Door Lock problems...or are these normal?

[sblake01]

....... I have 2 keys and I can only start the car with one but can unlock the trunk, doors with either of them.

One key works everything on my 280. Sounds like the one that doesn't work in the ignition is a bad copy. A locksmith could probably clean up that one so that it would also work on everything.

[280~Master]

Stephen,

There are two seperate key patterns. I think my Ignition was replaced along the way. I am not worried about my 2 keys. I kind of like using 2.

[dogma420]

280 master---

There should actually be only 1 key for the whole car--something got replaced on your car. Don't give out misinformation.

[hls30.com]

280 master---

There should actually be only 1 key for the whole car--something got replaced on your car. Don't give out misinformation.

Read the second sentance in the previous post out loud-you obviously missed it! The entire post is about the situation in his car-not every 280z. I think you misunderstood what he was saying.

Will

[sblake01]

Stephen,

There are two seperate key patterns. I think my Ignition was replaced along the way. I am not worried about my 2 keys. I kind of like using 2.

Two seperate key patterns for what? You say that one key operates the ignition, doors and trunk and the other only operates the door and trunk. Sounds like your keys are seperate patterns but your car shouldn't be. If you are not worried about your 2 keys then that's fine. But don't cloud the thread with information that is not relevant to the problem being discussed.

[EScanlon]

Don't know about there being only one key on the vehicle.

Depending on Prox's build date he may have a late 71 vehicle that got titled as a 72 and as such does not have the reversible key for the ignition. Then again, the reference at Zhome regarding key changes in the Series II denote the change to a reversible key here:

"4. Reversible Key-for starter, steering lock and glove box. "

(http://zhome.com/History/New71Late.htm)

But there is no mention of the door lock key, so it is possible to presume that it is different from the ignition key.

I tried to find a reference for when the cars went to a single key, and it may have been after the Series III, but I couldn't find one.

E

[sblake01]

It's not Prox. It's PirOSan. That's what got me going about the single key. Proxlamus has a 280.

[hls30.com]

The earliest cars had 2 keys-a copy of a british ignition lock/key and the current style door lock-not to hijack the thread over the keys to Johns car...

Will

[280~Master]

Keys Keys Keys and more Keys. Lets just forget about my keys and the comments I have add to the thread. We have lost focus on PirOSan's problem. He has problems with his door locks E has set him in a good direction to fix his problem.

As I stated before

I would start looking for new door locks for your car, unless you have tha ability to work on those locks then keep them and fix them. when you are in the drivers door replace the broken parts you find. You probly have a broken door lock. See item 3 in pic.

PirOSan,

Have you been able to get to your door locks? Keep us updated on your problem.

[EScanlon]

Woops! Sorry Prox!

PirO, when you get the door panel off, you should be able to see the rods going to the outside door handle and the key lock. The Key lock rod connects to the same lever that the interior door lock pull connects to. It's function is very simple, it basically flips the lever UP or DOWN. In the Up position it allows the cam within the door lock to release the rotating cam. In the Down, it prevents that. It is still possible to force the lock mechanism if the lever is ~almost~ but not quite flipped.

The door handle has an adjustable nylon nut to change it's length from the handle to the lever it actuates on the lock mechanism. If that rod is set too long, it will actually force the door lock, which may be part of the problem with the key lock, as the lock mechanism has had the lever pressed against the door open part.

I'll see if I have a door lock available to take pictures.

When you adjust the outside door handle rod, many body shops adjust it so that there is little to no play in the door handle. This is done so that with very little pull on the handle the door mechanism opens. The problem with this is that the rod can actually be over-extended and actually pressing on the lock mechanism's lever. You also don't want the door handle to pop the door at the slightest lift.

The interior door handle is also adjustable, but it's adjustment comes from the location of the assembly and not by lengthening or shortening the rod, that is, by moving the handle forward or back. Again, you don't want a "feather trigger" handle.

E

[Pir0San]

Thanks guys. I haven't really had a chance to just sit down and figure it out, since I've been going to pick n pull and sourcing parts. I'll take a look at my door tomorrow if I get the chance, and take pics of what is going on inside. Sorry about such a vague thread, I'm just a novice when it comes to these door locks.

[280~Master]

Don't worry Jeremy we are all novices unless we helped design and build the car, but that would make use what in our 60's. No offence to you guys over 60/the hill RFOL. I would watch out for EScanlon though he is one of those guys that knows his chit.

When you get inside of the door you will see how everything works and we hope you find out what is wrong with it. Just keep us posted so we know what was wrong with your door locks.