Greetings!

Thanks in advance for any intimate Z advice!

Friday I have an inspection set up for a 78 280z I'm planning to buy.

It will be my 3rd z - my first two were in the early 80s (and I vowed I'd have another!) It's half way across the United States, and a professional inspection company (AutomobileInspections.com) will be checking it out.

The company's knowledge is probably strong, but that's not the same as y'all who work on them, etc.

Here's what i know:

no accidents

2 owners

ac is fine

new tires

new clutch

garaged, warm weather since birth

new paint job

4-speed,with modified CAM

high performance exhaust

157,000 miles

$7980

what do I need to know, ask, have the guy check?

I'd rather be out $350 for an inspection, than $10K for car, shipping etc!

Thanks so much!

Judi

The issue is always rust.

Might be hard to check with new paint.

A tad expensive?

If rust is a issue, have your expert use a magnet with thin felt on the surface to prevent scratching. A fairly strong Magnet will not stick to or stick as well to bondo fiber and the like that is not metal. It is the familiar places of rust on a z that always is the place to check first. Around the rear wheel wells and near the mirror mounts just behind the front wheels at the door hingebottom base area. It seems that a poor restoration where rust is concerned can be felt by running your fingers gently as to not get cut under the entire front and rear wheel curve from front to rear if it feels like clean metal and not bondo your probably safe. Also note the rear wheel panel between the tire and bumper, some are lazy and do not configure the original shape or in other words bend it up and under on both rear sides paint it and some never notice. A proper restoration can be measured with relative accuracy by the viewing of a good z and the one your looking at. Hope this is helpful ! Just a little personal experience from a 30 year Z car lover collector. Its up for grabs but even a bad restoration of rust can be repaired properly if you want to go that route.

I agree, RUST! under the doors, the inner hatch panel (under the rubber)

BUT mainly find the rust under the car! the chassis.. if it is too rusty the car will not be rigid as it is supposed to be, and that rust is not obvious so many cn be caught when buying a car... go below always..

look into bay area, look at the color at the edges of the fenders from inside, and if possible, u can try unbolting som painted bolts to se the color under them!

check the response of the engine in various speeds weather if it is not mixing fuel/air proportionally carying of speed..

well u can check the dash "CLOCK"ROFL many have problems ith them (as I do):stupid:

good luck:)

My 78 clock worked when I bought the car 9 years ago and still does. I guess I'm just lucky. Besides rust, also check for the operation of the electrical components such as flashers, turn signals, high/low beams, lights in general, power antenna, heater/ac controls, etc. And also the engine driveability electricals i.e. cold start valve, thermotime switch, air regulator, fuel pressure regulator, etc. Hopefully, the inspector will know the nuances of the Z car.

Rust underneath the battery compartment must be checked. At that price the car better be really good. Rust should have been fixed, and be absent from the car.

Y'all are awesomely wonderful! I got more information and help than I even dreamed of. In fact, I got so many helpful tips that this morning I put the inspection on hold in order to ask the seller some other specific questions. I'm waiting for him to call back (or I'll call again tonight). Depending on those answers, I'll either cancel the whole thing or give the inspection a green light again.

My last z left me in 1985.....I SO SO SO want another one, and while I'm willing to PUT money into it, I don't want to POUR money into it. It will be a second car to baby, pamper and enjoy.

I'll wait if I have to. What is it about these cars that are so......hypnotic? I can't see anyone getting this way over a breadbox Honda or something.

I'll keep y'all posted. Thanks again so much!

z3crazy

judi

You might see if one of the guys or girls who chat on this board are near the car you are looking at buying, maybe one of them can take a look at for you for free. Most likely they would do it free, I know I would.

Thanks, Montezuma - you're a sweetie! It's in Texas. I've got a company on standby to set up an appointment (www.automobileinspections.com) that's quite intense and thorough for a $370 fee.

So I talked to him earlier today. Info from all the various questions I was advised to ask:

---Painted the car because there was some fading on the hood. It was a $2K paint job and he has the receipt.

---any other modifications beside the cam: upgraded/replaced exhaust system (to give it more power? - can't decipher my notes)

---original or rebuilt engine: original - VIN numbers match

---spec sheet on cam and is it a regrind: don't know about the spec sheet but it's not a regrind, it's new; between a street cam and a racing cam. so modified means in terms of "not the original" as opposed to "a different one that's been rebuilt etc"

---has all the receipts for the clutch, paint, cam, etc.

Also it turns out he knew the first owner. They went to school together and in their 20s, he taught the guy's wife tennis. Then they lost touch and when he went to buy this z (cause he had a 240 when he was in school), discovered it was his buddy selling it.

He's getting me the VIN number so I can run it through carfax.

I'm feeling pretty good about this - automobile inspections gets me the report, then if I want to go ahead, for an additional fee, they'll handle arranging with a transport service, negotiating the price of the car, transfer of title and money, and all those final details. They're a nation wide company with agents all over and though they do all years, models, makes, their specialty is classic cars - like 1955 - 1985 or something like that.

All inspectors' information goes into the central office, is reviewed by various managers, and all information goes into a centralized database so that for instance, my inspector has access to info from a guy in Oregon, Illinois, and Maine or whatever.

So I'm feeling pretty good about this. I don't expect any surprises from CarFax, but I'm all over someone negotiating the price for me since y'all - several of y'all (almost all y'all ) said it's too high.

I'll keep you posted. When I (or if I) buy it, I'll post a pic. I only hope there is some way I can return all the help I've been given!

Thanks so much!

z3crazy

judi

for almost $8,000 it should be almost cherry. Rust is your biggest problem. for that much money is should be rust free, straight, and shine so much that you need to put sun glasses on to look at it. look for rust under the wheel wells, under the battery box, the rear deck latch, the bottom of the hatch, the floor pan, the frame rails, spair tire hold,bottom of fenders and doors. check the bushings they will be worn and some might be missing. the dash will almost certianly be cracked, if its not then thats a great sign of a well maintained car... unless its a dash cap or a replacement dash. 150k miles on a Z engine is what we call breakin, so the engine should be great. Good luck and let us know if you get it. Welcome to the addiction.

Matt-

I didn't think you could Carfax these cars due to the short VIN.

I didn't think you could Carfax these cars due to the short VIN.

That's true. Carfax only works on '81 and newer.