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madkaw

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Didn't mean to leave you out Enrique---the pic was taken by Gary when he went over and got in cat $hit for me LOL

I laughed till I cried when he told me about it. ROFL

So---no pics of the foglight switch are available?

Not even from KATS?

What do you think is up with the second toggle shown in the pic?

Thanks for the comments and the living library of knowledge you possess about these cars E and A.

Jim D.

"Zup"

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As always, you guys are a wealth of knowledge. I had never heard of the fog lamps. It always seemed a little weird to have the indent there with no apparent use. I have learned something new. My brain is full so maybe I can go home early from work. Carl

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So, the factory wiring behind the indent is to be used for fog lamps. Where does the wiring terminate? Are they terminated by the headlight wiring left/right in front of the radiator support? I have bullet connectors up there that are not being used.

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That great info Enrique. The reason I ask is that the PO had the old huge round fog lamps connected to a toggle switch that was placed in the dash indent. However, the power lines were run to them via wires that had been pulled up to the lamps. With this info, I can now get rid of the aftermarket wiring and use the factory wiring. Thanks!

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Randy:

Make sure you run low wattage lamps...i.e. not those 100 W each H-4 monsters.

If on the other hand you DO want the higher watt lamps, use the circuitry to power a Relay with it's own direct connection to the battery. Use only one of the connectors up front, and make sure you insulate the other pair.

Remember, you're dealing with 35+ year old wiring which wasn't a heavy gauge THEN, and is now old and corroded anywhere it's exposed to the atmosphere.

(Aside)

This has been mentioned time and time again, the circuitry in the Z was NOT designed with high current items in mind. Additionally, the wiring they used BACK THEN, was at best...BARELY adequate to the task...THEN. Add to that that almost every exposed piece of wire has corrosion not only in the exposed portion but also anywhere from 1/2 to a couple of inches of the INSULATED portion of the wire adjacent to the exposed part and you can see how problems can readily occur.

Where today you don't think anything of plugging in your power inverter/ amplifier/ accessory into the power outlet of your new vehicle at a whopping 10 amp (or more) max draw, that same 10 amps is the FUSED limit of 4 of the 10 fuses in the car. The other 6 are fused at 20 Amps, but NONE of the fuses nor the car's circuitry should be run at it's max amperage for an extended period of time. (Can you say---meltdown? And it HAS happened.)

So, I re-iterate, make sure your changes / corrections / additions to the car's electrical system take the system's age and oroginal design parameters into consideration.

FWIW

E

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Enrique,

thanks for the info. I know it was hard to tell from the pic for some folks ,but the hole looked exactly what you would have for another toggle switch. My year car 9/71 seems to have a lot of "transitional issues" because of the build date. The car was originally a CA car which might make a difference. I have read that 9/71 they had pockets for the seatbelts but mine does not. It's amazing how many differences there are in these cars!

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After listening to me and the local group (which includes, Enrique, beandip, a7dz and others) compare this stuff, my wife swears that no two 240Zs were built the same. LOL LOL

And I can attest from some things I've found with my 810 and my 280Z, that Datsun carried that theme through most of that decade!

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