Replacing floors...rubberized coating?

[Pir0San]

It's nearing the time where I am going to start prep on the Z for body and paint work. I've collected all of the pieces I need to start on the project, I just need to get the radiator support panel straightened before I start bolting everything on and jumping head on into the project.

So, while I'm preparing the Z for paint, I figure that the smart idea would be to fix the rust problems that my Z has. Luckily, since she's a California Z the only rust she has is under the battery tray, passenger side lower fender (next to door), driver's side floorboard, rear hatch area above right side taillight and then a little bit of bubbling on the rear doglegs, but it looks pretty minor, almost like pinholes that could be welded and ground flat. The floorboards are my concern, because I don't really know exactly how I should prep them. I am going to replace them with the kit from Zedd Findings, but what should I use to protect them from rust? I was considering using rattle can bed liner, but from reading here, it seems like that might not be the best idea. I also don't want to have to put the car on a rotisserie to coat the bottom of the floors, so I'd have to choose something that I could roll on from underneath (I know this was what you used Ed, so how well does it stick?)

So, what should I use to protect the fresh metal?

[Ed]

Personally, First I would properly apply POR-15 to the bare metal. Once that is done you could use just about anything to protect it from the environment.

Beware that rattle can rubberized undercoating is pourus (sp) so if that is all you use on bare metal you will have rust.

Be smart and do it right the first time.

[BD240Z]

I just finished sealing up my floors, inside & out. Here's what I did and I hope it's gonna keep the floor metal from ever seeing any moisture.

I removed the factory tar sheets, undercoating and paint with a variety of chemicals & tools. I then sand-blasted the inside floors and the bottom of the car, (yes, sand went everywhere in my garage).

After I weld repaired some rust areas on the floors I used Marine Clean & Metal Ready to prep the metal. I then applied three coats of POR-15 to those areas. Then I applied two coats of Ti-Coat primer to the POR. Then I scuffed the Ti-Coat primer with scotch-brite and then sprayed three coats of acrylic enamel over it. (I followed the instructions on all the cans to the "T").

I then applied Evercoats "Q-Pads" to the complete inner floor, transmission tunnel & firewall. Then I sprayed two coats of the same acrylic enamel on top of the Q-Pads.

The last thing I need to do is decide what to spray over the paint on the bottom of the car. I'm thinking rolled on bed-liner materials and then rubberized undercoating on top of that.

I recommend that you get some POR-15 on the inner rocker panels while you have everything out of the car. I also sprayed POR into the frame rails with an undercoating spray kit.

I'm hoping this will do it for my car and that I can claim that my floors are "rust-free".

Good luck with your effort.

Bruce

[Pir0San]

Thanks guys! I guess POR-15 is going to be a must! I do what to protect my car, so a little bit more money should hurt anything.

[Mike B]

Has anyone tried the clear color POR-15? In all the previous threads I've read it seems that everyone uses black even though it also comes in clear and other colors. I have some pretty minor rust on the floorpans, but I would like to coat them as a preventative measure. I think it would be better for resale down the road if someone could see what it looks like underneath rather than have it hidden by the black color.

[a7dz]

I just did mine in POR 15 black and then over coated them with the POR chassis black.

[Carl Beck]

..... hatch area above right side taillight and then a little bit of bubbling on the rear doglegs, but it looks pretty minor, almost like pinholes that could be welded and ground flat.........

Odd.. usually if it's only one side - its the Left Side of the hatch area that is damaged first.

Look at this: <a href=http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust/RustPrevention240Z.htm TARGET=NEW> Common Rust Area's Of The 240-Z <a> Pin holes on the outside mean big rust on the inside of the dog legs.

You may want to order the Patch Panels for the Dog Legs and replace them while you are at it.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[hls30.com]

I have used clear POR to make sure rust doesn't come back, it is every bit as good as the colored variety, and just as you allude, will take care of the area while leaving it "open" for inspection. Just make sure you try it on a piece of unimportant sheet metal first, getting the clear to show propery is a bit trucky(the sheet metal must be absolutely clean, and the rust must be gone, or it can look worse from the visual "wetting" effect of clear). Try it on a couple of pieces of scap first-you will be happier with your results with practice.

Will

[TVollnogle]

Here's a link to a company that makes bedliner coating and it's available in a smooth finish. I haven't used the product but they sent me a sample of it. I plan to try it on the bottom of my car.

http://www.durabakcompany.com/

Terry

'70 240Z

[Pir0San]

Carl, thanks for the link! I checked it out, and realized that I do have rust in the rear doglegs. The pinholes I referred to were actually on the lip of the rear wheel wells.

We'll just have to see now, wont we?