You'll never get a better chance to swap the gauge bulbs while you're there.You know I like to do it right and move on to something else!Have fun!! Daniel

Marty,You may wish to try cleaning the connections at the fuel tank sender before going to dashville.There are clips that attach there.I would hate for you to be working on the wrong end.Also I am somewhat sure the sender was calibrated based on the gauge.A test I suggest would be to make sure of the current reading say 1/2 tank with old gauge(when it works on a good day) and compare with new gauge. Let me know how it works out. Have fun Daniel oh yeah,Clean the oxidation from the nuts , washers and connectors that attach to your amp guage.I know.I'm anal:stupid:

couple of quick questions related to this thread--don't sue me, I did a search....

Just pulled my gas tank; my sending unit is going to be replaced, and I noticed that the PO jimmy rigged the contacts to the sending unit something bad....

1. what is the easiest way to get the retaining ring off of the sending unit so I can take it out?

2. noticed that normally, the female ends on the wires look sort of different; are these available through any source?

Thank you in advance,

Actually just figured out how to remove, with a screwdriver, hammered on one of the retaining ring grooves. (gently of course)

The female connectors on the ends of the wires? anyone know where to ge those? they don't look too standard.

Large flat blade screwdriver and a hammer.

Put screwdriver tip on one of the tabs of the locking ring, apply hammer to other end of screwdriver in order to rotate lock ring counterclockwise (I believe).

What I plan to do in hopes of replacing the connectors to the sending unit is to take the new sending unit to the parts store to see if I can find connectors that will work

Just pulled my semder as a part of my tank restoration. If you want to verify the accuracy of the sender, test with a multimeter. Using the black wire, and one of the yellow wores, yous should get 80 ohms of resistance when the float is in the raised position (meaning full), and 10 ohms of resistance when the float is in its lowest (empty) position. Pretty simple.... if the ohm test doesn't yield positive results, you will need a new sending unit.

These can clean up nicely if the wire wrappings a re in good shape. I used spray-on electrical cleaner to clean the contacts b/w the blade & wrappings. I also lubed the float hinge to allow for easy movement.

If you have a dremel, use a wire brush attachmment to clean the remainder of the assembly.

Beats the hell out of spending $150 on a new one (or any money at all).

Just pulled my semder as a part of my tank restoration. If you want to verify the accuracy of the sender, test with a multimeter. Using the black wire, and one of the yellow wores, yous should get 80 ohms of resistance when the float is in the raised position (meaning full), and 10 ohms of resistance when the float is in its lowest (empty) position. Pretty simple.... if the ohm test doesn't yield positive results, you will need a new sending unit.

These can clean up nicely if the wire wrappings a re in good shape. I used spray-on electrical cleaner to clean the contacts b/w the blade & wrappings. I also lubed the float hinge to allow for easy movement.

If you have a dremel, use a wire brush attachmment to clean the remainder of the assembly.

Beats the hell out of spending $150 on a new one (or any money at all).

Hello Steve:

Cleaning the wires of the rheostat is a good idea, but if they are rusty (a common issue in a 30 year old Z) they are likely to fall apart.

Any lube you put on the float hinge is going to wash right off as soon as gasoline hits it.

I can't imagine where you are buying tank senders. I've never paid more than $35 for a Nissan OEM one, including the one I bought last year.

Hi guys,

it isn't likely the matching connectors will be available, they sure aren't here in Oz. If you're dead-keen to maintain standard wiring and they look corroded or dirty, you could try giving them a clean with something. A dremel with wire-brush attachment or some emery paper would work for the male connectors and just give the female one's a bit of a crush so the edges overlap slightly rather than butt up against one another. That or just cut them off and replace them with any male/female terminals that are insulated.

Carl,

I appreciate it. $35 is music to my ears... I had looked at MSA and seen them quoted for $150 (for a '77 sender). Where are you getting your quotes... a Dealership?

Quick questions as well... do you know if it's possible to pull the sender through the access hatch without dropping the tank (on a '77)? This would make life easy for replacement when the time comes. I know it's easier on the older Z's as the sender is removed from the side of the tank.

Thx,

Steve

This thread is/was about 240Z's gas tanks and sending units.

I had no clue you were referring to a 280Z issue. FWIW, it helps if you indicate the car you are working on when asking questions.

I don't know anything about working on, or pricing for 280Z parts. Hopefully someone else can advise you. Sorry.

Well, thanks for the info Carl,

My issue is that the PO had just wire twisted the sending unit wires onto the stalks (I was wondering why my sending unit wasn't working too well)...

MSA sells the nissan one...I called Beaverton Nissan, the parts guy told me 'we're too busy, I'll call you back'...well 8 hours later I decided to order from MSA...$40 for my 72 240...so it was $5 more but hey, at least they took my call! Got a new o ring ($2) and retaining ring (~$3) as well.

Since the PO took off the original connectors, before I look, maybe someone on here can set me up when I go to the big ACE hardware here in Portland (with the sending unit in hand)...I would rather get original connectors, but I have never seen any that look like that...(see link below)...I was thinking of just soldiering my wires to the connectors (does it matter which connector goes to where? I do know about the 3rd wire being connected to chassis for ground)....

Any input would be much appreciated. By the way, there are 2 sending units, one for 70-73 and one for 74-78 so it is possible they are very different prices, but I don't think they are...I think the connectors are different, that's all...MSAs price is almost the same...where did the $170 quote come from? Heh...selling ice to an eskimo....

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2269

The connectors for the 71, 72, and 73 cars that I've owned look very similar to a female spade connector. They slide over the top of the "nubbs" on the sender unit. I'm going to try to find something that will work. If I can't find anything I will try modifying the old sender by soldering on wires and my own connectors (just toi make sure it works before I go and ruin the new sender) This will be an absolute last resort as I don't want to alter my car's wiring from stock