Help, I need a mech in the Northern Va - Wash DC area that can install my carbs. I have a 73Z that had the original carbs (Flat Tops) on it Now gone, and I have since procured 2 sets of round tops. Both came with the manifold. Here are the questions I have.

1. Should I replace the intake manifold that came with the carbs or use the existing one already installed.

2. I know not to mix the round tops. However is there something I should look at to pick one set over the other?

3. Does any one know of a good mech in the area that I can take it to. I would rather do it my self but the wife forced me to put an addition on the house :tapemouth and I need the Z running so I can park it else where.

4. Was wondering if anyone would take it to a local tech school and have them do it as a class project? Education for them running for me.

1.) You can use any of the manifolds, but you need to watch for water passage mis-matches. Your flat-tops and the 3-screw round-tops from a '72 all had water passages in the base of the carbs. The 4-screw round-tops from '70-71 did not have water in the carb bases, just in the manifolds.

2.) There are no real performance reasons to pick one version of round-top over another. Assuming they are in equal condition (look for sloppy throttle shafts, non-sticky pistons and smooth nozzle movement), I'd go with whichever set give the easier installation. If one set has the water passages, you can stay with your existing manifolds, which makes it a simple swap. On the other hand, if you have matched round-tops still on their original manifolds, that might be the cleaner and simpler install.

3.) No idea here, I've only been to DC once, didn't meet any mechanics.

4.) I doubt you'll have much luck finding a school who wants to do it - they study injection these days.

I would keep the intake that is installed on the engine. You need the thicker insulate rs , the brown bake-a-lite parts, that fit between the carb and intake manifold . You also need the linkage that fits between the SUs that connect them to one another. With the intake that has the water jacket mentioned before . You must drain the coolant in the engine down below the level of the carbs . Otherwise when the carbs are removed coolant will run into the intake and into the engine. The swap is pretty much straight forward , but you will need to adjust the SUs to you engine combination . Like Arne said the Schools wouldn't be interested in working on the carbs because it is vary old technology. They are learning injection . Do a search on this web site there is all the information needed to do this swap and adjustment . Gary:)

Beandip,

I have seen several messages where you state "you need the thicker insulators". Why? I have SU's on my 73 w/ the thin insulators and it seems to do okay. What is the issue w/ thin vs thick here? Just curious.

Tx,

Bill

With our JUST SUs video or DVD you can be THE SU guy in the DC market. Not that anyone would want to be...... ;^) 503-587-9800

Also read the description on our Tune Up video for other engine related issues.

Keith,

I would recommend that you contact 'Dtsnlvrs' or Buck on this website as he is very well versed in the carb. installation. Additionally, if you have a chance, come out to the next No. Va. Z Car Club meeting which is held the second Wednesday of the month at Kilroy's in the Ravensworth Shopping Center off of Braddock Rd.

If you need help sooner, the Z club is planning a cruise out to Manassas on August 26th at about 5:00p.m. The Manassas event is held every Saturday during the spring/summer/fall at the Burger King located at the 234 bypass.

Beandip,

I have seen several messages where you state "you need the thicker insulators". Why? I have SU's on my 73 w/ the thin insulators and it seems to do okay. What is the issue w/ thin vs thick here? Just curious.

Tx,

Bill

Heat , they are just what they are named insulators . Help to keep he heat from the intake and head from the car base.