A dumb question... but...

[KDMatt]

I'm wondering how one checks the timing on these cars.

I've searched the pulley/wheels on the front of my block from top to bottom, and I can't find so much as a hint of any kind of permanent mark on there.

Even the local Z-guy was stumped (he couldn't find them either).

As you know, mine's a '76... what you don't know is this "local Z-guy" has an '81 turbo (and I believe he said he had a '77 and a '78(?) prior?) ...

Did the 76's leave the factory devoid of permanent timing marks... meaning... would I have to manually rotate the engine to TDC on #1 and use some chalk or something?

Also (adding to a string of simply answered questions) how do I rotate the engine without cranking the starter? I've seen this mentioned time and time again in manuals and how-to's but they never seem dumbed-down enough for me to understand how that's achieved.

The more dumbed down your answers can be, the better!

[MikeW]

There should be certainly at least one mark. On my 240Z there are multiple notches on the crank pulley and a single timing pointer. I believe that on later cars there is a single notch on the pulley and a timing pointer that has multiple markings in 5 degree increments. Can you even find the pointer? Do you have a factory service manual or even an aftermarket manual?

[FirstGenZ]

Use a 1 1/16 socket and breaker bar to turn the engine.

[240ZMan]

On my stock L24 engine the scale was on the driver side of the engine, and on the L28 from an '80 it was on the passenger side. I don't know what year it switched sides. In both cases it's attached with bolts that also hold the timing cover. I suppose it's possible someone before you "forgot" to replace it when they had the timing cover off. But it would sure make setting the ignition timing difficult. Unless they just did it "close enough".

Let us know what you find.

[Arne]

It varied from year to year, Nissan couldn't make up their minds how to do it. Of the three motors I have:

On the '71 L24 there is a single pointer on the passenger side of the timing cover, with multiple marks on the pulley.

On the '73 L24 there is a single mark on the pulley and multiple marks on a scale bolted to the driver's side of the timing cover.

The '83 L28 also has a single mark on the pulley, but the scale is back on the passenger side again.

[zack_280]

Take the valve cover off. Then jack the car up a few inches and using a 1 1/16 inch socket on the nut on the harmonic balancer pulley rotate the engine until the timing mark on the timing chain sprocket is lined up the with mark on the cam tower. If you really want to be sure you are at TDC you should remove the no. 1 spark plug and stick your finger in there (I had my wife do this once b/c my fingers are too fat) to feel when the piston is at TDC. You can also use a tie wrap or something but it's just not the same as actually feeling it. When you are sure you are at TDC you can use a red sharpie or some other marking device (perhaps a dremel with a grinding tip to make a notch) to mark the harmonic balancer pulley. Then put the valve cover back on, connect your timing light, start the car up and let it warm up to normal operating temperature and check your timing.

This is as dumb as it gets I think. Good luck.

[280~Master]

One thought that comes to mind. Do you have a 2 groove pully or a single groove pully on you car?

My 76 280 has one divit on the crank pulley and the timing pointer is on the drivers side. I would use Zack's way to set it up to the TDC then use something like a white paint marker or even typing whiteout to mark the pully.

[KDMatt]

I couldn't find any marks whatsoever when I looked... with the exception of what looked like some kind of writing ingraved on the inside of the crankshaft pulley.

In answer to your question "Master," I have a dual-groove pulley (I believe): One, the narrower groove, goes off to the alternator, and the other would have connected to two other pulleys (one is the air conditioning compressor... and the other... I have no clue... it looks like it's where a power steering pump would have been on a ZX L28). This second belt is absent, undoubtedly removed by a PO in a desperate quest for horsepower...

... not to say I mind some of the things this PO did... he did some good stuff, like dropping in a 5-speed and what I believe could be an R200 diff (not sure, but records indicate the diff isn't stock). However, I'm worried he may have toyed with the fuel-mixture and ignition timing too much.

... anyway, err... where was I..? ... ah yes timing.

I'm a total n00b when it comes to stuff like this... stuff that should be pretty basic. I understand the concept of ignition advance... it's just finding the damn notch and all that that's killing me. Also, I can't find any mention of "Harmonic Balancer" in the repair manual I've got in front of me... I may have to dig around in the many PDFs of the FSM.

I'm also thinking about taking some time to adjust the valve lash... It's one of those tedious things I've been putting off because it scares me a little... From where I'm sitting it seems like it'd be pretty easy to screw something up on a project like that (i.e. damaging a cam lobe or valve spring... or making the valve fall into the cylinder... etc.).

Also, on a slightly unrelated note, my car seems to be idling dangerously low when it's relatively cold... and by dangerously low I mean like 650 rpm... After it warms up it rests comfortably at 800rpm, but not until then...

[Pir0San]

The reason why you can't find the "Harmonic Balancer" is because I believe it is listed as a "Crankshaft pulley" instead.

Check your Idle Air Control Valve, or your Cold Start Injector for your idle problem.

[sakijo]

Yeah, Zack's way is the "correct" way to bring it up to TDC. If your finger won't fit into the spark plug hole, and you don't have a willing wife, just stick a screwdriver in there (carefully!). I'd definitely make some kind of small groove with a dremel or even a file and paint it. The reason for the groove is that the paint does wear off and you don't want to repeat this process.

[280~Master]

KDMatt,

When it comes to adjusting the valves it is not all that hard. You can mess things up but follow some instructions. I learned by just getting in there and trying it myself. I don't recomend this for anyone unless you are brave. You are not going to drop a valve into the cylinder unless you are taking this area apart. You should get an extra hand, it makes the job so much easier and quicker.

[SavannahZ]

I would start with adjusting the valves cold until you're comfortable with the procedure. After that, move onto doing it hot after a fun run. I too was a bit scared about it until I actually did it. It's amazing how often that's the case when working on cars.

There is a website out there where a gentlemen thoroughly described all steps and included pictures. I'll see if I can find it...or maybe someone else had it saved?