New guy w/ questions

[lilspanisheddie]

My wife uncovered a 1971 240Z at a friends house that has been stored in a garage for at least the last 10 years. Freinds of hers have moved into their mothers house to help her in her old age. The car belongs to the next door neighbor and he has been storing it there because he didn't have room for it. Our friends want it out of the garage and told my wife to tell me to make an offer and come pick it up if I want it. The car was an automatic that was rebuilt with a 84/85 280 5 speed. Other than that it is all original. Because of this news I began searching the internet to find info and came across this great site.

My questions for you experts are:

1. What would be a good offer for this car? I am driving 2 hours to go see it. If it doesn't run, I will have to have it towed or transported to my house or mechanic. I think they mentioned $1000. There is a few small rust spots, but other than that I am not sure because I haven't seen it yet.

2. What should I look for besides rust in a car this age that has been parked for so long?

3. Any other useful advice regarding purchasing a car like this and how to use this forum to find info.

Thanks and I hope I can get my hands on a Z and become a contributing member of Zcar Club.

[ktm]

The biggest issue with these cars is rust. If you can get a car where the body is structurally sound and free from 'rot' rust (they all have some rust), you are 90% of the way to ownership. Mechanically these cars are rock solid and easy to maintain/get running.

Parts for these cars are relatively cheap and widely available, with the exception of some interior pieces (a crack free, original dash is $$$$$).

For a car that has been sitting so long, you are going to want to replace ALL of the fluids: differential oil, trany oil, engine oil, brake fluid, clutch fluid and gas. Replace the fuel filter. You may want to bleed the brakes and check the pads and rotors.

Honestly, I would just tow the car unless your friends will let you work on it at their place.

Chances are the bushings will need to be replaced as well if they were not replaced already.

Be prepared to drop at least another $1000+ within the first 6 months to get the safely streetable. Safely is the key word.

Still, as I said at the beginning, the biggest issue is rust.

The biggest ownership issue (for me at least) is exhaust leaks. These cars have poor aerodynamics and as a result, exhaust is pulled into the cabin through any crevice it can find. You'll spend hours looking for these crevices and sealing them up if your car has this problem.

[CoastGuardZ]

Howdy and welcome to the club! Where are you located?

KTM hit the high points and I can't stress safety enough... even if you get it running where it's kept at, there are a bunch of things that haven't been excercised in 10+ years (tires, u-joints... there's 6 of 'em!) If you have a virtually rust free car tow it the house and dive in to all the liquids and necessary safety items, brakes and the like. Then once you get her on the road and are able to enjoy your new find you can start to enjoy all the nuances of owning a classic Z... mmmm just love those fumes!

As far as what to look for, besides the rust (which is the main thing to look for) I would say completeness. Does she still have all the bit's and pieces or just a shell with mechanicals? You say the tranny's been swapped with a 280 5speed (not an 84-85 though, those were 300zx's) does it still have the dual SU carbs or does she have tripples now?

Seriously though, the Z is a very driveable classic... easy to work on and parts are relatively available. Lots of info and people ready to help here at the website.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

Nate

[lilspanisheddie]

The owner says it has the SU Carbs. Is that a good thing? I'll verify the tranny swap. Thank you both for responding so quickly, I am very excited about rebuilding my first project car. I am in Nashville, TN if there is any local help please let me know.

[Darrel]

Don't forget to replace all the rubber hoses. brake lines, fuel, fuel expansion tank hoses.

su round tops came stock. Very simple carbs to rebuild and adjust. Get the ztherapy.com video. For other tips search google for su carbs and you will get plenty of research materials and tips.

[beandip]

As was posted ahead of my 2cts. Change all the fluids ALL of them . brake fluid included . I would also change the rubber brake lines at each wheel. Clearing the old fluid could be a chore if it has turned to jelly. DO NOT START THE ENGINE with the old oil in the block . Remove the valve cover and pull the spark plugs . Pour fresh oil over the cam and components. put some engine oil or auto trans fluid , in each plug hole , about a table spoon full . DO NOT turn the engine over with the starter. Not yet , use a socket on the crankshaft pulley and turn the engine over and watch the valve to be SURE none are stuck and moving freely. When these engines are shut down , there are always two valves left open . This allows the two cylinders open to the atmosphere , and moisture. This can cause rust to form inside the cylinders , this is why the addition of oil in the plug holes. Also valve stems can rust those valves in place . Spinning the engine on the starter will cause the piston to strike the valve and bend it and or damage the piston. I would replace all hosed , heater and all . There is a heater hose under the dash connected to a control valve , just above the foot well on the passenger side. I would only put water in the radiator until you are sure there are no leaks. No rush with this. Before you drive the car be sure the brakes are in good order . Rust has been covered already , however pull the carpet on both sides of the trans tunnel and expose the floors . If they need to be replaced you are looking at about 1K each side. Look for rust through, under the battery tray and at the frame rail right there . Another costly replacement. Directly in front of and in back of the doors. Down low bubbles in the paint down low in these areas usually mean rust through of the ends of the rocker which is the frame of the car . This just what you are looking at for starters. The rust issues are things I mention just because you need to evaluate if you are going to come up with a value for the car. A 5 speed is not stock but is not a deterrent in my view. If the engine is original the serial number is located on the block on the passenger side below #6 spark plug and it will match the badge on the inner fender . SUs are good carbs , just watch for sticking floats at start up there are hoses coming out of the tops of the float bowl where you can watch for this . Also this is a good place to prime the carbs before starting the engine the first time, I use a large Hypodermic and squirt gas in through this overflow hose . If a float sticks open quickly tap the bowl with a screw driver handle usually this will dislodge it . Fresh gas will , many times , melt the varnish that is sticking the float down. If we can be of help , just ask . All the best Gary :classic: