Making the page I wish I had before doing any repaint/restoration...

http://warbuddies.homestead.com/RestoHelp.html

I'm sure there are/have been others in the group but this is my two cents. Seems to me it would save people are new to this a lot of time. It would also be easier on those of us helping people to simply refer them the page.

I'm just getting started on the page and should be done in a week or two.

Cheers,

Jim

Thats a great site. It will really help me a lot if I try to tackle any of these on my own car. I am still trying to decide how much I want to try and tackle myself. Thanks.

Carl

Your'e welcome! There are lots of things I learn each time I do a car. This page is a synopsis of everything I've picked up. I plan on expanding this to a few pages with a heavy section on economical equipment.

Jim

jimmy z thanks for the info it will help me alot . i have floor pans that are getting some surface rust how should i tackle this i will not be doing the pans for a while was thinking of spraying por 15 than putting them in the basement till i am ready from katcarl1

Do not coat them with POR 15 before you install them. POR 15 is real hard to sand or grind back off. How long are you going to store them? Might want to just use the marine clean and metal ready on them the two steps that pickel the metal prior to coating with POR. for short term. If you are going to store them long term clean them up and paint them with a rattle can enamal paint that is easily sanded off again when you are ready to install them.

If your floor pans have the melt sheet garbage on top of them then it may be more than surface rust. Once the rust starts to spread under the melt sheet it is over for the floor pans. It is pretty easy to fab floor pans as I had to do this on mine. Getting the melt sheet off was accomplised by using a torch to warm it then scraping with... a scraper. Aircraft remover was used to zap any leftover residue.

I have grown a strong dislike for POR-15. a7dz is right, it is hard to sand or sandblast. The stuff comes off in a nice clean sheet when aircraft remover is applied though. If you apply it too thick or have a pool of it it cracks.

The reason for my dislike of it was discovered several months after application. I religiously used their metal prep after having sandblasted the metal them applied two coats (spray). It seems that you really have to put the stuff on thick or it will rust. (Try 4-5 coats min.) In their advertising the talk about a 1000 hour test under salt spray but look at the fine print. The thickness used for the test was a whopping 100mils!

I say spray some regular single stage (enamel) and follow up with body shutz. (a type of undercoating) Avoid the POOR15.

I'm sure the stuff works but when you live near the beach and visit it you get to find these things out the hard way.

If I had it to do again I'd use stainless for my floor pans. Getting paint to stick well to it takes some extra prep but at least you wouldn't have to worry about it.

The reason I said to not use POR 15 is because I assumed he was talking about new panels. Only because he talks about putting them in the basement.

Several of us up here in the northwest are using por 15 and we are all having great results. I have only had it bubble up in a pool state. And then it had to do with moisture. One of those things that make you go HUMM.

jimmy my pans do not have a coating i can wipe the rust with a rag but it does leave a rust stain after that is done i think i will write to zedding and ask charlie what to do next thanks for your input

Okay as I thought you were talking about new floor pans. I treat them with

Metal ready to stop the rust and then paint them with enamel paint. When you are ready to install them sand the paint off and have a go of it.

i did buy new floor pans but they did not have a coating on them bought them about 9month ago them toke them out of the box they came in .i should have left them in the box till i was ready to install them maybe they would have not from this surface rust

If it's just going to be light surface rust then Ospho them before use, sand and paint. You can get away with that.

Like I mentioned in another post I'd just fab them out of stainless. Have a sheet metal shop fab your frame rail extensions then butt or lap weld them.

Getting floor pans to fit perfectly against your cutout is next to impossible so epoxy prime then apply 3M's Fast'n Firm body caulking. It is ready to be painted in 30 min after that.

My 2c

Jim

Regarding the POR-15 rust issue... It would be interesting for someone with the product applied 2+yrs ago to strip a section of it off using stripper (not sanding) and see what's going on underneath. (Yes, I used their metal prep solution) It didn't seem to matter if I brushed it or sprayed it, there was still rust developing underneath. It took about two years for it to show. Mind you, these parts are constantly exposed to water, sometimes salt water.

Perhaps the double filtration system I use let me down when spraying it, that's plausible. But the brush?!

I really do like the abrasion resistance of the product though.