Rust-free Floors in a Z??????

[cbudvet]

Along the same line. I have a 71 240z that is my "donor" car. It was an Arizona car so no major rust (I hope). Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove those tar like insulating pads? I have been able to chip some off with a chisel and tried goo b gone and bug and tar remover to little success. Thanks.

Carl

[hls30.com]

There are a ton of threads about that, here are a few...

Will

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16546&highlight=dry+ice

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20051&highlight=dry+ice

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18888&highlight=dry+ice

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18231&highlight=dry+ice

[Mike B]

The before and after pics are night and day. Good results. I used the regular POR-15 so far on the bottom of my floors' date=' does the clear stuff leave that high gloss after its done? or is that the camera flash?

Zak[/quote']

Thanks everyone for all of the great feedback.

Zak, the clear does leave the high gloss finish. I'm not sure if the other colors do as well, or just the clear. I think they have a flat version of the black. The POR-15 instructions have the following guidance regarding which formula to use, "Silver contains metal filler and should be used in badly rusted, pitted areas. It will fill in holes better than black or clear. Black is generally used on frames, underside of fenders, etc. because that's the usual color there. Clear renders the smoothest finish and is often used as a preprimer on exterior surfaces. Grey is great on concrete floors, bilges, and storage areas."

[a7dz]

Mike;

Good to see there is a good set of floor pans out there. I was beginning to wonder. Any way great job. Glad to see you took the time to fix this so early. I have used both the flat and the shiny black POR15 and prefer the shiny as it has a smoother surface. Will be easier to keep clean.

[ktm]

They underside of the floors are treated with factory undercoating, so I am less worried about them at the moment. I will have to check them out further when I have the time, but from what I have seen the undercoating looks to be intact.

Trust me. Take a good, long, hard look at the bottom of your floor pans. Do it. My car (1972) has both the factory and aftermarket (Ziebart) coating. I too thought my pans where in great condition until I happened to notice some minor cracking in the Ziebart. Upon closer inspection, I discovered some rust on the bottom of my pans. No surface rust, more rot rust.

The undercoating is great stuff when relatively new, but it does start to crack. These cracks allow water to accumulate which promotes the rot rust.

I am in the process of stripping off all of the undercoating on my car, starting with my wheel wells (my entire front suspension/steering is in pieces) and pans. The metal in the wheel wells looks damn near brand new.