ignition to starter wiring problems

[bob m]

I recently had my 72Z dash reconditioned and replaced it. Now when I turn the ignition key to "start" the relay on the right side of the dash clicks but the starter does not engage. If I jump the selanoid with 12v the starter turns over fine. The car was converted from an automatic years ago. Is there a switch that interupts the ignition somewhere that might be breaking the line from the relay to the selanoid? Thanks for your ideas.

Bob M

[Arne]

Yup, there is an automatic safety interlock switch that would have to be bypassed, but (at least on '71s) it is down in the tunnel near the transmission. There should be a pair of unused wires (both black, I believe) that need to be connected together. On my car, these were on the right side of the tunnel, in the same bundle as the backup light switch wires.

But having the dash out shouldn't have affected this, as those wires are part of the engine compartment harness, and shouldn't have been disturbed during dash removal. I'd be more suspicious of the connections at the relay panel, but since my '71s don't have these relays I don't know any specifics.

[EScanlon]

I think the problem may be more in the Ignition Switch itself than anywhere else.

That clicking you are hearing is the Accessory Relay, which clicks on when power is applied to it via the Ignition Switch being in the RUN position. From what you posted, it may be that the Electric Ignition Switch (mounted behind the Steering Column Lock mechanism) has loosened up and the switch doesn't rotate far enough to allow the START contacts to actually make contact. Hence, no juice to the Starter.

To check if this is the case, is relatively simple. Remove the Steering Column Shroud (AKA Clamshell), then remove the electrical connection to the switch. That makes it easier to remove the switch from the lock.

Once the switch is off, re-connect the wiring to it and with a flat blade screwdriver turn the switch CLOCKWISE to the 3rd click stop. That should engage the starter so be ready for that.

As you do this, take a look at the brown bake-lite compared to the gray pot metal and see if they shift as you turn the slotted center piece. If it does AND your starter does not engage, unless you force the switch, that's your problem.

You can try crimping the metal down tighter onto the bakelite, which might work for a while, or try gluing it down with JB Weld or some other strong glue. The important thing is to remember that the internal contacts of the switch MAY be worn down below useable limits.

Datsun used the same switch in various models, other than the Z, so finding a replacement at a boneyard or even the dealer should not be a problem. Use your microfiche to find the part number and hit your parts counter guy with it and you'll have better luck.

FWIW

E

[Arne]

If the switch itself is the problem, no need to go to the boneyard and risk finding one little better than you already have. They are easily available new from the dealer, MSA or Black Dragon. And they are pretty affordable - Black Dragon (the only catalog I have with me at work) shows $19.95.