Pulling my hair out!

[Backnzagain]

Sweet!! Will do, test drive her and be back on here to let you know how it went.

[Backnzagain]

Well, I can't get the locknut to budge. Is it safe to use a little WD40 to loosen it up?

[madkaw]

Pushrod does sound logical but how are the brake lines,the rubber ones?Have they been replaced? I have seen old brake hoses that have broke down inside and act as a check valve and not allow fluid in one direction and restrict flow in another. Sound like what's going on is, either by the pushrod being out of adjustment and no where for the fluid to return, or somewhere else fluid is being restricted.

[DatsunZsRule]

As I recall the OEM Brake M/C was TOKICO on the 240-Z's and NABCO was OEM on the 280ZX's. Checking the Parts Catalogs that seems to be the case as well.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Well that warning about the two different makes of Master Cylinders (NABCO & TOKICO) is also listed in my 1977 280Z FSM so apparently both makes where available on the 280Z's according to my '77 FSM.

[Backnzagain]

Hey John, you hit the nail on the head! According to Haynes, which gave a measurement of how far the rod should be protruding, mine was way too far out! Even after adjusting its length as far as it would go, I ended up putting small spacers to adjust the length a little more. Worked like a charm, but I think I'm going to look for a different mc that has the flange that makes up that space correctly. At least I know now what it was and I have normal brakes Thanks for everyone's help!

[Carl Beck]

Pushrod length, pushrod length, pushrod length! You need to shorten the pushrod that sticks out of the booster because its not letting the piston in the MC retract far enough. Take the MC off and shorten the pushrod by one or two turns, being careful not to pull it out of the booster and causing the reaction disk to fall out.

Hi John:

While I have heard of this problem, I've never personally ran into it. Is this caused by getting the wrong M/C (right part number but wrong part in the box). Or is it a case of the wrong internal parts being used when the M/C was being rebuilt? Or is it caused because of the two different manufacturers brands (Tokico/Nabco).

thanks,

Carl B.

[280z1975]

While it sounds like you have found the problem I ran into a similar problem with my air in my brakes. The first problem were bad rear master cylinders on the drums, but then later I just couldn't get the car to bleed all the air out of the system. I finally had to take it to a shop which used a machine to force brake fluid into the system while pushing the air out. It worked great and solved the problem. I might have been bleeding the system wrong, but I doubt it as I tried it at least 12 different times throughout the whole process. By the end I was a pro at it. I used all the methods to (hand vac pump, bottle with rubber hose, etc).

[Backnzagain]

So far the brakes are working as they should. The pedal feels right, I've checked the levels on the mc and they look good too. I "think" this problem is solved but I sure would like a more solid mounting to the booster. But I can't complain about being able to drive her again

[theianmonster]

Just be glad you didn't have a seized drum, that was a nightmare!