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spindle pin lock bolt question


Dan S

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Most of the time....

Hi Gary:

I had tightened the large nut on the spindle pin puller down... pretty tight.. and the pin didn't move.

A friend with more arm power than me... cranked the nut down on the spindle pin puller - until the nut stripped!!.. Spindle pin didn't move...

Took the assembly (strut still connected to the lower transverse link)... to the shop and subjected it to 25 Ton's of pressing force... Spindle pin didn't move....

Applied HEAT... to the entire length of the spindle pin... LOTS OF HEAT... put it back in the Press.. and it finally pressed out...

Lesson Learned... if the spindle pin puller won't pull it out with "reasonable force" applied to the nut... stop.. apply LOTS OF HEAT...

Others that I have done, simply pulled out with no problems...

FWIW,

Carl B.

Carl yours is the first one I have heard of that the puller wouldn't remove. Was the nut and all thread both hardened material and was a bearing used also ? Of course if the pin was so rusted in place that it took much to pull it . I can see why it failed . LOL

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Carl yours is the first one I have heard of that the puller wouldn't remove. Was the nut and all thread both hardened material and was a bearing used also ? Of course if the pin was so rusted in place that it took much to pull it . I can see why it failed . LOL

Hi Gary:

I purchased the puller from the source here on the forum and as I understand it - everything is high strength/hardened steel .. and yes that included the thrust bearing.

FWIW,

Carl B.

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Hey guys...well got the job done and it was easy..no puller needed, just a couple of taps with the rubber mallet and lock bolt popped out and same with the spindle...

now the interesting part ....when I bought the car the guy told me he had just replaced all rearend suspension with "poly kit"..no problem he also gave me the rest of the kit to do front suspension etc. what he did, and this is why I originaly started this thread, is he replaced the lock bolt threaded end up(which to my understanding is wrong, correct?) and I also found 2 of the poly bushings crushed and split so they will have to be replaced..he also did the same on the other side(threaded end up).

Correct me if I wrong...but from what I read I think I'm right now....

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After you take the nut and washer off you should be able to use a small pin punch to get it out. You'll be driving it upwards from the bottom up. snipped...........

webdawg1

and

Carl,

You sure you want to stand by that statement about the spindle pin lock bolt? If you drive it "Down" that just wedges it tighter against the spindle pin.....

webdawg1

Hi webdawg1 (everyone):

Based on the fact that Dan S - specified the threaded end of his lock pin as being the "top"... and because he ask of the pin was removed from bottom up and out - - - or top (threaded end) down...

I get the distinct impression that his lock pin was installed with the threaded end - up - toward the car body. In that case he would NOT drive the pin "...upwards from the bottom up" as you suggest.

From your follow-on replies.. I get the impression that you have it fixed in your mind that all lock pins are always installed with the treaded end down.. toward the road. That has most certainly not been my experience - and based on Dan S's question it would seem to not be the case on his car.

If the treaded end is considered to be the top of the lock pin:

1. The pin - is wider at the bottom than the top

2. You would drive it out by applying pressure to the top of the pin

3. If you leave the nut even with the top of the treads - you can safely smack the nut with a brass hammer to dislodge the pin. That is simply a little easier than trying to align a drift with only the threaded end.

I'm pretty sure that Dan S understood what I was saying, so I'm sure the pin will come out.

I didn't feel that I was contradicting your input - so much as trying to make it clear to Dan S in his terms... and based on his input...... I did say "based on how you (Dan S) ask the question".

Sorry for any confusion..

Carl B.

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Carl, I completely understood what you were saying...maybe it was just the way I phrased it( canadian accent)...anyways,yes the threaded end was toward the body of the car both sides...and from research I understood the the threaded end was facing the ground, but not in my case....and knowing the pin was tapered I was concerned I might jam it stuck..

To me I would think the threaded end should face the ground since the taper is wider at the other end so in case of loss of nut the taper should keep it wedged in place( I hope ).

The only thing I really want is to make sure they are installed correctly..

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Carl,

I hear ya....a7dz and I have been talking back and forth over the last day or two regarding this (Threaded end Up) (Threaded end Down) thing....seems he (a7dz) has one pin installed facing Down & one facing Up. Bottom line tho in all this is that they are STILL a PAIN to get out..........(LOL)

Later......

webdawg1

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...snip... Depends on who put the pins back in. Standard practices say that you would put the Keepers in from the top and the nuts on the bottom. So, if the nut failed and came off, the pins would not fall out. ...snip...

The Underline identifies Murphy at work.

The Bold identifies Fail-Safe methods of maintenance.

E

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  • 4 months later...

I suppose as a follow-up to all concerned. In the future...should someone respond back to a question about the (Spindle Pin Locking Bolt) and which way it should it be driven out. I suppose the next question to be asked would be "So which way are they facing right now, threaded end Up or Down" and then follow up with "If facing down...Blah Blah Blah" or "If facing up...Blah Blah Blah"

Later...

webdawg1

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