distributor fluid

[280~Master]

David for Boogieman we need to apply most all term. NLA= No Longer Available.

Boogie be careful of the reverse flow containment meter it sometimes backs up and will cause major problems with your flux injector located under the dash. Happy Z-ing

[zbane]

Then of course, there's the Starter Fluid, not to be confused with Mid-way Fluid, or Nearly All Done Fluid. Finishing Fluid is a different matter, mainly used as a replacement for the Differential Matter, when that matters differently.

[zack_280]

Boogieman,

Sorry to beat up on you, but you did get the information you needed. None of us could resist. Welcome to the forum. It is a wealth of information. I have managed to replace most of the suspension and drivetrain and done some electrical work on my Z. This site was very helpful. Please do not be offended by our tongue-in-cheek remarks.

[sblake01]

How many jigawatts should the distributor produce? Serioulsy, Alan, you should disregard anything from the 7th post on. And welcome to the club. This is the first time I can recally us ever 'roasting' a new member but it's all in fun.

[280~Master]

Very true stephen. Alan if you need answers this is the place best on the net hands down. People here have seen it or done it so feel free to ask questions. Even if the question seems a little crazy someone here has probly been there done that. Good luck and happy Z-ing

[boogieman]

Nice to know I have some help. Well nexted prob... I have everyting back car starts then Idles down then off I have open idle screw and the air ratio screw (I call it) really car does same, will a bad AFM make this happen and if anything else help please. I have been working on 90-96z forever this one I just have to get into a lil more... I have take the hole thing apart almost (just like how I learned on my 300zx) but this one I have looked over the relays, fuse, etc. I like you guys check this stuff out some projects http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/oneninja/my_photos

[zbane]

Well, the AFM could affect the car like that, if it had a hole or tear somewhere in the rubber boot, thus letting air in where it isn't supposed to be. Go ahead and check it out, but let's work backwards for a minute.

1. this could be a fuel issue. How is your gas tank (full of crud/rust?)

When was your fuel filter last changed?

Do you have good fuel lines, properly attached?

Spark plugs good?

2. Distributer problems, maybe?

3. Actual gas pedal linkage problems-maybe something there is loose.

Point is, there are several possible problems. What have you checked out, or already done?

By the way, it's good to see you were'nt turned off by the odd answers to your previous question

[boogieman]

my pump, filter, gas tank, spark plugs, cap, rotor, spark wire,are new and my fuel line are cleaned out. I got the car for 400 and put all new parts on it but a AFM, and some other sensors like throttle. and the cold start is old. and Auxilary Air Regulator (AAR)is old Distributer itself is old my injetors and fuel rail are new... my rail is aftermarket do you think I need to adjust my fuel damp?

thanks for the help and I dont mind ppl playin around its all good.

[Grim]

sorry about the joking around and welcome. The guys here know just about everything there is to know and I'm sure will have the answer to your problem. I would check for air leaks like zbane mentioned. check around the throttle body and airflow meter especially the underside. I have had a few problems there. makes the car run real funky.

[TomoHawk]

Usually, the fuel pulse damper doesn't need adjusting. Your fuel pressure regulator doesn't have adjustments either; you should have noticed it when you did the fuel rail. Make sure the FPR has a good vacuum line to it, and check for air leaks after the AFM. That's all I can think of.

Blunker Lube??

Window grease??

What do you lube the fuel-injected door locks with?

[boogieman]

ok sounds good. I will look around and let you guys know what happens. Thanks glad I have you guys to help.