Hi there I hope somebody is out there

I am trying to Carry out the ZX Alternator swap on my 1975 280Z

Here is the problem

Alternater is up and the connections are back on

one is supposed to connect the White wire to the Yellow wire and the Green wire wuth the Red trace to the White wire with the Black trace.

There is no green and red wire.!

Help!!!!!

Send a PM to Arne , maybe he can advise you . Gary

thanks for the advice Beandip

Message sent

If you dont have the GR wire do you have a solid L (blue) wire? The GR wire became a solid L in later models. see attachment.

JfairladyZ

Negative I have neither a green and red nor a blue wire.

The nearest I can tell the green and Red wire should have originated at the safety interlock on us models

I'm Bummed

thanks all the same

Bloxman

can you make up a quick diagram of how you have it wired up as of right now?

sure no problem take your image and remove the male clip (from the voltage regulator) cause i never got a voltage regulator with the car.

As this would be hard to get a replacement for and a step backwards in my mind anyhow I mean internally regulated is where it is at.

Every thing else stays the same accept where your image shows the blue wire my wire is supposed to be Green with a red trace.

Accept that it is conspicuously abscent.

Connecting the green&red to white&black so... the lamp to windings common.

my #1 wire is abscent.

There is even a very tidy looking clear plastic plug inserted in from the back side of the engine side of the voltage regulator harness (looks Factory)

I'm

Bloxman

Ok, no GR wire? No problem. Here's what you have to do. You need to run the WR wire (that would've gone to the GR) through the charge lamp and then on to an ignition hot source. If you experience run on with that setup then you simply need to install a diode into that circuit so the alternator doesnt feed the ignition after shutoff.

If you want to make it really simple then just run the WR wire straight to an ignition hot source at the fuse box and put a diode inline. Without wiring up that WR to an ignition source though the alternator wont charge. If you go with the first option I outlined then you'll retain the charge indicator (if non-US were equipped with it) and if you go with the second option then you wont have a charge indicator lamp.

You dont have the GR (or G or L on other models) because it was a US only feature according to a couple different schematics I went over. It led to an ignition interlock on US models (which non-US models didnt have).

jfairladyZ

What ? O.K. so I think I get it . Crimp a wire (Green and red might be a good idea) and feed it through the firewall to the charge light that lights when you turn the key forward (acc) but before you start.? then run it back to the Fuse box and fasten the wire to a terminal holding the fuse for the ignition.

Have I got it?

Sorry I haven't looked at the board for a cople of days I have got a winner of a cold.

I might even take tommorow off work. well at least the morning. I cannot breed!

bloxman

Thanks again jfairladyz

I'll let you know how this turns out.

how hard was this swap? i used a 105amp alternator from Z Specialites and it was very easy for me to install no splicing or cutting. DIRECT BOLT-ON. the only thing was i had to disconnect my external voltage regulator and the T-plug that went on back of the old alternator. I just taped these ends off to prevent damage.

jfairladyZ

What ? O.K. so I think I get it . Crimp a wire (Green and red might be a good idea) and feed it through the firewall to the charge light that lights when you turn the key forward (acc) but before you start.? then run it back to the Fuse box and fasten the wire to a terminal holding the fuse for the ignition.

Have I got it?

Sorry I haven't looked at the board for a cople of days I have got a winner of a cold.

I might even take tommorow off work. well at least the morning. I cannot breed!

bloxman

Thanks again jfairladyz

I'll let you know how this turns out.

Yeah thats it.

Sorry to resurrect an ancient thread, but this is directly related to my problem.

I also have a '75. For whatever reason at least some of the '75 cars only came with 5 wires at the VR connector. It is indeed the GR wire that is missing. I connected the green wire (6 in the diagrams you always see) to the black/white wire (5) and the yellow (3) to the white (2). It seems that, on my car, the green wire is what is supposed to be the green/red wire (switched 12v through the charge lamp). I get a solid 14.3v now out of the ZX alt., but the car keeps running after I turn the switch off. It stops running when I pull the "T" connector from the back of the alternator. I am going to try installing a diode in line, but is the 280 not supposed to be immune from this issue? There was a small canister looking gizmo (technical term), much like the one on the alternator, that was attached to the stock coil, but I now have an aftermarket ignition on the car without it. Is that why I am getting run-on?

FYI - even the 1975 factory service manual shows there being a GR wire in position "1" on that connector. In reality there is a plastic plug on the back side of the "1" position on my car, leaving only a 5 wires total.

Edited July 30, 200915 yr by venom42