Looking for advise/suggestions 77 280z EFI

[v_balge]

My car hesitates and dies after it warms up. Car will start without a problem, even if it’s been sittings for weeks and idles fine. As soon as the temperature gauge starts to move the idle gets rough. I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking along with the idle hesitating and then engine dies.

If I let car cool down it will start and idles fine.

I’ve taken all of the under hood & under dash connectors apart & cleaned them. I don’t think it’s the fuel pump because it shouldn’t be affected by engine heat. It could be a bad ground but why when it’s warm?

Anyone experienced anything like this before? Any ideas on what to try next?

Thanks

Vince

[sblake01]

Check your temperature sensor's resistance before and after warm up. This page shows the precedure.

[hls30.com]

also check your ignition module, a bad one can cut the car off when it gets warm and let it run when it is cool. Might not be the issue, but better to prove it isn't than ignore the possability and later find out t is.

Will

[sblake01]

Good call, Will. I've experienced the problem he describes in my 810 and it turned out to be a bad temp sensor and it acted the same as his car is acting except for the clicking relay which kind of left me scratching my head.

[v_balge]

Well I couldn't get an ohm reading from the temperature sensor so I took it out of the car. After cleaning the contacts with sandpaper it worked. Did the tests hot & cold & I think it works. Put it back in the car & started car up. Just as it started to warm up the fuel line after the filter split & started spraying gas over the engine. Luckly no fire. I'm off to get new hoses.

Vince

[sblake01]

Well, if you couldn't get a reading until you cleaned it that should solve your problem since that's the same scenario I experienced with my 810. I cleaned the contacts and the problem dissappeared. I always keep some extra 5/16 fuel injection hose on hand for just in case.

[v_balge]

Thanks Stephen!

Car now idles fine after warm-up. But now it's sprung a leak at the fuel rail.

O well one problem at a time.

Thanks for the advise.

Vince

[webdawg1]

Might want to go ahead and do all the fuel hoses while you're in there anyway....Might not be so lucky next time......could be on the road somewhere...and far away from help...and and all you'll be able to do is watch her BURN...........

webdawg1

[drivinmenuts!]

I Am Working On Trying To Get 77 280z Running After Sitting In Garage For Over 20 Years ,only Has 8000 Miles On It. I Have To Control The Afm By Hand To Get It To Run. I Printed The 77 Page Efi Manual And All The Test Came Out Satisfactory This Weekend,now I Am Stumped And Still Reading Everything I Can Find On This Sight,have Done Alot Of Reading This Weekend Too!!! Has Anyone Ever Been Threw This One? Drivinmenuts!

[ecp48]

Driveinmenuts,

If you are saying you push the flap valve open to make the engine run/accelerate, then you have a massive vacuum leak between the AFM and the Throttle plate.

I had it happen one time after jacking that side of the motor to replace a motor mount. It pulled the rubber bellows off the intake side of the AFM, looked fine from above, but the bottom of the hose was way off the connector.

[drivinmenuts!]

Yes That Was My First Instinct Too,so Then I Sprayed Carb. Cleaner On Every Gasket,fitting,and Possible Place That Air Could Get In To The Intake All The Way To The Haed I Have Taken Every Hose,bellow.piece Of Rubber Off And Inspected Or Replaced It Too. Now I Am Pounding My Head Against Everything To Try To Figure This Out! I Beleive That It Is Going To Be So Simple That I Will Throw Every Tool I Have Out Side And Go Back To Simpler Things! What Ever Happened To Good Old Carb, Days?

[sideshowbob]

Please Stop Capitalizing Every Word. It sounds as if you're running extremely lean and opening the flap is compensating by pouring in more fuel. Check fuel pressure and the injectors for proper spray pattern. When's the last time you changed the fuel filter?