rewiring the 240K

[khughes]

Hi Guys,

i have been thinking of completely stripping out the main body wiring harness in the 240k, and replacing it with a US universal kit such as this one (either 12 or 18 circuit):

http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/cat-universalharn.php

I am pretty proficiant with soldering etc, and i was going to just run my own wiring, but as it seems hard (and very $$$) to find a decent fuse box here in Aus (and i really can't be bothered trying to get an used fusebox rewired), i figured i should just pay the ~$500 and buy a kit and install it myself (certainly cheaper than hacking the main loom, screwing it up and ahving to pay a pro to fix it).

The only problems that i see could possibly be would be it being for LHD (which should simply be a case of re-routing), finding the right wires, and wiring in a dash dimmer (ADR?).

anyone see any other issues with doing this? it looks like it will also sort out issues with the regulator wiring etc. too.. plus the engine harness from teh RB25DET is used, so no engine functions are used anyways.

the kits seem to be very well recommended by the Z guys on hybridz.org

[khughes]

probably a good thing for me to note that i am planning on replacing all instrument guages with autometer ones anyway so most of my dash wiring requires work (i wonder if i can fit LED's while i am there ).

[240kconvertible]

I checked out the Rare spares site you directed me too, it has wiring harnesses there which are right hand drive. Is there any reason why you're going for a left one?

I'm trying to keep as many of my stock gauges as possible but with led's as well. I have a guy in China who can change the standard lights to led but I don't really want to get it done over there. I'll post details on this thread if I find anyone over here.

A mate who's doing all of my wiring ( it's all being replaced with new ) said that if your half intelligent, handy with a soldering iron and can read a wiring diagram you shouldn't have any problems with what your doing.

I have my harness in 4 section now,

the boot part,

from the firewall to the boot part,

under dash section,

inside engine bay section.

It all just clips together and comes apart quite easily (except for the two main harness clips they took me ages to get apart)

[khughes]

i didn't realise anyone in australia sold painless.. damn they are $$$ compared to the states though! might do a quick search for another verndor here in oz

[aarc240]

Hi Guys,

i have been thinking of completely stripping out the main body wiring harness in the 240k, and replacing it with a US universal kit such as this one (either 12 or 18 circuit):

http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/cat-universalharn.php

I am pretty proficiant with soldering etc, and i was going to just run my own wiring, but as it seems hard (and very $$$) to find a decent fuse box here in Aus (and i really can't be bothered trying to get an used fusebox rewired), i figured i should just pay the ~$500 and buy a kit and install it myself (certainly cheaper than hacking the main loom, screwing it up and ahving to pay a pro to fix it).

The only problems that i see could possibly be would be it being for LHD (which should simply be a case of re-routing), finding the right wires, and wiring in a dash dimmer (ADR?).

anyone see any other issues with doing this? it looks like it will also sort out issues with the regulator wiring etc. too.. plus the engine harness from teh RB25DET is used, so no engine functions are used anyways.

the kits seem to be very well recommended by the Z guys on hybridz.org

Having used several of these in rewiring 50's & 60's era lead sleds I can give you this much.

The quality is really tops but....

1. headlight wiring is 'conventional' with switched power to the light beam needed and common earth - not compatible with your C110 light/dip switch combo. Solutions are to use a GM product but then you have to fit that or use relays to run Datsun configuration for the switch with extra wiring.

2. indicator wiring is configured for a GM switch unless you special order

3. no provision is made for hazard flashers

4. alternator wiring has to be modified to suit Australian integrated regulator units (not hard)

5. LHD isn't an issue - just flop the harness over

6. you won't have ANY means of separating harness sections 'cause it's all wired from the fuse box out as continuous wires

Can't get a decent fuse box in Oz??

There are some pretty good choices available from Hella, Bosch and Narva.

Anyway, what's wrong with getting a 'shotgun method' unit from something like a VL Commodore or late model Nissan? Lots of fuses, all the relays you will need.

Just shorten the wires, solder join to the stubs and use heat shrink sleeving for insulation and reinforcing.

If you have doubts about soldering neatly, get some thin wall brass tube from your hobby shop.

Tin the inside (heat and flow solder through), tin the wires, fit a short sleeve of tube and 'sweat' the joint to flow the solder inside. Then use the heat shrink tube.

If your REALLY paranoid, use heat shrink that has low melting point glue on the inside for a totally environmentally sealed joint. Works for Antarctica!

For a source of wire with lots of colour code options get a harness or two from an 'up-market' version from Nissan (smashed 350z's are good). Cars that have lots of optional $^!# like power windows aircon etc are good.

Don't mix brands - they use different logic so colour coding gets real confusing.

Don't bother using the original harness, it was only just adequate in the first place and has since suffered from heat, air, ozone, oil, adhesive and God knows what else.

If you have or get a set of 'jewelers' screwdrivers you CAN remove the connectors from the housings. That means you CAN remove the original wires entirely. The original connectors clean up nicely with a slosh around in mild hydrochloric or oxalic acid (NOT nitric or sulphuric) and can then be reused with new wiring for a neat result.

When 'looming' either use top grade tape (Nitto) or go for convoluted tube jacketing.

hth!!

[khughes]

Thanks,

that is some great advice (as usual!), i was already a little cautious about the kits as it seems that they have no brake warning lights etc., i hadn't noticed that they missed out on the hazards too... i don't quite understand how the supposed best of the universal wiring looms, can miss out on important features like that (i presume the american's need hazards and failure lights too..)

I will pick up an R33 GTST body loom tomorrow (much cheaper at $100), and strip it down to what i need.. hopefully it will make pairing the engine loom to it very easy.

When you say mild hydrocloric acid, what sort of concentration are you talking? should i use some type of degreaser beforehand to remove any grease / dirt buildup as well?

can you fill me in on what the datsun configuration is for the headlights? i will probably need to modify this with the R33 loom as well i would imagine. i am really going to have to learn how to decipher wiring diagrams very quickly

Kent

[aarc240]

By all means use degreaser first followed by a water bath.

Mild hydrochloric acid:

start with 'spirits of salts' from any large hardware store (comes in a small black plastic bottle)

about half a cup of distilled or demineralised water in a plastic or glass container

add acid to water to approximately 20% by volume (ie 4 parts water plus 1 part acid)

btw NEVER add water to acid - it can boil up into a small vapour explosion (nasty!!)

after cleaning with acid give the parts a good long rinse in clean water

apologies for the delay - we were out playing in the dirt!

[aarc240]

Headlight wiring is pretty basic as long as you understand that things are 'upside down'!

Essentially power is applied through the fusible link to a dual relay and from there to the switches.

The switches ground the appropriate part the relay which then grounds either high or low beam element(s) as required.

Two more fusible links also supply power to the common terminal on the lamp(s).

The catch is the column switches. Do you have two switches on the right side of the column? If so, does the one closest to the dash switch the lights on/off plus do hi/lo beam and does the one closest to the s'wheel do indicators plus passing beam?

I assume you do.

If that is the case then you can't easily change the headlight operation to a more 'conventional' arrangement without losing some functionality.

The best answer is to duplicate the factory arrangement out to but not including the relay. Use that wiring to switch relays and use the relays to drive the headlights in a conventional manner with earthed common and power applied to the beam when needed.

This also allows you to put semi-sealed beam halogen headlamps in without frying wires.

Get familiar with wiring diagrams by breaking it down into logical sections. Nissan even broke it down into smaller chunks already! Page BE-5 in the FSM is just the light wiring.

If you are using C110 column with indicator switch plus combo switch I can help out with the wiring diagram for my modified harness (just the light bit as in BE-5).

[khughes]

yep, i have the 2 stalks, exactly as you mentioned. I am glad you brought this up, as i was planning to run semi-sealed beam's and was planning to upgrade the headlight wiring to something beefier anyways (but i hadn't started my research on it yet).

i would love a copy of your diagram (maybe post here for future ref?)

this is such a help!

[aarc240]

Assuming an attachment means the same thing on this site!

Dang, it worked!

[aarc240]

If you want more lights on the front (like me!) then it's pretty easy to add wiring that satisfies the fuzz.

Add a 25A relay for each pair of 100W lamps.

Supply one side of the contacts in each relay from a new fusible link (a second assy from another K works nicely and can be fitted alongside the original for a 'stock' look).

Run wires from the other side of the contacts to the front of the car and connect the lamps.

ok, we'll assume two driving lights plus two fog lights.

Working with the relay attached to the driving lights. Connect one side of the relay coil to hi beam at the output of the hi-beam relay. Run a wire from the other side of the coil back to a switch in the dash or console. Wire the other side of the switch to ground.

Repeat this for the second (fog light) relay but this time connect to the lo-beam.

You can leave the switches both on and the fogs will run with lo-beam but not with hi-beam, the driving lights will run with hi-beam but not with lo-beam.

Switches off will kill the appropriate lamps regardless of beam selected.

If you get a sticky cop who insists on only 6 white lights on the front use amber fogs and then modify the parking lamp circuit so that park is earthed THROUGH the driving lights. In other words, what should be an earth for the park lamp now connects to the supply side of the driving lamps.

When the driving lamps come on with hi-beam the park lamps turn off ('cause there is now 12V on both sides of the globe) only to magically turn back on when the driving lamps are switched off!

[aarc240]

I didn't think to explain this before.

If anyone wants to get a nice 'stock' look then a neat trick is to use that black steel cover stuffed in the corner behind the battery.

Add a second fusible link block on the outside alongside the original.

Inside, re-orient the regulator (if still in use) and chuck the original headlight relay.

Enough room can be made to fit relay mount bases from Ford Fairlanes to accomodate 6 small 'cube' relays for headlights, driving lights, fog lights and horn.

Do the wiring and looming neatly and even an expert won't detect that it isn't standard (until they lift that black housing!)