Door Lock problems...or are these normal?

[Pir0San]

So, I did some searching through this site, and figured out some info, but I still don't quite understand everything yet. My door locks on my Z operate just fine, but each door lock has a mind of it's own. On the driver's side, the door will lock as soon as the door is shut, meaning that I have to keep the key turned in order to unlock the door, and I have to hold the lock plunger up in order to exit the car. The passenger side door will not lock unless the door is shut (which from what I understand is normal for the 240Z's) and I can lock it from inside of the car, but if I try to lock it with the key, I actually bend the key and have almost broken the key off in the lock!

I'm not sure if this is the way that they are supposed to operate, so please set me straight!

[Arne]

Umm, no. That's not right. You have two separate problems, different for each door. On the passenger door, it sounds to me as thought the lock tumblers are jammed. On the driver's door, I'm betting there is a broken or disconnected spring in the lock/latch mechanism.

[Pir0San]

Umm, no. That's not right. You have two separate problems, different for each door. On the passenger door, it sounds to me as thought the lock tumblers are jammed. On the driver's door, I'm betting there is a broken or disconnected spring in the lock/latch mechanism.

any idea how to rectify these problems? I don't think the lock tumbler is broken on the passenger door, since it will unlock just fine, locking is the problem.

[280~Master]

Just like Arne said you have two problems.

Question Is your Ing key the same as your door or do you have seperate 2 keys? There should be 2 keys.

I would start looking for new locks for your car, unless you have tha ability to work on those locks then keep them and fix them. Start with replacing the locks and when you are in the drivers door replace the broken parts you find. You probly have a broken door lock. See item 3 in pic.

[Arne]

any idea how to rectify these problems? I don't think the lock tumbler is broken on the passenger door, since it will unlock just fine, locking is the problem.

Without seeing them in person and disassembling them to see what is wrong? No. You're either going to have to tear it apart to see what you can find, or pay someone to do so for you.

[Pir0San]

I have one key that works for both the ignition and the doors. Thanks for the exploded diagram, I'll take the door skin off again and have a peek inside, I may be able to fix the problem now.

Arne, thanks for the response, I'll tear it off again and take another look.

[EScanlon]

Just like Arne said you have two problems.

Question Is your Ing key the same as your door or do you have seperate 2 keys? There should be 2 keys.

I would start looking for new locks for your car, unless you have tha ability to work on those locks then keep them and fix them. Start with replacing the locks and when you are in the drivers door replace the broken parts you find. You probly have a broken door lock. See item 3 in pic.

WHAT???!!

If you can follow the logic in this, why not simply go buy a new car to fit the keys you DO have? After all, they are both NON-solutions.

The problem on the Driver's door

door will lock as soon as the door is shut

is occurring because somehow the lock mechanism INSIDE the door (and the key lock, nor the interior latch control this) has one of the rods that control it mis-aligned, or the adjustment for the door handle out of joint. In either case, the lever in the lock mechanism isn't traveling far enough to flip over to the "open" position.

The passenger door has a similar problem. Again the rods that connect the lock mechanism to the key lock and the latch as well as the Push/Pull Rod.

Or you could buy new doors with locks installed that match your keys.....:stupid: :stupid:

E

[sblake01]

Thank you, E! You see, I have promised that I wouldn't post that way but it's good to see someone else do it. So much bad information is given out here at Classiczx, er Classiccarsz.com.

[280~Master]

WHAT???!!

If you can follow the logic in this, why not simply go buy a new car to fit the keys you DO have? After all, they are both NON-solutions.

The problem on the Driver's door is occurring because somehow the lock mechanism INSIDE the door (and the key lock, nor the interior latch control this) has one of the rods that control it mis-aligned, or the adjustment for the door handle out of joint. In either case, the lever in the lock mechanism isn't traveling far enough to flip over to the "open" position.

The passenger door has a similar problem. Again the rods that connect the lock mechanism to the key lock and the latch as well as the Push/Pull Rod.

Or you could buy new doors with locks installed that match your keys.....:stupid: :stupid:

E

ok I'm lost now

E if the picture of the FSM did not work out or is wrong let me know.

He may have a rod broken or mis-aligned rod but yes the key cyclinder and the interior latch/remote control lock does have some control don't you think. I would still start looking for door locks and tear into the doors and find out what is wrong with them it could be as simple as the dovetail is broken or there is a piece missing.

Just a quick question E what does control the door lock in the door? little people from Mars?:eek:

I am thinking here and I am not trying to argue with EScanlon but trying to help out a fellow Zer. If the key portion works on the drivers side that is great but what would make the lock portion just fall like it was weighed down like a brick? All I can think of is the Door lock(item 3) is broken or the like E says the door lock is not going all the way over to the right possition. But wouldn't the door just open if that was happening or it would at least rattle like most of them do now days, due to miss alignment and a bad striker.

[EScanlon]

ok I'm lost now

E if the picture of the FSM did not work out or is wrong let me know.

The picture from the FSM, is NOT what was wrong with your post. That was the most constructive part of your "advice". In fact, it's probably the key piece that Prox will use to fix his locks, as I still think he has a misplaced or misaligned rod.

You initially started asking if there were 2 keys in his possession. Since he is able to open and lock the doors, the existence of the second key is irrelevant to the discussion of his misbehaving lock mechanisms....unless you're implying that he doesn't know the difference between the two keys.

He may have a rod broken or mis-aligned rod but yes the key cyclinder and the interior latch/remote control lock does have some control don't you think. I would still start looking for door locks and tear into the doors and find out what is wrong with them it could be as simple as the dovetail is broken or there is a piece missing.

Without seeing the actual lock mechanism (the part with the rotating latch) and specifically, the mechanism INSIDE the door as it operates and is operated by the rods from the interior latch and the exterior door handle it is grossly inaccurate to proclaim that the door lock mechanism is broken and needing replacement, which is exactly what your post said.

Tthe key lock mechanism (which by the way ONLY toggles a small lever which either allows the door lock to be opened or NOT) actuates the same lever as the interior pull handle, and specifically does not latch or unlatch the door lock. All it does is allow the door handle or the interior door latch to actuate the lock mechanism. The lock mechanism is a rotating "key" that grips the latch "hook" on the door body itself. The door handle and the interior door latch operate the door lock mechanism via the long rod visible in the FSM Drawing you provided and the adjustable length rod attached to the exterior door handle.

Just a quick question E what does control the door lock in the door? little people from Mars?:eek:

The mechanism is actually quite simple to understand once you take one out and look at it, but as with any sufficiently advanced mechanism it seems to be "Magic" to those who can't understand it, but trust me, there are no little people from Mars living in your door.

Besides, the air and the gravity aren't correct.

I am thinking here and I am not trying to argue with EScanlon but trying to help out a fellow Zer. If the key portion works on the drivers side that is great but what would make the lock portion just fall like it was weighed down like a brick? All I can think of is the Door lock(item 3) is broken or the like E says the door lock is not going all the way over to the right possition. But wouldn't the door just open if that was happening or it would at least rattle like most of them do now days, due to miss alignment and a bad striker.

Your intention to help is noteworthy, however, sometimes the best help when you're not sure what to do is to let others who DO know be the ones to respond.

If your advice were to be taken implicitly, then Prox would spend the next few days/ weeks looking for new lock mechanisms and spending money that may not be that plentiful.

So, I'm not "picking" on you, as you may have thought, but rather that your advice needed a bit more clarification rather than ... replace the locks.

That solution of simply replacing parts, is unfortunately too often the response to a problem, that with a little bit of investigation provides the knowledge to never bother a Z fan again.

FWIW

E

[a7dz]

Sounds just like the locks on my 70. Sat in the wet Northwest weather too long.

The lock assemblies on the Z car is no more then three springs, two sets of levers using six pivot points. Controlled by a set of long rods. One set of levers controls the latch and the other set the lock. Both lever sets must be free at all pivot points for the locks and latches to work correctly. They are independent of each other but, can not interfere with each other either. Which is what the problem with yours sounds like. Unless one of the springs are broken.

Enough of that. What I found with my lock assemblies was that the six pivot points were full of rust and dirt. I took the locks out of the door washed them off and oiled the six pivot points with PB Blaster let it sit for a few minutes and slowly worked the levers ( the rods attach to) until they came free. Took half an hour or so and now they work a good as when this car was new. Cleaned, repainted, oiled the pivots and stored the parts until the paint on the car is complete.

On the early series I cars there are no adjustable rods. The only place for the interference is between the lever assemblies common to the latch and where the rods go through the door.

my experience FWIW

PS I found no little green men in my doors either.

[280~Master]

Thank You E for helping me figure out my the situation. You are right I should have went into more detail. Sometimes I take forgranted people know about these cars and understand what should be done.

I'm glad there are no little green men in your door either, I have found traces of little red men eating the metal before on other cars. As far as the 2 keys. I was wondering about this due to just that reason. I have 2 keys and I can only start the car with one but can unlock the trunk, doors with either of them.