Jump to content
We Need Your Help! ×

IGNORED

Driving Light Mounts ~ Safari style


Zedrally

Recommended Posts

Guus,

I couldn't help but notice the neatness of the Driving Light mount on your car.

Much improved to the version that I'm using!

The photo in the Rallaye Video Thread looks great, could I ask you for some close ups of the mount and possibly a explaination as to how it's made?

I've started a thread for this so any info on the subject remains together.

TIA:cheeky:

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Guus,

I couldn't help but notice the neatness of the Driving Light mount on your car.

Much improved to the version that I'm using!

The photo in the Rallaye Video Thread looks great, could I ask you for some close ups of the mount and possibly a explaination as to how it's made?

I've started a thread for this so any info on the subject remains together.

TIA:cheeky:

you answer is coming but give me some time

Guus

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mike,

At the risk of pre-empting Guus's reply to you - do you mean the bumper on his car?

I think Guus has replicated the Works "Monte Carlo" bumper that was homologated for Group 4 competition use in January 1971 ( and backdated to Sept. 1971 ) and then seen on the Works Monte Carlo rally cars. Part number in the Sports Option catalogue was 62650-E8700, and the bumper mounting irons were also listed with different part numbers to the "stock" items.

In Japan, they have always called this the "Monte Carlo" bumper - but I have heard Europeans call it the "Drop" bumper, so it has a different nickname in different territories.

It allowed the Works team to put the spot and fog lamps somewhere that was fairly protected, and from projecting too far in front of the car. Apparently it did not interfere with cooling efficiency even with a full complement of Koito spots and fogs.

Here's a pic. of the FIA / JAF homologation paper for the bumper:

post-2116-14150792054846_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow,

You Guys are un-believable. Homlogation papers as well!

Alan, I'.m unable to enlarge them [make readable] from the thread. Any chance of you sending me a copy direct?

Guus, I'm still interested in your mount and the method of manufacture.

What elde can you pull out of the hat!

:bunny:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Zedrallye,

I just wanted to send a copy of the Homologation to Alan Thomasas a "thank you" for a 280ZX picture he sent me. Now I saw he already has it and I have find something else. But that's why I just have it in front of me:

The Homologation for the 240 Z is signed by the Japan Automobile Federation and has the F.I.A, (Federation Internationale de l'Automobile) Recognition No. 3023. It has 45 pages where you can find all the goodies that were homologated by Datsun/Nissan in accordance with Appendix J to the international sporting code for Group 3 and 4 in the seventies.

I think you can get it from your national motorsports association (if it's a member to FIA) or from Nissan or Nismo or the japanese federation. I got mine from the nat.german sportsauthority and it is specially marked so that pages can't be changed. Try to get it, it's full of technical help what's allowed, also for historic rallying or racing with our Zs. Guus' bumper is at page 18.

Rolf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

After last weekend I've become motivated again and would like to finish the front light rail on my 240.

Just a couple of questions first.

Guus, what size lights are you using?

Are they all the same beam pattern or are you using a combination?

The Hellas that I have are 170mm 100amp Pencil Beam.

I'm tempted to match them with Narva 150mm 100 amp Spread Beam, mainly beacuse of price considerations. [strange that there is a price difference, especially when one considers both originate from Germany?]

TIA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What did you do you got motivated?

The sizes of the lamps are 140 mm Lucas. Two fog lights and two beam light. At the time I bought these lamps I though they where appropriate for the job. Now I’ve seen the big boys on stage, I doubt. But nevertheless my first intention was to make a replica, my second thought is now to drive rally’s but not the kind you do, those are the speed ones.

But to get an Identity Card from FIVA (you need one to drive the rally’s) you have to prepare your car in a state that I’m beyond. My car is too obvious, to noisy (allowed 97db), etc. etc. but that’s another story.

Now we proceed with the making of the Monte Carlo replica bumper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Let me tell you first, it was a lot of puzzling.

First thing to do is, cut your pressures bumper in three pieces. The place to cut is best seen at the picture.

After that, you have to reshape the left and right bumper stay.

I used a sledgehammer because the metal is rather thick. You have to shape it in a way it will align with the cut of corner of the bumper. If you are convinced, it is all right, cut of the corner of the stay, and weld it the other way around.

Now it can hold the corner-bumper piece. NOTE: You have to measure the angle before welding.

post-1340-14150792156765_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Result: you should be able now to bold on the corner-bumper at two places.

One at the normal place at the rear and one at the just created 'new' stay in the font.

Next: the middle part.

Now the corners are bold to the car we can measure the dept of the bumper and the whiteness. I used two metal strips for the vertical connection, about the same thickness as the stay.

You have to work with grippers to keep everything together.

post-1340-14150792156968_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you got the vertical ‘depth’ you are able to measure the wideness.

For that piece I used a hooked (?) metal again about the same thickness as the rest.

I’ve got TR4 rosettes (overrider) to give the bumper its massive looks. But you also have to shape these rosettes. Just now a welder is busy to weld a piece of metal at the rear-end so it will get a depth of at least twice the bumper ‘thicknesses’.

Hopefully the pictures say more than my words. Success with the making off……

post-1340-14150792157154_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have to make sure the lamps fit between the grille and the hood when this one opens!!! If you go to the Ypres rally pages below this story you will see two examples of hiding your lamps. Tony Fall had no grill anymore and therefore enough room for his lamps. Dominic has a fibre hood and did not have the problems, if had. Because he takes off his hood in one piece.

post-1340-14150792157396_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 548 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.