Rear Strut Removal

[owenk]

I am replacing the rear struts this weekend and my repair manual says to remove the transverse link spindle. I have removed the 2 nuts on each end but the lock bolt is stuck fast. My question is it possible to remove the strut with out removing the lock bolt? I have not given it a try yet because my sons have lost both of my 14 mm opened end wrenches that I need to remove the axel / U-joint so I have to run to town and purchase 2 new wrenches. (What I did to my dad is coming back to haunt me!)

Owen K

[2ManyZs]

First off, yes, you will need two 14mm wrenches to unbolt the u-joint flange. So might as well get them together before you go any further.

If you not planning on replacing the bushings on the control arm spindle, don't bother to take it apart as it is a PITA in most cases. If you are just wanting to replace the spring or the strut cartridge you do not have to remove the whole strut assembly to do this. Just unbolt the sway bar (if equipped), unbolt the u-joint flange, and unhook the brake line, and e-brake cable and remove the upper mounting nuts. You will be able to get the entire assembly to clear the fender with a little foot pressure to push down on the brake drum while pulling the strut housing clear of the fender. It will drop low enough that you will be able to pull the top of the strut clear and remove the upper mount and the spring/cartridge assembly.

BTW, you will have to unhook the e-brake cable from the mount on the control arm and from the brake cylinder assembly. You will only have to bleed the brakes when you re-assemble it, not a bad idea to bleed them once in a while anyways.

If you are planning on replacing the control arm spindle bushings, it will be much easier to do this with the entire control arm/strut assembly off the car. Just unbolt the inner control arm mounts and remove the whole thing. It is a lot easier to work on on a workbench than to try to do it on the car. You will be replacing the inner mount bushings anyways if that is your intention, so you will have everything on the bench you need to work on. The pinch bolt will require a bit of "persuasion" to remove. Just beat it on the nut end of the pin to remove, but be careful not to mess up the threads if you plan to re-use it.

You can find quite a few posts in the forum if you use the search function for stubborn spindle pin removal.

[XYZ]

2many is right on as always. I just went through this exercise this past weekend. It only takes about 20 mins. to drop the entire strut down and out. I've actually gone through this exercise working on it both ways. It's far easier to tip the strut assembly out than to mess with the da%# spindle pin. Your asking for trouble when you mess with than spindle pin. I had a hell of a time getting my spindle pins out and I had just messed with them a few months ago. I've gone through one spindle pin and two lock bolts so far banging them out either mushrooming the end of bolt, messing up the nut or bending the lock nut.

1. Disconnect the handbrake at the cotter pin behind the brake drum and remove the two 10mm screws that hold the mounting bracket to the strut tower.

2. Disconnect the brake line and plug that bugger good so it doesn't leak on everything. What a pain in the A** to have brake fluid on everything. I plugged the line, put a baggy around my brake line and hung it from the wheel well to catch any brake fluid and put some plastic wrap over each master cylinder chamber and rubber banded it good and tight to keep back pressure in the line to minimize leaking fluid.

3. Disconnect 4 bolts on transaxle.

4. Brace the wheel drum with something below if by yourself - block of wood or jack(if you've got another person they can hold it while it drops) so when you remove the three screws it won't drop on the concrete floor. The whole assembly will lower down and out and it's there for you to work on.

5. Reverse assembly after working on springs/struts. If your working by yourself it helps to get a jack under the strut assembly and jack the whole thing up into place slowly. You can guide it from above as you use a foot to operate your jack.

BTW, the axle bolts are 14mm. Better get your wrenches or you won't get very far.

Have fun.

[owenk]

I got the wrenches and have the strut outside the fender BUT someone put lock-tight :stupid: on the self locking nut on the top of the strut! This unfortunately is causing the strut rod to spin when I turn the nut even when braced with 2 of the 3 body mounting bolts. I have try vice grips on the rod but with it polished I cannot get a grip. In the morning I am going to try (with the spring compressors on) getting the strut retainer / seal nut to spin off. If this works I can get the spring off then get maybe get a better grip of on the rod. :rambo:

Owen K

[owenk]

:D :D I got up this am and could not get the strut retainer nut to move so I was figuring it was time to get the impact wrench that I knew I was going to need. While mulling over the cost it dawned on me that the top of the strut where the nut is attached may not be hardened. After confirming with a punch and a hammer I setup to drill out with five bits increasing in size to ~3/8" and five min later the job was done.

[2ManyZs]

First time I've seen a retaining nut that wouldn't come off. Most need a little "persuasion" with an impact at times but never one that had to be cut off. Looks like someone took the easy way out when they installed it and used a 1/2 inch drive impact to tighten it and run it down past the threads. Glad to see you did get it off after all. One down.........

[owenk]

Strut on the right came off with not problems. Back on the road and ready to go to Shast and get some ideas from people / cars on what I want to end up with.