Paint supplier

[sideshowbob]

Has anyone ever ordered from this place: http://www.paintforcars.com/ ?

I need some cheap paint and this looks like the way to go, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had experience with the place/paint.

[Backnzagain]

Hey there sideshow, did you end up ordering from these guys? I'm looking for the same thing, cheap paint for a daily driver. I want it to look decent but not cost a fortune.

[sideshowbob]

No, I heard a few negative reviews on some boards and in their ebay account about it and decided to go with smartshoppers when the car is stripped.

http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/modified-acrylic/custom-finishes.html

[beandip]

If you are going through all the work and trouble to strip and prep the Z , why in the world would you skimp on the paint ? Good paint is not that costly , if you want cheep , take the car to Maco or Schwab and be done with it . It will look pretty good and the paint will look every bit as good as what you are looking to buy. You wont need to go through all the work. I bought the best paint that PPG makes . Including all the sand paper and primer body filler, paint and clear, tape . Everything , it came to $700.00 . Now I know I could have done it much cheaper by not using 2 stage paint and I could have bought a lesser costly grade of paint but still good stuff. You get what you pay for with this stuff. If your car is in that bad of condition . There was a thread posted on this site about painting the car with a roller and brush then color sanding it smooth. Go to Home depot and go for it. Gary

[sideshowbob]

Don't get me started on the rustoleum job, I'd rather use lacquer. Hell, I even painted a scrap fender with it just for sh*ts and giggles. This stuff doesn't last in the elements like a decent, hardened acrylic enamel.

A great reason to use inexpensive materials is that this'll be my first whole car paintjob and if I need to redo it, it won't cost me an arm and a leg.

[a7dz]

Paints like every thing else you only get what you pay for. I don't know how you got to Rustoleum from what was said but, to each their own. I don't under stand your thought pattern if I screw up it will be cheaper?? How can it be cheaper to do it twice? Using cheaper products only makes the process that much harder? What have you got if you use a lesser product and do a great job?? A cheap job!!

By the way one of our farm trucks was painted with rustoleum seven years ago and has never been covered once again it has to be done right. I did not use a rattle can either.

[hls30.com]

A great reason to use inexpensive materials is that this'll be my first whole car paintjob and if I need to redo it, it won't cost me an arm and a leg.

The only real problem you have is recognizing and accepting that the "if" will be a "when".

Will

[sideshowbob]

I assumed that the roller and brush thread you mentioned was the infamous 'rustoleum' thread, if not nevermind.

The only real problem you have is recognizing and accepting that the "if" will be a "when".

No, no problem with that. It's always 'when'. The 'when' I'm talking about is having to redo it right away. I'm not spending anything approaching 700$ in materials for a first paint job, might as well have someone else do it and where's the fun in that?

[JimmyZ]

Look at PPG's "Omni" line. It's pretty cheap

1 gal epoxy primer kit $70

1 gal High build primer $70

1 gal MBC $95 -$150 (basecoat)

Can't remember the price of their clear but it might have been $15/qt

OR

You can be extra CHEAP and use ALK-200 which is a paint that runs around $25/gallon. It is Ready To Spray (RTS) BTW You'll still need some primer.

My 2 cents

Jim

[a7dz]

Tony;

Beandip has one beautiful car. Yes, you can paint it for alot less. The 700.00 dollar cost includes a lot of paint and rust preventive body work supplies. Remember that we are only trying to keep you from having to do it over. You can paint a z with a gallon of paint. I have used a quart of self etching primer to seal mine up. I will have a lot of money in mine but, I have taken it down to the basic unibody and removed all the rust that could be reasonably. Pickeled the parts I could not replace and coated it all with POR 15.

[sideshowbob]

That Omni paint certainly sounds reasonable, but that's a 2K urethane with the large amounts of iso-cyanates, requiring a fresh air respirator in addition to evrything else, yes? (with others, the disposable mask will usually do) Is the epoxy really neccesary? I'm looking at spraying a simple high build primer and laying on the enamel, then some clear a few months later. ~120$ for the whole thing, giving me money left for the equiptment I need to actually shoot it. Maybe I'll change my mind later, it's not moving till the end of the month anyway.

[EScanlon]

Tony:

You apparently already know what you want and know everything there is to know about painting cars and have tons of experience in painting with various types of paints, guns and techniques.

So why the lame arguments with those of us who, unlike you, have only painted a few dozen cars?

So go ahead, "save" your money, and find yourself re-doing your car; whether it may be because the paint didn't adhere, reacted with the base, has fish-eye, has dry line or orange peel, or.....

After all, you started this job by "stripping the car to the metal" because "everybody knows" thIs is the only way to get a good paint job. Right?

Do what you will. After all, the only reason we're trying to advise you is to help you save money. Sorry about that.

FWIW

E