the tank on his '71 with the POR kit. He is away for a few more days . The Metal ready is crossive and shouldent be left over night. If you are not going to coat the tank , after you flush out the M ready , use a blow drier or heat gun to dry it out and pour some oil in the tank and slosh it arround to prevent further rusting , the oil wont bother anything when you fill with gas. I would suggest that you coat the tank though with POR . Gary

[dogma420]

Yeah, I'm still thinking about it. Thanks for the input.

It's so minor I was thinking of not doing anything, so I was thinking the metal ready alone would be ok...its really minor...it's just that i'm picky...so I may do the whole thing...or not...we'll see.