Personal Dumbassery; Confirming Upgraded Alternator and Arne's Adaptor Connections!

[EScanlon]

Since the Oil Pressure gauge needs to have pressure in order to register something, how is it you've confirmed that it works? These tests were done with the engine at slightly higher than idle rpms, weren't they? The Z's engine is notorious for having really low oil pressure at idle.

As far as the grounding, I may be off base on that, as I've not had one go bad on me for me to effect the same tests. I mentioned grounding it as that would essentially eliminate that component from the circuit and allow the gauge to show what a full ground would be (i.e. no resistance to ground). It may be that the oil pressure sensor actually increases resistance as the pressure increaes.

While I can't discount the wiring, the Alternator / VR adaptor wouldn't normally have an effect on the oil pressure sensor....unless it burned out due to the (presumably) better current.

E

[Arne]

No Enrique, you were right the first time, the sender provides a decreasing resistance to ground as the pressure rises. I have tested mine that way to verify that.

[Duffman]

Arne and Enrique, I have connected the "spare" wire up to the adaptor and took the car for a drive to see if the ammeter is working. Unfortunately, it is not (no gauge movement when putting electrical stress on the system) . Both my ammeter and oil pressure gauge are not working, as before.

Could not having the "spare" wire connected to the adaptor, as it should have been, have caused any problems with my internal regulator in my alternator? Could it have caused something else to "short" out or get screwed up?

Thanks,

Stephen

[EScanlon]

Ouch!!

Yes that one White wire carries the full load of Positive voltage from the Alternator / Regulator directly to the fusible link right by the starter and from there to the whole electrical system. In essence your car's complete electrical system would have been operating on power from the battery ONLY.

As to whether this could have fried something in the internal voltage regulator....could very well have happened. For that matter you might also have fried the V/R Adapter's Diode.

Hope that's not the case, but you might be able to take the Alternator into a shop and have it tested and the internal V/R as well.

Enrique

[a7dz]

I have a couple of questions first where did the alternater come from? Was it tested before you put it in the car? WHY ARE YOU UPGRADING? Did your old alternator work? I know that I am going to change mine as well but, the wiring and alternater in my car works. Having worked aircraft electrical systems for over thirty years I will tell you that just because it is new does not mean it works!!!! Chased a problem down to a part changed it and still had the same problem. Will make you tear your hair out. Does it happen often no thats why it bites so hard when It does. How old is the fusable link? The extra amperage may have blown it as well. I know I am just going to change mine. Having the wire disconnected from the adapter should not of caused you to hurt the alternator. If you miswired it that is a whole nother story.

I agree with E. have the alternator tested and go from there. Next make sure the wiring on the car is correct and test fusable link.

[Duffman]

Thanks, guys, I will check the fusible link (haven't done that yet) and will check the alternator and VR after that. As I said, everything works fine except for the oil and ammeter gauges being non-functional. The battery seems fine; checked the level and is holding over 13 to 14 volts, even with stress.

Jim, I upgraded to an internally regulated alternator to add some additional "accessories" to my vehicle down the road; A/C, stereo, etc. Seems the right thing to do, IF you hook everything up correctly, which I am thinking I will find I haven't due to my current situation.

Keep your fingers crossed! Will let you know what I come up with!

Stephen

[Duffman]

Apologize in advance for my ignorance, but am looking for the fusible link near my starter and I found the enclosed picture. You can see a Ford Motorcraft relay or something before the starter that a PO installed. Any clue what this is for? I can't find the fusible link, or I am looking at the wrong spot! Help!!!

[Arne]

It looks like a previous owner has added a relay to the circuit that energizes the solenoid. No idea why someone would do that, as the solenoid itself is just a big relay.

The fusible link is just a special wire, which connects to the same lug on the solenoid as the positive battery cable does - it is about 6 inches long and plugs into the harness. In your picture, it is black, looks like to me.

[Duffman]

Thanks, Arne, the adventure continues ...

[Duffman]

Stupid comment/question # 46: the term "fuseible" link to me means a wire with some means of a breaker, or fuse, in-line to protect one's system due to a power surge, etc, however, I see only a wire with a paddle connection surrounded in rubber. Am I missing something? How does this stop a surge?

Thanks,

Stephen

[MikeW]

Stupid comment/question # 46: the term "fuseible" link to me means a wire with some means of a breaker, or fuse, in-line to protect one's system due to a power surge, etc, however, I see only a wire with a paddle connection surrounded in rubber. Am I missing something? How does this stop a surge?

My understanding is that a fusible link is really just a wire. The key is that it's a wire that is about 4 gauges smaller than the rest of the circuit (making it the weakest link) and has a special non-flammable insulation for when it melts.

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml

[EScanlon]

The only reason I can think of to add that solenoid to the starter circuit is if there was a problem getting power to the starter....

Anyhow, see the attached photo.

E