ZX Dizzy Connections

[zack_280]

There are two connectors on the 'Black box' on the side of the ZX dizzy. They look like this |- . I bought a reman model from Autozone and it does not label them as B or C as is supposedly shown on the E-12-80 module.

I have seen two wiring diagrams, one on jrdremers and the other on the technical section here. My set up will be the same as the tech article complete with the MSD connections. However, they don't agree.

Tech article link http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13085&highlight=distributor

Could someone please tell me if the 'top of the T' or the 'stem of the T' is the B connection?

Thanks,

[jfairladyz]

The top of the T is 'C'

The stem of the T (or bottom) is 'B'

[SavannahZ]

Just a supplement to what jfairladyz posted.

I took this off this site: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

[EScanlon]

Whoa there SavannahZ....that set up won't work with a 240 tach NOR with the MSD coil. There's a notice within that article that spells it out:

A 240 tach may not work with this setup since it's inductive pickup can no longer connect to the coil. Replace it with a 75-78 280Z tach and connect the tach sensor lug to the - terminal on the IC module. If the tach jumps around, solder a 7500-10,000 ohm resistor inline with the sensor wire to reduce the signal voltage. If it still won't work buy a Autometer #3990 black face tach.

WARNING: if you have a MSD or Crane, DON'T hookup the module or tach directly to the coil. The 450 volts can fry it. Follow the ignition's hookup guide.

The Tech Article you posted Zack, has the correct connections for a 240 Tach and the MSD.

E

[zack_280]

Thanks again to all. I have connected everything per the instructions in the tech article. However, I still seem to be having a little problem. It is having trouble starting. When I hook up a timing light it is firing like crazy. I have never hooked up a timing light while starting, but I wouldn't expect to see it firing like that. (Also as far as I could tell it looked like the timing was way too advanced) But like I said I couldn't tell for sure that the marks were in the same place every time the light picked up.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again.

[SavannahZ]

I didn't realize he had the MSD setup. However, atleast with my setup, the tach works fine following the diagram I posted. Hopefully, he can see what the connections are labeled as...which was my intention in the first place.

As far as your car firing but not starting, I had the same problem when I did this upgrade and it turned out that I had the two wires for the removed ballister resistor tied together. I put them, not touching, onto a male/male spade connector and the car fired right up. A shot in the dark, but that's what stumped me.

[=Enigma=]

I had a problem starting mine as well. It turned out that I had the C(coil) wire on the wrong side of the coil. Glad I didn't fry anything in the process.

[EScanlon]

Jonathan:

The two wires going to the Ballast Resistor are part of the Tach Sensor Circuitry as well as power to the Coil through the Ignition Switch. If you remove the B. Resistor without connecting those two wires, neither the engine nor the tach will work.

But aside from that, the problem with ZGarage's diagram is that it is SPECIFIC to the One Wire Sensor Tach (280) and will not work at all with the 240 Tach (Coil Loop Sensor). This has been presented several times before and that distinction is something that needs to be noted as it causes problems time and time again.

FWIW

E

[zack_280]

SavannahZ,

Are you saying that you disconnected the two wires that were originally connected to the resistor? Or are you saying that you connected them through a male/male connector as shown in the tech article diagram?

[SavannahZ]

Zach,

I disconnected the wires when I removed the ballist resistor completely since the new coils have an internal resistor. I took the two wires that were connected to the resistor and put them together on a male/male spade connector. In the end, they are connected...just not touching.

I remember reading about how my tach might or might not work when I was researching this upgrade a couple years ago. I always read conflicting reports of one guys working and the next guys not. One had to upgrade to a 280 tach while the others left their 240 in place. I didn't know if mine was going to work until it did from what I had read.My wife is out of town with my camera, so I can't take a pic at the moment.

It has been a couple of years, but I'm pretty sure I followed the directions in the pic I posted.

If it's not running by Thursday morning-ish and you want me to send you some detailed pics of how I wired everything, I would be more than happy to do so.

Good luck,

jonathan

[zack_280]

Here's an update.

Well, it's not running yet, but I think I got my dizzy problems worked out. While cranking it I hooked up my timing light and it was showing about 25-30 degrees retarded. I'm not really sure why, the tang seemed to be lined up pretty close to where it was supposed to be, but whatever. I just decided to drop the oil filter and rotate the spindle until the rotor button lined up with a point. I ended up moving the plug wire to the No. 1 cylinder over two places.

The attached picture (if it works) shows the original orientation of the tang. The new orientation is almost parallel to the line of the car (front to back).

P.S. How do you like my homemade timing marks (in red next to the notch I put in the wrong spot with my dremel, doh!).

[=Enigma=]

I ended up moving the plug wire to the No. 1 cylinder over two places.

Ok, that's scary. Somebody help this guys out.